Xander

Here in Holland the price for a liter of 95 octane petrol has past the 1.30 euro mark. LPG "only" costs 48 cents. I am thinking of converting the car to run on LPG. I will place a ringtank in place of the spare tire and run low pressure LPG injection. Now low pressure LPG injection works pretty wel but you can't run turbo pressure. Now I was thinking of using the LPG system for vacuum driving and injection petrol above 0 PSI absolute pressure. I do not know if this has been done before but I can't think of a reason why it would not work. When cruising I will be running on LPG and when I floor it it will automatically add the petrol. This is great for highway and low power driving costs and I don't have to throw a switch when I want to floor it and drive on petrol. The problems I see: I will have to use one bank for LPG and one bank for low impendance (with resistors). I don't know if I can use 6 injectors on one bank. I will have to use a dual fuel map which I have never done before.

I can actually drop the whole subframe including wiring harness, engine, drivetrain and wheels in less than 35 minutes. on a fiero that is . Unfortunately I have lots of experience with fiero's. They are absolutely horrible to work on. Everything is rusted in place and very hard to get to. And also the enginering is pretty bad. But I do love the looks of a nice fiero GT fastback. maybe swap a sr20det in there? oh, I'am sorry if this turns into a fiero thread. THe MR2 is a lot better car for shure. I just can't resist it if a fiero is mentioned.

still, it's good to see people are using the search function :

if you think the optical system is the culprit maybe you can try to modify the slot for cylinder one with a bit of tape. make it as long as the rest. I have used the 4 pin hei module to run the car and it worked well. So that is also an option. I am now running an multispark ignition box by mallory. When you get stuck like this it is often best to start from scratch again. Check everything is working right. Check the signal from the optical system. is it high when the slot is on the sensor or is high when the sensor is blocked. Try reversing the output to the coil. I am using a hall setup. I have three magnets spaced 120 deg apart embedded in my flywheel. The sensor is placed in the plate between the block and the gearbox. when the senor "sees" a magnet it grounds a pin. this pin is directly connected to the opto isolator inside the megasquirt. because the signal from the hall sensor is very clean I can connect it directly to the opto isolator. no puldown resistor required. I would imagine that the optical system in the megasquirt would work the same. If the output signal is high (voltage present on the output line) when a slot is pressent maybe you can trigger the opto isolator directly from that. I''ll have to look into this CAS system some more. I know that you have probably read the sticky that Moby wrote but I would like to point you attention to this part.

wattage has nothing to do with it. It doesn't matter how high or low the wattage is. A pullup or pulldown resitor only has a couple of milli amps running through it. If it is getting hot than you have wired it wrong. Wattage is amps times voltage. given that voltage is about 12 volt and the resistor you used was 1k ohm. you are only running 12 miliwatts through the resistor. power (wattage) is amps times voltage. 12 miliwatts times 12 volts is only 0.144 watts. so basically is doesn't matter what the wattage is on the resistor for pullup functioning. a tiny 1/4 watts 1k ohm resistor will work the same as a 25 watts 1k ohm resistor. you should also keep in mind that the 25 watts resistors that you used for injector dropping resistors are not 3k ohm. They are 3 ohm. that is a thousand times less resistance !!!. Maybe you got it wrong because afaik they don't even make 1k resitors at 25 watts.

Randy, the sensor in your picture looks more like the gs100701. according to the digikey sheet mp100701 is only 1 inch tall. If you did accidentaly get the gs100701 than it will now work. It will sens all ferous metal (ie your flywheel). did you benchtest the sensor? I used a dropping resistor with a LED to verify that the sensor worked as it should.

phil, I was just looking at your spark map. It's a shame that you are not using the full resolution of the 12x12 table. the top three lines have all the same falues. Don't forget that the meagsquirt interpolates (sp?) between the falues. So you could just put 18* at 250 and the put the line below at 140 kpa@ 19*. this will free up 4 lines for all the falues below 140 kpa. This part of the map is a lot harder to tune (driveabillity). I have always thought that 12x12 is to big for spark anyway. here's my table http://home.tiscali.nl/xworrell/sparktable.JPG

He is triggering it from three magnets embedded in the flywheel. It is still working great for me. Your hall sensor looks a lot better then mine that's for sure. Where did you get it. I made mine myself from a brass rod and a hall IC. I was thinking of relocating the hall sensor to somewhere above the starter. It would be easier to get to. good luck with your install.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/newparts.html near the bottom of the page. 440cc injectors for 39$ each!.

Maybe this is just a stupid idea but is it not possible to modify a v8 damper to fit the l28? Maybe make an adapter. The v8 dampers are dirt cheap. I have a stock damper on my car now. It used to have 3 puley on it (i think it was from a 280zx with AC) I cut of the front 2 pulley's. This leaves me with a very light but unbalanced damper . ps: I just noticed that the chevy V8 dampers

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ does not ship to international buyers. Can anyone order 5 for me? I can pay you via paypal or just send you dollars in an envelope. It's rather hard to get these parts cheap here in Holland.

My first name is Xander. pretty obvious really. the name Xander is not uncommon in the netherlands.

http://www.arcadepython.net/game/279/Drag-Racer-v3.html

That's your tires dude. nothing wrong with your car

slap a big turbo on it! it will definitely be less boring

shodan aikibudo almost nidan Kendo (should have done my exam almost two years ago )

I guess a screenshot of the datalog would be very helpfull in this case. or just upload a datalog and I could take a look at it. I like problems like this. I dont know exactly what my symptoms were but I think I had the same problem. It turned out that the TPS was not callibrated. It would run fine exept at low tps values.

where does the s130 end up in that list? great information. I have always wondered what the frontal area of the s30 was. I can input this data into the roaddyno software wich I use to make more accurate power curves.

the diy mentallity on hybridz is just amazing

finally someone has the balls to just go out and buy one of these units. I need to finish my engine build first and than I am probably gonna try one aswell.

gollum, I thought about that aswell. If you use the p90 head with the hartshaped combustion chamber and use flattop pistons that you get a really good quench area. Aspecially if you use the european flattops (they have a raised squichpad). This makes for a rather compact combustion chamber at TDC. But if you use the dished turbo pistons this whole idea is pretty much gone anyway. So I don't think that using a 2mm gasket is going to change much.

hey tony, did you ever get that pm I send ya? just wondering if you read your mails at Hybridz.

Hi rick, Have we met??? I have a techedge btw not a innovate. great to see another dutchman swapping Z engines.

just kidding. just wanted to use this one more often. hope you heal fast.

I recently got a suzuki sc100 GX (cervo) we call it suzy.