1969honda

Awesome! Can't wait to see what you have come up with for mounts, oil pan, etc.

Try posting in the electrical section, might get more feedback there?

Take a look at Grannyknot's build thread, post#42 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122185-m-powered-z/page-3

Use the rotrex to feed a big turbo...

That's pretty sweet man. I never would have even thought to look at the GM hubs, looks nice and shiny.

I would leave something there to help with chassis flex. I'm not an engineer or chassis guru but if you are trying to get your seats to mount lower then replace them with a different section of rectangular tube or a piece of DOM. The big thing is to just make sure you maintain some form of support to help transfer the load of the seats to the floor pan/rails and keep the pans from flexing to much. Chassis twist and flex a lot more than you would think; without some form of bracing I think you will have more problems down the road by completely deleting them. Put a question up in the welding and fabrication section and you will probably get more answers from people in the know.

Call me crazy but I've been thinking about a pair of these SSworxs flares. The fiberglass/carbon flares are really nice but I think they look kind of Band-Aided on sometimes with the rivets and things, personal preference. I like the flared look don't get me wrong, not quite sure yet if I want to go full body kit either, but if I'm going to be doing rust repair and everything else why not weld some on and sling a little lead? http://m.ebay.com/itm/182121720845?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&_mwBanner=1

Glad to see you're making some progress!

Nice score!

I'm still shooting for 650ish, just got word thought that a Y62 patrol put down 700rwhp out of a Garrett 72mm GT4094R on 18-19PSI on a stock motor in the UAE. So yeah things could get crazy pretty fast!

I'm actually pretty excited about it as well, been looking into twins in the GT3582 range or a single 76mm setup. If I've done my math right I should be moving about 76.7lbs/min of air given 85% VE, 20PSI of boost and 6500 RPM redline. I'm hoping to get things figured out to where it'll still have a good punch without a ton of lag but let the car start moving before it just spins the tires to no end. We'll see how it goes. Speaking of that TIG welder I've already drawn up the pieces to adapt an LS1 cable operated throttle body to the aluminum manifold I have, thinking about the Holley Sniper 92mm or 102mm. They look fairly simple and for about $175 they are definitely a good price compared to a Nick Williams or FAST piece, just haven't seen any real feedback on them, one comment on LS1Tech was that they mirrored some of the cheaper Chinese pieces for quality. I'll see once I have it all figured out, had to spend a little of my Z money on other ventures today so I'm back to saving mode again, hopefully my buddy that's coming by later this week will have good news on wiring my garage up for 240v. That would be a huge step forward for me and really open up the possibilities of getting some progress made on my chassis I'm also waiting to here back from a shop that has a Diamond racing piston set all designed and proofed in a formula drift car at 9000+ RPM. Engine makes 800hp NA and is taking a 400 hit of NOS on top of that in the same block I am using. They are running a JE piston this year according to a promotional video, but the last couple years it's been diamond racing pistons and the machinist really likes the way they seal and hold up better than the JEs. He said they are modifying LS1 6.125" rods for a better rod to stroke ratio, using a stock stroke billet crankshaft, and a 3.875" bore for better ring selection in their setup. The cams, heads and timing chain setup are really involved though, cams are a custom JWT set that I could get for the same price they are paying pretty easily ($1200), but the whole timing chain setup is a Menard's design with fixed tensioners, custom guides and some other tweaks. Talking with a former Nissan racing team development guy none of the valve train would be good for a street car that sees varied RPM and isn't at WOT all the time, there's no real way to react to sudden rpm changes and chain slack in their setup.

Either one will be a blast! I think the z32 had been done but not 100% sure. If you get the ARP head studs please share part numbers, also the Stillen two piece aluminum intake manifolds are still available thru stillen if you contact them directly. They are quite a bit shorter than the OEM manifold. I've changed directions a little bit on my project, still going boosted at some point but for now I'm going to focus on building up a forged bottom end. I'll adapt an LS1 cable throttle body to the stillen manifold and plan for turbos or centrifugal supercharger down the road. Machining costs for the TVS adapter plate and manifold modifications was more than a twin turbo setup or centrifugal would have cost by the time I fabbed up idlers, snout support, adapter plate, etc... Also post some pictures of the new flywheel! Are you still using the Collins adapter, Z1 clutch disc and pressure plate setup or did you change when you ordered the flywheel?

Either one will be a blast! I think the z32 had been done but not 100% sure. If you get the ARP head studs please share part numbers, also the Stillen two piece aluminum intake manifolds are still available thru stillen if you contact them directly, they are quite a bit shorter than the OEM manifold. I've changed directions a little bit on my project, still going boosted at some point but for me I'm going to focus on building up a forged bottom end, adapt an LS1 cable throttle body to the stillen manifold and plan for turbos or centrifugal supercharger down the road. Machining costs for the TVS adapter plate and manifold modifications was more than a twin turbo setup or centrifugal would have cost by the time I fabbed up idlers, snout support, adapter plate, etc...

I've heard really good things about lizard skin

That looks pretty nice!

My mistake, you are right about the McKinney kit being for the S30. I actually talked with someone earlier this week that contacted brickhouse about the SPEC flywheel. He was told expect about $450 for the custom flywheel by itself and I believe he ordered one for a vk56 into an m45 he is doing. Brickhouse has been active lately on stanceworks. http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50721&page=4

Decided to change routes a little with the engine, TVS is up for sale and I'm going to go turbo. The hassle of getting an adapter plate machined, ensuring the manifold mounting surface has good parallelism with the head sealing surface, tensioner bracket, idler pulley placement, etc.... was just to much of an expense and headache. I should be able to sell the TVS, build a simple intake plate to adapt a turbo intake pipe to the manifold, purchase a turbo and manifolds for less than what the machining and parts was adding up to. Local adds have an BW S475, S471 and a Turbonetics 76mm for less than 1/2 of what I should get for the TVS. Early reports are that the inexpensive ebay SS shorty headers fit quite well, might also have a line on some JBA shorties with V-bands already added on. Once the TVS is sold I'll get some other parts coming, or fund the machining and parts to get rods and pistons on the way, or buy a transmission and adapter so that I can get things mounted in the car.... time will tell.

Dave is spot-on on everything he mentioned. I've been thinking about you today after reading about this last night, if you really want a Nissan just find an old hardbody, they were just about as reliable as the old 22re Toyota's

Can't wait to get home now and download the files, thanks! Gotta love McMaster-Carr for great pricing and hardware selection

I have Solid Works 2014, but I can do .STP, .igs, .dxf, etc...

That's pretty slick calZ, if you're willing to share models or sell a kit I'd be interested. Please PM me any details if you are willing to share

The vk45 and vk50 pans will not fit the vk56 block I did just hear today though that someone spoke with McKinney Motorsports and they are about to release a new vk56 engine swap kit

Or the Nissan quest alternator, they are 130 amp and used in a few other Nissan's as an upgrade

I'm not opposed to fixed if it's comfortable, but most likely a recliner. My car is ment to be a street car when it's done, there is not really any racing organizations up here around Logan, and going in a straight line doesn't appeal as much as canyon carving or road coursing to me. I plan on some form of a cage, and definitely stitch weld the body, frame rail reinforcements and strut tower bars. So I'll need to figure out seats before I get to the cage building stage, but that's a ways down the road. Need to finish piecing the drivetrain together first so I know what needs to be done for mounts, ride height, etc.

Thanks, I'm a mechanic in the Utah Army National Guard. That's a great idea, it would be nice to sit in a few and see what is going to actually work for me before buying. I'm kind of picky about lumbar support and the angle my legs sit at from the back to the front of the seat.