Richard Oben

If you have to move the shifter 3.5 inches your engine is way forward of where mine is. No idea why. PS I have the complete engine and trans from 04 GTO. Swapped shifters, oil pan and alternator to F body. But I made sure the GTO stuff for sure would not fit first. Just my experience on only one car, I am no expert. HTH, Richard.

I think you will need the F body to go through the factory hole. Just buy a shifter with an offset built in. Sort of Z shape, my PRO shifter came with 2 or three handles one offset to the rear. HTH, Richard.

Almost all of us keep the Z pedals. Swap the clutch master and it all works fine. We swapped the Datsun push rod from the Wilwood or Tilton. Doing this makes it a very simple part of the job. HTH, Richard.

I put 280Z stubs in, will they fail, no idea, but they are stronger than the 240z series one stuff that was there. Have the rest pretty tough already, so I felt if a stub breaks we can swap them for other stubs that will match the rest of the stuff. Which is: 930 CVs, 300m shafts and DSS inner flanges for the 8.8. The rear stubs are the only part of the car that is still Datsun, lol. JMHO, Richard.

Glad to know the DD AC mount works, I could not find anyone that had used it, just JCI. Nice job. Richard.

When you are done, there will be so much time on your hands, you won't know what to do. Good grief what a lot of work. If this had to be done by a pro, it will be a mid 6 figure bill. Great job. I seem to have said this before on the thread. Keep posting pictures, I hope I speak for others, we love to see the progress. Richard.

I have all poly, no big deal, it is not supposed to be a lexus. R

Almost too pretty to race again. Lots of work left but a stunning start. R

WOW, just WOW. Nice nice job.

Keeping a good thought for all of you out there. R

I used the complete CX Racing kit. ALL of it. There were no instructions but everything worked. There are a lot of little details that need to be attended to. I found it well worth the money, but it looks like based on other posts it only works for 6 speed cars. I can't say enough READ, READ, READ, this forum. Days and weeks of research will save you hours of time and tons of dollars. These LS swaps have been around a while and all the mistakes and triumphs have been made before. Sure there are multiple ways of doing anything but the stuff that works is used over and over again. HTH, Richard.

First suggestion is to take pump out and make sure it is compatible with your LSX power level. Pulling it will let you know for sure which is which. My thought is Larger line is supply, smaller is return. It appears there are two vents one to the engine eval and one to the filler. HTH, Richard.

I had to notch the mount a small amount for the shaft to clear. HTH, Richard.

Something is loose all those items get ignition/accessory power. Check all the main connections that feed the fuse box. Just guessing. Richard.

That is going to be fantastic looking. Great job on the waiting too. Richard.

Keep working, a rushed project will not be the way you want it. There are things to be done right and doing them takes patience. I rushed and some things are not how I would like them. Richard.

Yup, media blew out for months LOL. Nice work. Richard.

Get it in some sort of primer fast. Freshly sand blaster cars start to rust in hours not days. Don't touch it with bare hand salt and oil from it will speed up the rust process. On 09090 we put POR 15 right over the bare metal, Almost 10 years later it is still like the day we put it on. JMHO, Richard.

J Mortenson, I agree the set up we have is far from perfect, it is a compromise. It allowed us to build the car and then upgrade, as time went on. We had the 8.8. We chose the 280Z outers because we had them, we also had extra struts and we can always go to billet stubs if necessary. With whopping 205 wide tires though, I doubt we will need it; street car period. We basically built the entire rear strut from the adjustable control arm to disc brakes to strut top outside of the car and just swapped the whole thing into the car. If building a turbo LSx, for drag racing the breakage will be just be a matter of when not if. As to bolts: Mtnickels still has four bolts, we have four bolts so not a ton of difference in the mounting. We tried to do everything bolt on without having to go custom, weld this, machine that etc. PS we built a GTM from Factory Five and used the Porsche stuff on it with an LS and did not have issues. We were familiar with it and like it. The other options with different strut mounts, bearings, intrepid hubs, etc. all have upside and of course the down of cost and complexity. Great discussions though, from stock to way away from stock. Richard.

Not saying better or worse in any way. Just my opinion. 930 CV joints, inners and outers which are 28 spline with 300m axles from RBP manufacturing. The inners mate to an 8.8 with 28 spline rear end from a Lincoln with aluminum case. The outers mate using Z car depot 930 to Z hubs. We used 280Z stubs, which are much stouter than the 240Z stubs 28 spline also. LS1 power, 6 speed, 3.73 gears have not had any problems so for but not a lot of miles on the completed set up. More pics in the thread on Gen III and IV forums. HTH, Richard. PS we put rubber hose on the axle to keep the boots compressed.

I see a bit of the same issue I hope we all have, Tail happy even with wide tires. Nice Job, Nice Video. R

No expert, but cantilevering off of the mount is probably not a good idea. JCI has a mount that does the 4L60 and it ties into the floor. The CXR ties into the front mounts and into the tunnel. Keeping the stock mount may or may not be the answer it may be better to start from scratch. CXR on the left with a T56 JCI on the right with a 4L60E I hope. HTH, Richard.

Here are the pics of the progress. Sorry so few, there was a deadline to get it all done.