Xander

also check your firing order, 153624 Counterclockwise. I recently installed the plug leads in reversed order (clockwise) and the engine actually ran. Only the number 1 and 6 cylinder were timed correctly and the engine still ran!!! Not very well though

I have been gathering information on the WC T5 for a while now because I got myself one for my 305 engine (in a 260Z). And as far as I know only the T56 has a synchronized reverse. If you have trouble putting it your T5 in reverse try depressing the clutch and putting it in a forward gear and then putting it in reverse. Putting it in a forward gear wil stop the internals from turning. I do this on my nissan 5 speed too. I always go into reverse via fifth gear.

It's incredible that anytime I am contemplating a problem someone here on hybridz is a posting the exact question I was thinking of. This happened about three times now and always with specific questions like this. That's hybridz for ya . I was also going to try to run the ribbed side of the belt on the original pulley. I think 90 dollars is way to much for just a pulley. Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative like pressed steel instead of aluminum? Converting to a v belt is cheaper that a pulley like that.

I think you lucked out. If you leave the fork long then you will have a light pedal but long travel. And if you cut the fork short it will give you a heavier pedal but shorter travel between full engagement and full release. This is something you can play with to get the pedal feel that you want.

thanks for your reply, After a lot of searching I came across a 14 spline 10.5" diameter clutch disc made by advance adapters ADD-716104 (summitracing). This one is made to accommodate the v8 swaps in the S10 cars. This is exactly what I need. Now I still need to find myself a externally balanced flywheel for a 1 piece rear main seal. anyone? Ebay is probably my friend in this.

The problem with them is that they are only used to front wheel drive. And therefor have too limit the amount of torque the engine puts out. The only option left is power in the upper rpms. The statment about the F1 car is also pretty funny. I think a F1 team would love to be allowed a bigger dicplacement engine. Then they could get the rpms down and produce the same power plus better reliability. But the are limited to, what was it, 2.4 liters? personally I don't like high reving engines very much, but I must admit that my 1988 CRX with it's 1.6 liter engine was not slow. I am building a 305 SBC to put in my Z, but I also have big respect for the honda engines. It is just a different kind of animal.

bumpty bump. I have exactly the same issue with the tranny I just bought. It is pretty hard to find the right t5 here in holland. The tranny I bought is from a 2.8 v6 firebird. It has a 14 spline count on the input shaft. The bellhousing is from a corvette. I was looking for a decent diameter clutch disc that would fit the 14 spline input shaft and also came across the astro unit. It has a diameter 11" which is 1.75" more than the stocker. I am unsure of which flywheel to get. My tranny is going behind a '93 305 tbi engine out of a chevy van (L03). I believe the engine is internally ballanced. Does anyone know if this might work? I am learning a lot but I am quite new to the SBC scene. any help or pointers will be greatly appreciated. xander

voila... two more pictures in my album

not really. there is also a liquid fuel injection system around made by vialle. Lots of alfa romeo's where fitted with this system. This system is basicaly like a multi point fuel injection system. high pressure pump @450psi (in the tank), fuel regulator and injectors. A vapour injection system inject vapour and not liquid lpg. This system has no pump but instead uses the pressure in the tank to get the lpg to the engine. There are a couple of different systems out there. check this site for a couple of different vapour injection stategies (look under product) http://www.prins-lpg.com/en/index.html

how about running a dedicated lpg engine (13+ compression) and using a small fueltank with racegas. Then you would have the benifits of the cheap lpg, and you would still be able to use the racegas as a decent backup system. Last month I am helped a friend of mine to convert his 280zx to megasquirt (it is up and running fine). After this summer he is going to convert it to lpg vapour injection. He has a 70 liter ringtank in the spare tire location. I am very interested to see how the car will run on megasquirt and lpg. I am thinking of converting my lpg converter system in my datsun c31 laurel to injection too. It's always nice if someone else pays your tuition fee. . note: LPG stand for liquified petroleum gas. It is not straight propane. It is a mixture of propane and butane. The mixture is adjusted for winter/summer temperatures. (maybe this information is europe specific but I don't think so).

I think that a locker for the r200 would be a better choise. The r160 is not widely used on Z's AFAIK.

it is not that difficult to modify the e88 to accept a injection manifold. You have to drill and tap a couple of holes to mount the manifold. There is plenty of material on the e88 to do this. I did this to my e88 a couple of years ago and it worked just fine. It really is not that difficult. Just make sure you drill straight. I used a injection manifold gasket (one that cleared the injectors) and used it as a template to cut 6 little notches in the head. It can be done with a round file.

A good friend of mine is a proud woner of a very nice and VERY clean '92 honda CRX vtec. You could still read the factory stickers on the lower controle arms. And a light car like that is pretty quick. about 6.5 seconds to 100 km/h. He was braging about the car when I was still building my 260z l28et. He wanted to race me to see who would be faster. When I finally took him for a ride he just sat there and said "never mind". kill list: mr2 turbo z31 turbo z32 TT various honda's and I could stick with a Exige S. up until 200 km/h (damn those things can corner.) the best one was a porsche 911 S4. I was on the highway cruising at a leisurely 100 km/h (about 60 mph) when This 911 drove by me. I shifted to 3rd gear and pulled up behind him. He looked in his mirror. I heard him rev up the engine and away he went. I was already in 3rd gear at about 3000 rpm (right where the boost hits). He could not believe I was gaining on him. At about 200 km/h we had to brake. the porsche looked very composed and went back to 100 in the blink of an eye. luckely I anticipated the braking because I would have slammed right into him if I had not been on the brakes a couple of seconds before him. I guess I've got a little suspension and brake work to do .

mercedes?

a narrowband O2 sensor only operates above a certain temperature. A heated O2 sensor has 3 or 4 wires and can be place pretty much anywhere in the exhaust stream. A non heated one wire O2 sensor must be heated by the exhuast gasses to get to the operating temperature. Therefor it should be placed close to the engine. A wideband O2 sensor on the other hand only operates at a specific temperature. ( somewhere near 900 deg C). It has a internal heater which is computer controlled. A Wideband O2 sensor must not be placed to close to the engine. If it is heated above the operating temperature by the exhaust gasses it wil not give of the right signal. I know this from experience . My engine ran lean while the wideband O2 said everything was OK. this melted my sparkplugs which in turn destroyed two pistons.

Just a little note, MAP stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure. Not air pressure. It is called absolute pressure because it is referenced to a absolute vacuum. The 2.5 bar sensor inside the MS units is good to only 1.5 bar boost pressure in a turbo application. 1.5 bar boost + 1 bar atmosferic pressure is 2.5 bar sensor.

Tony, you da man! as always. frank tells me he didn't spend much yet (for himself) So take him to some more shops and make him spend, spend spend!

the OBX is very noisy. I have not measured it yet but I think the mating surface between the diff and ring gear is not exactly true. I think this could be the cause for the whining noise at cruising speed. When I pull the diff apart to replace the washers I will turn it down a little on a lathe and reshim it. The diff also ratles a lot. But this could be caused by the lose washers.

here is my run with the OBX. diff is 3.545 and I'm running intermediate tires. Click here to see Video I guess it works.

I have one installed in my 260Z. It works well allthough it is very noisy. I have driven the car on the road for about 1000 miles and one day of 1/8 mile racing on the track with very grippy intermediate rally tires. I'll try to post a movie soon. You should definitely replace the washers though. I took the dif apart after 500 miles to install the clips that hold the axles in place. the washers where worn away at the edges enough to fall out of the diff. A friend of mine is going to MSA next week (frank280zx). He'll be taking back some decent washers to replace mine.

Z-ya, I had this idea for a while too. I was going to use two TB's of a v6 pontiac fiero. These are almost an exact fit. The boltholes line up perfectly. They also come with the right TPS. The Idle air comtroller is a 4 pin stepper motor which can be controled with megasquirt II.

don't forget the blood and tears.