1969honda

I agree with Keith, most forums I've been apart of over the years involving cars and motorcycles go in cycles. It seems to coincide with holidays, tax returns and summer break. Forums seem to be busy in the fall and early spring with people having more time in the garage because of weather (warmer but still rainy/windy and overcast), a little extra cash from being couped up inside and the rush to play for summer. I know locally from about mid June thru October is weekend car club events and vacation time so people are out and about instead of in the garage. Then around Thanksgiving/Christmas they are all working on projects in the garage due to gifts and trying to avoid social events and cabin fever. It'll pick up again, it always does.

Jthom5147 do you have any pictures of how you adapted the pedal to the hydro booster? I have one sitting in the garage and as soon as it is installed I'll have a vacuum booster from my '71 that will be going up for sale/trade/donation.

Yeah, his was not fun to change belts or plugs at all.

Recently had a close friend get rid of his XC, main reason being parts costs for the simple usual things ie. belts, alternator, starter etc. Great cars but a real pain to work on, the engines are very tight under the hood so it'll feel like you are taking the whole thing apart for some simple maintenance

Cary, I'll double check the torque again with PTT as it sounded fairly low to me as well, the literature does clearly say per disc as your referenced. 400 TQ is a base LS1 with simple bolt-ons, I'll call again tomorrow. I also need to verify if their blank buttons use a "pot" or "step" type clutch cover. The eBay clutch covers are tempting, if I can get a good deal on a full clutch setup and a button flywheel from PTT I'll probably bite the bullet. I haven't seen anyone other than Clutch Masters offering 8.5" clutches, there's one QM 8.5" single disc on eBay currently I've been eyeing, but as mentioned I'm looking at an easy 600 tq. Also thanks for the noise warning.

I've just third party hosted some there but figured I better double check what I do have there.

That blows! I've used them for other forums as well, guess I better double check my albums now and double check that I still have images saved on my hard drives.

Nice progress Omar! Are you going to hit the cruise-in this weekend?

Bride Histrix look similar: https://www.ravspec.com/shop/histrix-bride-seat

Bride hystrix IIRC, I don't think they are made anymore though.

I think you are doing well at taking the feedback/reactions from everyone so far, just realize that there is no "best" or one size fits all answer for building a z on this forum. There is everything here from Ferrari replicas and concourse level restorations to strict bare bones minimalist race machines. Just take time to search the forum using Google search for different key terms of your build (engine, transmission, chassis reinforcement, etc..) and then you'll have a better understanding of the scope it takes to build a car capable of your power goals. You've brought up solid axle swaps a couple times which leads me to believe you have drag racing in mind, check out Nathanwa and Stony's builds. They are both very thorough and thought out builds with solid axles IIRC. There are a few different S13 subframe swaps to get the R200 rear end and more plentiful aftermarket goodies, there is one person from down under with a Holden IRS swap IIRC and a few different versions of the Ford IRS differentials being installed as well. Good luck with the build and don't get frustrated, nobody is out to bully you, they are all just giving you a crash course in what it takes and have seen a lot of builds never really get off the ground.

I'm not sure in that either, but where she said they aren't rated in any combination over 400TQ it's a no go in my situation anyways. Vicky said that anything over 400 the organic wears really fast and that they would recommend a ceramettalic compound of theirs. That compound should hold the heat better, engage smoother than other metallic compounds and allow for a small amount of slip.

Talked with Vicky from PTT a few moments ago, she informed me the organic discs are not recommended for anything above 400TQ, my v8 makes almost that in stock form. She did say however that they have a metallic that is much smoother engaging than their competition that they would recommend for dual use on the street for the same price as the organic discs. Vicky also quoted me a blank button 7.25" button for close to $160 and then I can get it drilled to what ever pattern I want locally. So if I do go their discs are between $250-360 depending on the thickness and number if discs I order and another $160 for a flywheel that I can mount to my stock flexplate. The other nice thing is they actually have the mounting hole dimensions and thickness of their flywheel buttons on the catalogue page so I can mock it up on CAD and see how things should line up.

Flexicoker, that's a good tip about the organic discs needing a 3-4 disc cover to account for the thicker disc material. I've been thinking 7.25" 2 disc with the .250" discs, but wondering if 3 wouldn't help with heat, and then using a tilton 6000 series release bearing that covers 5.5-8.5" clutches. The carbon would sure be a sweet setup, but I definitely don't have that kind of cash laying around

Thanks Jon, I'll definitely take your advice on the master cylinder if I commit to a 7.25".

Thanks JT1, that's one of my biggest concerns with the smaller clutch is having to choose between roasting the tires or stalling the engine at a stop light. We have a pretty big classic car show and parade every year about this time, but in the past 10 years or so they have really cracked down on any tires slipping or burnouts. It used to be you could get away with a back road street race and they'd pull you over, ask about your car and either give you a warning or a regular speeding ticket and tell you to get off the streets; now days they impound your car, cite you for exhibition of speed and wreckless driving.

The R200 from a later 260/280z will support you power, it's the axles, stub shafts, companion flanges, etc that will not. Research thru the FAQs and Drive Train and fabrication sections, you will see examples of solid axle cars, Subaru rear end component swaps, ford IRS build lists, complete S13s rear subframe swaps and a plethora of others. All of that said be prepared to pay to play, the S30 is an elegant and great looking chassis, but there is not a huge aftermarket support following like with a similar year American muscle car. *Edited for grammar

Cary thank you for the input! I do plan for mostly street driving, I've looked for an 8.5-9" but haven't seen much offered in those sizes. I know Clutch Masters have an 8.5 that a few z33/34 and one s130 car are using, but CM quoted me $2700 for a similar 8.5" setup. I can bring myself to see this as the "best" or most cost efficient solution. I haven't looked at anything smaller than the 7.25 for the reasons you mentioned, heat and lack of MOI on launch creating a stall and hard starting out from a stop. I hadn't really thought there mouse could be too bad, I've heard they can be rattly but I've never been around one, so I don't really have reference. I work with the old Detroit two stroke diesels and gm 6.2/6.5l engines on a daily basis and if it's anything like sitting in a humvee at idle I'll keep looking for a different solution. Hopefully a few more chime in with their experiences and I'll put together a few questions to PM Jon if he doesn't appear in this thread. I just want to make sure I figure out the most practical and effective solution for the engine and combo choices I've made. Again thank you for your input and sharing you experiences and observations.

Little background, I'm putting a vk56 in my 1971 S30 with T56 and a modified mustang irs, shooting for north of 600 RWHP. I was originally going to SC the car with an early Roush TVS but I've since decided TT is how I'm going to go. Car is purely intended to be a fun streets let make Camaros and mustangs cry play toy. I might take it to the strip at some point just for being numbers but I enjoy canyon drives and open roads, which are plentiful in the Rockies where I live. I have got the adapter plate all drawn up in SolidWorks for my T56 to VK56 bellhousing, and I'm planning on 0.500" steel similar to what the big companies offer for the SBC retrofit plates. I also have a 0.500" helicoiled aluminum version drawn up just to compare prices and weight. I'm going to see if I can get local printer to print off a flare pattern on a really thick card stock or get a cnc'd mdf/plastic plate made to verify all of my hole placements, and that it will actually center the transmission input shaft correctly to the crankshaft. This leads me to the reason for my question in the title, I'm contemplating clutches. From what I've seen my choices are a traditional gm 10.5" from McLeod/Monster/Spec/Mantic for $800-1400 without the flywheel r some of the snake twin plate from the and mfgs. However my flex plate has a step in it towards the outside edge which means I only have about 10.5" total diameter to mount a prayer plate: also the flex plate contains my CAS sensor pickup pattern on the edge, so a standard 10.5" clutch probably isn't going to fit. Clutch Masters apparently makes a flywheel and 8.5" race clutch for the 350/370z with the correct bolt pattern already drilled, but they want $2k+ for a clutch kit and they haven't confirmed the torque rating yet. I know of stock vk56 swapped S13s putting down 450+RWTQ on the dyno by 2700 RPM, and that's quiet a bit more than a VQ v6 but less than a Turbo vk56... (Seen dyno reports of an m56 at 7 psi over 600 RWTQ) I found out looking thru stuff on LS1tech last night that PowerTrain Technologies started making some 7.25" organic compound discs in .200" to .250" thickness that come in 2-3 disc packs. I know that the smaller clutches are more of an on/off switch, but the organics are supposed to be able to slip more than the standard sintered metal or ceramic clutches, and 3 plates would hold more heat than 2. PTT claims they are supposed to be compatible with all the big name brand standard 7.25" clutch covers and floaters as well. My thoughts right now are to have QM drill a 7.25" flywheel button in the pattern I need, and purchase a race team overstock new 7.25" clutch and some PTT organic discs. Average disc pack seems to be about $200, then $125-250 for a race clutch cover assembly and another $150-$250 for the button. It's still close to the regular high TQ LS1 clutch offerings in price but smaller, lighter and in my mind seems easier to adapt and mount. Am I crazy? Does anybody have any experience with the smaller diameter clutches that can chime in with recommendations? My last option I've read about is a few guys using the CD009 with about a 1" spacer and a 350z flywheel after taking the starter ring gear off, then turning the diameter a little. That's for a Nissan 1" x 23 or 24T input shaft and not a 1 5/32 x 26T input though and a stock vk56.

Looks like you could use a hook pile tape lowering line for that tether. Or find a Rigger and supply a case of beer...

I check it every day, sometimes multiple times. There is so much information on here if you are just willing to search and read.

Ordered the gold pickup box today from 440source.com, rep said it measures 1.75" tall by 3.5" wide on the side the port is on and 4" on the non port side. With the port it should be about 4" x 4". Once it gets here I've got a plan to cut the stock pickup and either tap or press fit a fitting in (and tack in place). Then I'll bend up a new 3/4" tube to attach the box and finish my sump baffles and a baffle plate across the top above the pickup.

...progress...

Check post #1251, he might have some answers for you on the v12 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50042-250-gto-owners-thread/page-63?do=findComment&comment=1192383

But then what will they do for a left hand thread!