19762802+2

Another thing to think about is that the Straight six is a pretty well balanced motor compared to a V8 and the mounts should be just fine when idling/normal driving. During a hard launch is a different story though the power is delivered out the back of the car but the engine and drivetrain do twist during a hard launch just watch a video of a drag race where you can see the engine, the engines move a lot and some guys with high HP numbers twist the frame of the entire car. Just think of Newtons third law of motion for every reaction there is an equal and opposite reaction, When the internals of the engine spin they are going to cause the engine itself to turn in the opposite direction, Like standing on a platform that spins and trying to swing a bat, You will spin in the opposite direction that you swing. You may not have problems if you use rubber mounts and they are as solid as you suggest but if your going for a solid mount, it might not stand up to the forces it has to endure over time. I love what your doing though, I plan on just going NA 2jz or 1.5jz (1jz block with 2jz head) down the road, I can't wait to see how your Z turns out and I hope everything holds together for you as well.

The needles have the small black cover in the middle of them pull that off then you can just pop them off nothing special, Just make sure you don't bend anything such as the small spindle they mount on or the needle itself. When you go to put them on put them on its sort of tricky to get them to go back to zero you just have to pop them on at 160mph or Full rpm and let them bounce back till they stop and after they stop just push the needle to zero so that's where it bounces back. I hope that made sense. Good luck putting them in also you may have to pop the "glass" out of the 3 smaller gauges and you might have to glue them back in when you put them back together I can't remember for sure. If you haven't already bought the kit from MSA or whatever I have all the files for the gauges all you have to do is print them out yourself on whatever material you choose and cut them out. Let me know and I will upload them for you.

I have this saturday off if you need some help, I can bring a timing light it sounds like its running rough from the video also that sound, sounds a lot like a bad throw-out bearing, which are about $50 and you have to take the tranny off to put it on. Send me a text sometime. Is that what its doing? Nate

I have a L6 Auto Bellhousing sitting around if anyone is interested. Thanks for that Info Braap, If that works out that would be a nice alternative to the other Auto trans swaps for the L6 motor and if it didn't require machining that would be even more awesome.

Sounds like you were messing with the Fuel Injection relay, which would have an effect on your car running. They cost about $150 brand new, I have a spare I'm not sure that works and a brand new one that I haven't used. Send me a PM sometime and we can talk about it, before you get to the relay check the connections on the fuel pump and change the fuel filter and check everything else possible if you haven't already so that you don't have to make a purchase that doesn't fix anything. I know how that is so I can understand the frustration, You just have to be patient with Z's Also could you explain the relays more? Was it one big silver relay with two connectors on it that you were messing with or two seperate cylindrical relays with two prong connectors? I suggest downloading the FSM if you haven't already or searching the site whenever you can to see if the Info you need is already there. Good luck

Didn't do anything today but yesterday I installed one bumpsteer spacer and a eibach spring, Now just to find the time to do the rest and borrow a Lug removal tool from work to break off the bolts on the otherside so I can put the other Bumpsteer spacer on. Then a lot of saving and spending so when it warms up I can have a "finish the Z" marathon haha.

http://www.zccjdm.com/ http://zforceproductions.com/

Each shop would be different, I would go talk to some local shops and explain to them what has to be done and about the dreaded stub bolt that holds everything together. It could take a shop a day or a week depending on how good they are and if they are busy or not. My 2 cents would be to ask some other car guys who take their cars to shops if you know any and ask them which shop is reliable and won't screw you over or take a year to get it done and then go talk to some local shops and get some price/time estimates. Also when you find a shop make a written agreement with them when they will finish it and for how much and have them sign it so they can't screw you over and you have something to work with if they do.

I thought that statement wasn't about capitalization but about punctuation, such as "Let's eat Grandma." as opposed to "Let's eat, Grandma." Or this.

Did the v24 remind anyone else of this?

I just checked the Inventory and I think there is a 280zx or its a 280z and they don't know what they are talking about either way, Its going to be a Win win. I will definitely check it out tomorrow and let you know. I have a busy day tomorrow, Taking out the auto, putting in a flywheel, talking to the machinist to make a RT mount.

I think they did that so it would still be possible to take the "front end off" if need be, If they had molded in the headlight buckets the fenders would have had to come off as well if the front end ever got damaged. Also to the OP's post seeing that the front end was molded together and some other body work I'm betting that the Flares are Custom and everything else except the MSA front air dam and whale tail. EDIT: Nevermind about the idea on why they didn't mold it the rest of the way. The molded into the fender so you couldn't just remove it by unbolting the Headlight cover.

Well we have one here in Colorado springs, I have personally seen it. Maybe they got one because we are always breaking or dropping ours.

Sorry, I didn't notice that. I guess the later Z's were a bit different, I traced the diagram and it looks like the ground for the steering lock switch goes to the Door switch then to the ground and and it runs into a power line from the Hazard lights relay. So the steering lock switch is activated or turned off when the door is closed or opened. I would guess that the Steering lock switch just looks like a small relay under the dash. I think those wires go to the ignition relay. The only blue and red wire coming from the Ignition in the diagram goes to the Ignition relay.

No, The steering lock switch isn't Electrical its Mechanical, When you put the key in the lock position it releases a small metal block and when you turn the steering wheel into the right position the metal block slides into the steering column. When you turn the key from the lock position it slides the metal block back out and un locks your steering wheel.

You could go to a Local discount tire, They always have a torque tester and I'm sure if they are cool guys they would be happy to test it for you or let you do it.

I hope you probably shouldn't have broke anything, Nice pulls though.

Post a picture, And also what car you got it for, It would make a difference, since it could be for a 240z,260z,280z,280zx, etc.

I can check the local junkyard Thursday or see if they have any available brand new around here if your interested then I could ship it to you. Send me a PM if your interested, I need to go buy a seat for a Gran turismo 5 playseat I need to build anyways.

http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html They have a FSM for the 74 260z, I don't think its UK spec but it may help somewhat. There is this too. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/74_260Z_wiring.pdf

It's a hybridz members car their are a few pictures of it in one of the post pics of your cars thread I believe I have no idea which one.

http://www.octanemotorsports.com/p131608/84-86-Nissan-300ZX-2dr-2+2-Xenon-Urethane-Ground-Effects-Kit/product_info.html Are these what your looking for? Possibly you could see if they will sell just the side skirts?

There should be some small bolts holding the face plate onto the radio they are on the two brass switches, its sort of sandwiched on unbolt those bolts and everything should slide out backwards.

http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html They have the 77 FSM, Just look at the wiring diagram. Or you could use this. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf PS: It goes to the ignition relay.

You could buy one at the junkyard and get a rebuild kit and still be under $100.If you just ordered the MC new without the reservoirs and wired caps it would be at around $30. But I would just go with a junkyard one and rebuild it then you have the right size reservoirs and it will probably be about the same price. At my local pick and pull Brake MC's are $17