1969honda

Just spit balling here but, if you are set on using the front Z control arms and tie rods, (and provided pushing the lower ball joint out farther doesn't totally screw up the suspension geometry) would it be possible to machine a steel adapter plate to mount on the stock Z lower control arm in place of the ball joint? Have one end machined with the stick four bolt pattern and the outboard end machined to accept screw in type ball joint? That would allow a really beefy, early 2" Chrysler ball joint (K727 IIRC) like a lot of domestic road course and circle track guys use? They can be found in almost every parts store for a decent price. Howe/Coleman/AFCO and several others all have offerings of that joint in different racing materials and configurations.

Sorry I got busy Wednesday night and didn't get a chance to take pictures. I'll try and get out there once kids are in bed tonight. JPNDave is intimately familiar with the various modern GM automatics, especially the 4L and 6L series transmissions. He's rebuilt more 4l series than he can count and a few 6l80/90s. He also installed and tuned his entire stroked 6.2L/6L80/242AMC drive train in a jk unlimited jeep he owns The computer is in the transmission pan itself on the 6L80/90 and the harness is part of the engine harness. TU/TD can be achieved with the proper resistors and a couple switches after flashing the computer to a Corvette tune. There are some good resources on LS1tech and a few other forums about how to achieve that function without the body control module most believe is required. Also tow/haul mode from what I've read can be used to store a totally different custom transmission tune as it is used to changed the shift points and line pressures from the factory anyways. Think street tune when normal and in tow/haul a revised race or drag. 08 Corvette Engine TCM Conns to do tap shifting.pdf

I have a complete 4wd 6L80 and an F-body T-56 minus the bellhousing currently in my garage, the 6l80 is significantly heavier and bigger. I'll see if I can get some photos tonight for you. Keep in mind the gear ratios and what rear gear you are running as well, first is 4.xxx on the 6l80.

Glad to see your still plugging away at this! I got sidetracked for the time being building up an ls1 swapped k5 Blazer for some family fun next spring.

Very nice execution on that intake!

Competition vent looks nice! Care to share your thoughts on the vendor you purchased it from and the quality? I think my build will require one down the road for venting and an extra inch or so of hood clearence.

Would this work for you? It's spendy at almost $50 http://www.intakehoses.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=R90B-400-425SR You could also check out https://www.siliconeintakes.com

I'd replace it. If finances are a concern but you want the best performance see if RC Engineering or another vendor can provide a new injector, then clean and flow match the whole lot to the same specs.

Thank you!

Do you have a link to the bruno controller you used? I'll thinking it's probably something similar to this but not 100% sure. http://m.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-48V-2000W-MAX-10-50V-40A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-/111851538617?hash=item1a0adf08b9%3Ag%3AIVcAAOSwXeJXfNDa&_trkparms=pageci%253Afcedf5c5-87ab-11e7-94c8-74dbd1802351%257Cparentrq%253A0cf38af515e0ab450ef6aa29ffee57dc%257Ciid%253A4

I like your thought process and vision of "it's just an old 1970s Z car, albeit shiny paint with flares" and all the surprise and magic under the deceivingly normal skin, it will definitely be a sleeper until messed with! I'm really toying with the idea of leaving the exterior of mine just the way it is, faded stock butterscotch colored paint and white accents along the rockers with 240z script and then making sure the engine bay and interior is all new and glossy with an updated interior. Why? sleeper, race car, camaro killer, etc...

Wow....

1 Large Hoodie - Royal Blue Zipcode 84325

If the LD28 is not readily listed by ARP, you can send them a single LD28 stud or bolt and they will measure it and compare it to all of their currently made studs to find a match. I had a friend recently do this and they figured out the VK56 in the Nissan Titan uses the same rod bolts as a BMW street bike. The Nissan vk56 isn't listed as having an off the shelf bolts, so he was expecting to pay a lot for custom bolts but instead he saved several hundred dollars and bought two packs of the BMW bolts. *Edited to fix grammar

Figured I'd share this here in case anyone had missed it. It looks like the site administrators are struggling with this issue of site traffic and keeping the server current and funded. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127731-hybridz-may-be-shutting-down/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1193898

That rotisserie and frame reach is ingenious! They definitely thought that design thru thuroughly with all the different ways to elevate, level and rotate the frame and chassis.

I just watched the last episode this morning (15). Now to get my funk on and start building my rotisserie...

You might be able to suspend the insurance while the vehicle is not in use however and save some money that way.

That's actually pretty cool, ultimate budget racepak dash!

I've now watched 4 episodes while cooking dinner for the kids....

You might try some of the pet urine treatment sprays as well.

Keith I agree with you 100%, it's nice have a car forum that stays "on topic", it's one of the main reasons I paid for a forum membership. I have 3 young boys (all under 12) at home that regularly come sit at the desk or on the couch next to me when I'm researching and surfing for ideas on my build. It's nice not even worry about what site I'm on and what images, and the resulting questions will pop up.

I guess it's a good thing this is the only group I regularly frequent for Datsun info then! I just figured when I first got my car this was the place all the Google searches seemed to link back to, so I signed up and haven't really browsed elsewhere. There's only so much time in the day. I like searching, finding and reading the experience and advise of others that are competent, more than just good pictures and fun chit chat. I like pictures and BS, but I'd rather learn or get some ideas on how to move forward rather than just BS most of the time.

Oh I thought about pestering you to weld that up! Someone else had the welder already out and sitting next to my bench that morning when I finished marking and drilling the pickup box. Once I get my trapdoors and finalize the layout I'll run over and let you burn them together. After your house is done I'll harass you to teach me too

Here is the 440source box that came in a week or so ago, great piece for only $15. It's a total of 4" by 3.5" with the -12 AN port. I ended up cutting off about 1" of the factory cast pickup and tapped it for a 1/2" NPT thread. I sprayed the top of the pickup box with some machinist blue, scribed an outline of what was left of the engine side of the cast pickup from above onto the new gold pickup box, and then drilled about a 7/8" hole in the top (I used a 3/4" carbide cutter and filled to fit). After that I installed a 1-1/2" long 1/2" NPT pipe nipple and slid the box down onto the nipple and leveled the standoff feet with the bottom plate flange. I had to trim the nipple about an 1/8" once it was all in and pickup height was set at just shy of 0.400" above the flange. When I measure my stock pickup height from the bottom plate flange and the depth of the stock lower sump I came up with pretty close too 7/16". It was hard to get exact with the bubble of screen welded on the stock pickup tube but, I should be really close to stock pickup height once I have the lower plate bolted in place though. I also cut the -12 AN port off the side of the box making it now 3" x 3.5" and welded it up with a piece of 1" bar stock. Next I used a cut off wheel on my die grinder and carefully cut the welds holding the screen so I could remove it and tacked the pickup box to the pipe nipple once it was squared and held level with the bottom plate flange. The screen was a little trickier to tack back in place because the box and screen were both only about .040" thick, and the welder I had access to was a big Miller 212 running .035" wire. It will do the job though and none of the gaps between the screen and box were bigger than the screen holes. I also took the hole pictured below and opened it up more than what is shown here, the block oil drain back hole empties directly above this, and without the steel lower pan it only had about 1/16-1/8' clearance from the bottom plate flange. I actually slotted it up the side vertically about 3/4" and drilled two drain holes in the ribbing you can see in the picture as well. The ribbing actually has two identical troughs on the top side, with no drains, about 3/8"-1/2" deep. The slot and drain holes where then filed/sanded and radius as much as possible to promote oil transfer to the sump. Next is to get some trap door baffles and build a few walls on the sides of the pickup box, at least one flap above and to the front of the pickup, and hopefully that will keep the majority of the oil in the sump surrounding the pickup.