vashonz

I talked to someone today about having him do the rust repair and body work on my 240z. I want to do this myself, but am moving to Guam on saturday so am a little short on time. What I would have him do is: -Replace floor pans -Repair rusted dogleg on driver side -Repair rusted panel above the taillight -Smooth the bumper mounts -Shave the side markers and Antenna hole. -Repair small rust bubbles -Install fender flairs (cut and weld stock fenders) -Strip the paint off the car. -Paint the car (color and clear) He looked at the car today and estimated it would be $4500 for all that. Everyone I've talked to says he does REALLY good work, and the cars he does come out nice. He mentioned fender flairs and talked about cutting the outer fender and welding it to the inner fender. So I trust him to do a good job. What I'm worried about is that it seems like ALOT of money to spend. I was (tenatively) planning on getting the AZC brakes, coilovers, bigger wheels and tires. Also, what color should I paint it? If you send links to your car (or one that looks good) that would be awesome.

I think the SDS website talks about sequential VS batch fire. Apparently even most of the sequential fire systems switch to batch above ~3000 rpm.

I don't read japanese at all. Does the lemans VRH50A V8 have 14:1 compression?

The LC-1 has 2 analog outputs that can be programmed as the input to the ECU (SDS for me, MS for someone else). When I originally built the downpipe I put 2 bungs in, one for a NBO2 for the ecu and the other for a wideband when I put it on the dyno. Now I'm using one for the wideband sensor on the car, and keeping the other one plugged unless I go to the dyno.

I think you mean "Outboard bead seat" to "Inboard bead seat"

Looks good, I really want one of those.

Ebay 12"x24"x3" with 3" in and out. Used cheap ebay aluminum mandrel bends (6 for $77). The mandrels did not look the best, but the material was nice, it welded REALLY smooth once I took the annodizing off.

I think someone used the change in AFR as proof of an increase in flow of an aftermarket intake manifold. I think it was either lonewolf or speed shop thagard (one of them is james I think).

The neck was a transition piece I got from the local NAPA (they actually have some steel mandrel bends there too). The bov fits nicely between the TPS and the fenderwell. If I still had the stock coils this location would not work. The TB will actually be on the right side of the pipe, I thought about putting the BOV opposite the throttle, but there would have been an interference problem with the radiator.

Just welded up a new intake pipe to go from the IC to the throttle body. I still need to weld the flange for the bypass/BOV. I don't know if I should do the extra plumbing to recirc or just vent to atmosphere. Either will work fine because the AFM has been replaced with a MAP.

I think its funny how one guy on there talks about the engine from the Z.

Same here. I WANT IT NOW.

From the title I thought it was going to involve police with special dogs.

http://www.spyderracing.com/photos/Johnny04R1-14.jpg You think it helps against laser radar?

I saw a skyline today that had vinyl graphics on it that was chrome-ish. It looked very nice, I think that might be a better option for only doing smaller areas. It might not be as smooth and perfect because it had a little more orange peel to it.

There was one episode of the simpsons where Homer added speed holes to a car using a pitch fork (I think it was flander's car). But those were in the front.

I found a really nice front and side photo with dimensions on it on some norwegan website, I don't remember where it was, but I did save the photo.