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neotech84

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Everything posted by neotech84

  1. WOW just invested 2 of the best hours of my life drooling over that.
  2. Hey they only way a JDM pre 75 Z would be a rust bucket is from sitting out side just like every other Z here in the states. If the car was registered and driven it would have to go through a very intense inspection process for wear and mechanical issues every couple of years. This is very costly and it adds up fast with taxes and parking fees ect..... I would think you should be fine if it hasn't sat for umpteen years.
  3. You can check injectors with a multimeter you should have 12v across each injector with the car on. Then turn it off and check their resistance, depending on the injector it should be around 10-12 ohms. You should get a good baseline after the first couple just look for any out of the base range. If any are out of spec. try swapping it out with a known good one. Some times a 9v battery can get one to cycle as well just don't hold it on the leads for a long time and cycle it a few times. Hope that helps.
  4. LOL I had a slight suspicion..... I am no LT1 specialist but have you checked for a stuck injector? This might also do better in the V8 section.
  5. Sitting in what car?? A VW beetle? or a toyota corolla? Sorry I couldn't help my self. We need a little more info to help you out. Sorry I am of no help.
  6. Can the motor run? Compression tests are best with a warm block and ALWAYS W.O.T. The key is consistency in the numbers. A drop like that might be rings or valves. A leak down test will tell you if your head is the problem. Edit: If you have put oil in the cylinder than you have a wet test. If you can run it to burn off the oil and do another compression test this is a dry test any BIG change in numbers would show rings
  7. Sweet! glad to hear that you have a project. Check out the project threads and start your own with LOTS of pics. Welcome once again. Enjoy yourself here at HBZ
  8. Thanks Ross for clarifying the name........ I didn't notice that till today. My name is Scott in case any one was wondering. Here are his pics from the bucket. Beautiful motor Cowl hood Roll cage Interior More interior Side view Front Drivers side As stated by Ross, there is a section on the left when you view a pic that says "Share this image" and under that the last option is IMG code. Just click that and paste it in any post. Very simple. Or the option is the same if you move your mouse over the pic in ALBUM view (Don't Click) it will be outlined and you can click the IMG Code option. Lover your car looking forward to seeing more of it! What is the chassis in the background of the pic with the cowl? Would like to see that car. Scott
  9. Just put a little oil on the top end if you are worried about the rings. Then crank it by HAND for a few turns with the plugs out. It should spin freely if its not seized. You should hear air going in and out. Then hook every thing back up and see where you are at with a compression test.
  10. As for posting pictures check out photobucket.com great site very easy they have a very easy layout. Sign up for the site, log in, in the middle of the screen there is a section for adding pictures from your computer. As far as posting them you can just copy the link and add it to your post. Very simple way to add pics. So with that said I look forward to seeing your Z. The R180 would "work" for you as long as the tires stay glued to the ground and you can control yourself. But once you start getting wheel hop then you should start looking at a R200. If you have any questions feel free to ask. PM if needed.
  11. Makes me wan to live in Oz........ A 300$ RB30 would be NICE!
  12. Wow what a great way to get my attention! Just hope we find out before this heads to the shed......
  13. Check out the Brakes wheels ect. forum here. Great place to figure out what you want to do. Also the Drivetrain forum has many diff swaps that you can use that R200 for. If you don't want to change much there are a few people just changing out the carrier. But why do you NEED stronger LCA's?? And if you give us an idea of what you want than we can give you more info. Welcome! hope to see some pics of your setup.
  14. The 9.5 is not bad but 10.5 is, the L series engines are prone to detonation at higher CR. There are lots of threads covering reasons behind this. Are you planning on EFI or Carb?
  15. Well first we need your goals........ then we can give some help. All L series heads are interchangeable it just depends on what you wan your end product to be. What makes you want to run a 9.5/10.5 CR?? It will take some work for you not to have detonation. If you are just looking for power why not a small turbo? If you want to keep it NA then head work be a must to get high power. You wont see much difference between the E88 and the N47 (a very small CR increase). With flat top pistons you can hit around 9.5 with either head. Check out the head thread. here. Do a little more searching and set some goals. Good reading. And Happy searching!
  16. whats the color code? Nice job!
  17. I would agree with getting a good clean shell for a swap....... Say you spend the 500$ for the RUST BUCKET, About a 1,000 for an average CLEAN shell. Then throw some money at the engine to get it running and your set! Maybe just over 2,000 bones and you have a great car in an easy 6 months. OR Get the RUST BUCKET for 500 spend another 300 on a decent welder, another 400 for some sheet metal and welding material, add LOTS of time! then you still need to get a good engine another 500.........ect. in 6 months you would be lucky to have the body straight. It adds up FAST!
  18. Welcome to HBZ I doubt the car is "rust free" do a search for some common rust spots and give it a good look over. I am willing to be the floor boards have a little cancer. As far as cost what are your goals??? Stock, V8, other engine, How about HP goals? If you give us a little more info that would help. For a budget give your self a good guesstimate on what you want, then triple it!
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