1969honda

I would say check out 5523motorsports as well. They do a lot of Nissan performance oriented engine builds from all generations of Nissan engines. Nick is very well versed on the different Nissan l6 engines and has a real passion for being meticulous and thorough when it comes to engine builds. https://5523motorsports.com

Glad to hear the move went smoothly, that engine bay looks so sweet with the m122!

@@jpndave has also done some research and coated his own parts on a different LSx build he did for his JKU. He might chime in with some good info and personal experience. I've read a bit about it and TBCs definitely can help make power and increase longevity if your budget and goals are inline.

Looks good, if the aluminum is a tad too thick you can always lightly score the inside of the bend with a saw/cutoff/Dremel etc... to make the brake line thinner. Good luck!

I get a sound clip as well, keep The momentum up it's looking great!

I like the look of your machined pieces much better, not to mention the reduced leak points from welds and joints. The Phoenix contact box looks interesting, I'll have to look that one up out of curiosity. Sounds like the swith to megasquirt is going well and wiring is fairly well sorted if you only have 2-3 wires crossed! Good luck with the short time frame and schedule!

Nice progress!

Looking good Bimmota! Between you and yellowoctopus there's hope that I'll get my Nissan VK56 shoe horned in between my fenders at some point.

@rooger82 that's the one, just one piece. Planning on doing one when I get back on the z project, but if price and timing is right I'll bite instead of build.

Single piece carbon or fiberglass layup with integrated competition scoop...

I think some people have made the pocket flares actually look decent, but I'm not a huge fan. Couple threads down I found this:

Those look pretty good, I've been eyeing the SSWorx stuff for a while now.

SSWorx has some all metal flares with no screw pockets. They only had a car in the building stage on their site last I checked, but it looked better than the typical zg pocket screw/rivet flares IMHO.

You might get better answers on your degree wheel question in the Nissan L6 section. Progress is looking great, keep it up.

Forgot to ask, how is the clutch on the street? Which friction material did you choose? I've talked to PTT and Quartermasters about running a 7.25 with my vk56/T56 combo once the bellhousing adapter is sorted. PTT recommended their organic (thick and no as touchy on engagement) but it's not rated very high on torque. Both mfg didn't see the 7.25 lasting long or being great around town without going full carbon. Curious what your experience has been, sorry for the bombardment of questions, sitting in the Dr office waiting for my appointment so nothing else to do but cruise the interwebs.

Find a local 4x4 shop or club, someone will have a bender they can help you with for beer if you supply the metal. Any pictures of your surge tank setup? I've debated between just about every setup out there except a fuel cell, (full custom tank, vetteworks weld in kit, fox body tank, 98-02 F-body Camaro, etc.). The surge tank setup, even with adding the extra plumbing and an additional pump, seems to be the best solution if keeping the factory tank and running a FI v8. I just haven't seen a tank setup I'm crazy about yet. Thanks for the updates and keep the pictures come!

That looks really nice and simple, I like the 240z script the way it's placed in there as well. The discrete little touches like that are what really make a car feel personalized and different than all the others. Keep up the progress and the pictures!

Gotcha, hadn't read you were using a Haltech.

If you have a gen 3/4 LS1 go with a 6l80, they have amazing technology built into the tuning and shift calculations and will bolt right in. Pull the shifter from a Malibu/Cobalt SS/G8/Cadillac and flash the trans for a Corvette with the tu/td and enjoy best of both worlds. The 6l80 has the TCM built into the oil pan and does not require a seperate controller or bcm. @jpndave has a lot of personal experience with that setup and the other computer controlled GM autos.

Dang, I gave away a four speed to a guy in millville last summer. If needed I can try and track him down for you.

Nice! Brickhouse customs is supposed to be releasing a new aluminum (shallower) one piece oil pan sometime in the very near future. McKinney motor sports makes a few different very enticing options too

Not really, got side tracked with another project and life and military stuff. It's still a go, I've been working a little bit on some cad stuff with the transmission and bellhousing but nothing substantial.

Did you change balancers? Some aftermarket ones are larger in diameter than others? Or change engine mounts? If not then shim the mounts as suggested?

Thread is almost 7 years old....

The other thing you may look into (I'm still researching and learning chassis and suspension design) is something like the modular ball joint rings? Possibly hook the stock tension rods in to one side and make a new lower control arm off of the threaded stud? Use a something like below but have one side go to the stock control arm mount and then run the clevis side back to the tension rod? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-94000 The link below also has something similar that the miata guys use? http://www.kineticvehicles.com/ControlArms.html