Exposed

I'll ask the shop to check the gap on my plugs, coils are less than a year old, I double checked them before I sent the car to the tuner but I'll ask them to check this as well. They're thinking its the wiring pin out, upon searching for some answers I think I may have found something. I purchased my harness from wiring specialties roughly two years ago, I found a video on youtube from wiring specialties titled "repinning Jz connector" that was posted a year ago. I contacted them and they said that the video applys to "the first couple of harnesses had ignition pin off by 1 pin. If the car ran, you are all good." I figure it doesnt hurt to check. I also asked the tuner about just switching out for smart coils, he recommended finding whats causing the issue before switching them out though. Appreciate the speedy response Geno. @Geno750 where did you get your AEM coil plate from?

so currently have the car at the shop that's going to be tuning it, has anyone run into not enough/ low spark before?

awesome thanks for all the input guys

any pictures of the front. the rear look like they fit really well.

Do you think you'll be picking a set up?

another issue I have is how simple they look to make. It literally only looks like they cut a piece of sheet metal and folded it over the wheel well. I'll most likely make my own if I don't find something different. Have you thought about just cutting your stock fender flare and leaving it connected at the bottom and extending it "x" amount of inches with filler sheet metal? Something like this,

I've seen there site when I was looking into metal fenders but never saw them on any car other than the one on site. Curious to see if anyones used it.

great job on the body work, really enjoy seeing flares blended into the body of the car. Looking to do something similar in the near future, any words of wisdom? Things to avoid or something you might do differently if doing another Z?

255/50/r16, R888

thread a bit old but I'll toss my instagram build thread on here. "alex240z"

I'll snap some pictures of the mounts later today, I'll warn you now they aren't pretty but they're working fine at the moment.

I personally haven't driven a car with a R154 in it but i'm interested to see what everyone has to say. For the shifter relocation on the CD009 you can probably fab something up if your interested in saving some cash if you decide to with the CD009. Ill try to dig up an old thread I found where they built there own shifter relocation for the CD009.

completely agree that technique is very important, I'm no welder but from what I've read the wrong electrode choice can affect your arc.

whenever I weld 16gauge 304SS I get this grey discoloration. I'm thinking I'm moving to slow and seems like my heat is to high based off this chart.

heres a good read if you haven't seen this site before, also has very helpful youtube videos. http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-welding.html

@Geno750 That looks really good, do you find its easier to get good colouring and a good bead on thicker peices? What are your settings and what type of electrode are you using?

its shiny silver. I'll snap a couple pictures of it and toss them up.

what type of material are you going to be working on the most? Have you already thought about which electrodes youll be using?

Will hopefully be getting the car tuned in the next couple weeks just need to finish connecting some sensors, does anyone see anything that should be added to the list below? -Full of fuel -check for leaks -check tire condition -battery is charged -fresh oil and photo from one of last years meets.

I found him through instagram as well, as for tires I grabbed a pair of R888.....lol. I had been bouncing back and forth between them and a BFgoodrich but ended up going with the Toyo's because a local shop had rebates on them. From speaking to some of the local guys here they don't seem horrible, fingers crossed they perform well.

great suggestion, at the time I just did it quick and dirty so I could drive.

yes they are the stock mounting points as far as im aware, unless the PO switched something up.

Long story short I have a tig that I've been practicing on for a little bit but cant seem to produce proper coloured welds, curious if anyone have any input. I'm welding up a SS304 3" round tubing (16ga), using 2% lanthanted electrode with 65 Amps, using a #12 cup with my argon flow set at about 20+/-. I dont have the tools to purge the inside of the tubing so I'm coating it in Solar Flux "b". My issue is whenever I weld the stainless it 95% of the time turns a grey color, after I'm done welding I leave the tig torch hovering over the welded area so it stays cover in argon. Is this just to much heat? I've tried lowering the amps but I seem to get the same results. I've attached a picture of one of my welds where I joined 16ga SS tubing welded to SS exhaust flange.

not the best pictures but i have about 3in of room of either side. the front of the transmission is about 4inch past the firewall. with the serial nine shifter it lines up almost perfectly. Im running an R200 with 3.54 diff, not to sure which one though was put in by the PO

I know where your coming from, I've been trying to prepare myself to cut the fenders up. I'm probably going about it all wrong though, I haven't committed and buying wheels like this.... That's also why I wanted to try making some metal flares and keeping it looking stockish