Warren

You may not be seeing them, but they're there (using MS IE 6.0). I could list a bunch of them that I see every time a page loads, but it wouldn't do any good to do that. I'm looking at one on the bottom of the page that says "Calculate the Exact Name of Your Perfect Lover"...and right next to it, there is one that says "Block Pop-ups with Google"...go figure...irony? I doubt it. Especially since the one at the top of the page says "DO NOT CLICK THIS UNLESS YOUR ARE 18", and the advertiser is Mobularity.com/usLuvCompatibility. Perhaps we're just being too nice with the posts...hahahahah Warren

Reminds me of the redneck version... C M, M R ducks, M R not, O S A R, C M wangs, L I B, M R ducks. HAHA Anyway, The Einstein quote rings a bell in my ear... remember, I AM a locksmith. Warren

All you need from Ford is the bucket backs themselves (the part that the screws go through that hold the light onto the car) and the associated wiring harnesses and grommets, other than the lights. The rest is hand fabricated, trimmed, or otherwise beat into shape. A little imagination and some pondering time will come in handy and go a LONG way as far as trimming the black trim around the lights. I used a cutoff wheel on a die grinder and lots of trial and error. BTW, the rear panel (white sheetmetal in the video) was the side of a Ford Aerostar cargo van, where the rear side window would go if it weren't a cargo van. Told ya it wasn't easy. Also, just to keep in the true "HYBRID Z" spirit, it should be noted that my car has a Datsun body & engine, a GM transmission, Ford rear taillights and Hyundai side markers, not to mention NUMEROUS aftermarket parts that weren't designed for a Z and several parts from other Z or ZX models. Warren

Yes Bob, they are actual parts from Ford...the buckets are modified by adding approximately 4" of steel to the outside edge and made to mount flush with the rear panel. You've already messed up if you cut off one of the mounting bolts since they're required to mount the light in the bucket and make adjustments with washers as necessary. You could still use it, but it might rattle, unless you put the screw part back on. Sorry about not getting back to you sooner...been away from the computer and actually missed your post from last week. Warren

Every radio station around here is playing the audio portion of it over and over. The video was on The Tonight Show with Jay Leno last night. But wait, here's the kicker to the whole thing...she finished 4th in the pageant.

Ah yes, a prime example of "Functional Illiteracy". You'd be shocked at how many there are like her. (Talking about Miss Teen USA - SC).

What's so wrong with using the S130 section here?

Easy fix... Don't turn it so hard... Sorry, couldn't resist. Unfortunately, it's not likely that you'll find many other lock mechanisms that fit into the original housing and it's unlikely that you'll find another switch/steering lock assembly that will fit onto the cheapy Datsun steering column properly or that match up with the location based on the trim pieces. Do yourself a favor while you're at it... using a black magic marker, write the key code (numbers stamped into the new keys) on the outside of the housing of the new lock assembly, that way if you ever lose your keys, you'll have it written somewhere on the vehicle and it'll still be hidden behind the plastic shroud.

On the interior trim piece of the B pillar, there is a single round plastic cap covering a nut. Remove the plastic cap, remove the nut being careful not to drop it down inside the trim panel. This nut is what's holding the pillar trim on. There are also about 6 little plastic tabs on the back side of the outter pillar trim that fit into plastic inserts in the holes that align the trim piece. Hope that splains it well enuf.

The ignition cylinder is held in by a rolled pin...looks like somebody drilled out the one that was there. There is NO depressable retainer, simply the rolled pin. You'll need to drill NEXT TO the rolled pin, use a small punch and pry it out, rememebering that you'll need to reinstall it to hold the new lock in. I do these all of the time as that's what I do for a living. I'm an Automotive Locksmith. If you've never done it before, it can be aggravating. Take Armand's advice...seek professional help... Warren

Not to sidetrack the thread, but along the same topic is the fuel gauge issue. The issue is that the stock ZX Fuel Gauge has 2 actual needles, and 2 sending units in the tank itself, or at least 2 circuits as the wiring diagrams show. 1 main and 1 sub. If one were to use an Autometer gauge, it would be apparently obvious that neither of the 2 sending unit circuits would accomplish sending the correct signal to the Autometer gauge. Autometer does, however, make a programmable gauge that could be used if there were a "single" sending unit that would fit the ZX tank. Since Nissan/Datsun only made the 200SX, 210, 310, 720, Maxima, Sentra and Stanza in and around 1982, other than the 280ZX, does anybody know if any of those model vehicles had a single sending unit that would fit the ZX tank. (I know the Sentra had an in-tank pump, so we can rule that one out). I realize the Autometer gauge can be used as 80LT1 did, but I'm looking for something that would be more accurate and should be more linear in it's display of fuel level. How about it, anybody want to shed any light on this? Warren

So Larry, now that you've got these fancy rims and tires, you're gonna make it to the next SEZ event in March, right? I mean, if Dr. Hunt can make it from Socorro, NM, surely you can make it from TX.

Nothing "Possible" about it...they've been up there for years...

Like I said Dale, I was only putting the reference materials into the post for future searchers... I'm sure the plugs and timing change made a difference as well. Warren

Makes total sense, and thanks for the update. It IS, however, noted on the SDS site FAQ's http://www.sdsefi.com/tech.html#Technical%20Updates that Taylor wires are known to cause RPM ERR's... This info is also in the Troubleshooting section of their Supplemental manual. http://www.sdsefi.com/em4f16.pdf Not trying to be a smartass or anything, just putting the reference materials in the thread for future "searchers". Glad you're seeing a difference since you got rid of the Taylors...those, were probably 95% of the issue you're dealing with. Again, thanks for the followup. Warren

Here's another solution, without having your personal information compromised. Basically, you pay only $12.00 intermediary fee when they're found, plus any shipping costs to get them back to you. They make products for almost everything of value that you could lose. I'm NOT affiliated in any way with them, but I do recommend them to my own customers. http://tracertags.com/cgi-bin/tagstore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=301 Warren

I'm glad that worked out for you...and it was a whole lot cheaper than stripping and repainting the hood. Thanks for letting us know the outcome. Warren

I'm sure the driver doesn't mind you laughing at him, because he'll be doing the same thing when he sees you at the gas station.

Going to paint jail like that? I still see about another 8 to 10 hours of prep work that needs done, and that doesn't include glass or trim removal, but maybe I'm just anal about that. Seriously though, if you were to leave a car in that condition outside overnight around here right now, it'd be orange in the morning (instant rust).

Does anybody happen to have a picture of what's inside the above listed speedometer once you take the front bezel and glass off? I'm needing to see what's inside the cup. If you have this particular picture, please either post it or PM me with it. I have a brand new one here that I plan on using, but don't want to molest it, just in case what's inside won't do what I need it to do. Crimping those silver rings back on is almost impossible from what I can tell. Thanks, Warren

All it would really take is for people to look up the posts that they've made and to go back and finalize them with the results of their efforts. Too many times, people who ask questions to resolve a situation, never go back and tell the solution to the problem. That would finalize the post, allow people to see what, if any, other ideas were tried and what ultimately worked. It would also alleviate ANY burden on the admins. No special "wiki" needed, and it would be a great advantage to keep people in the "search first" frame of mind. Just a thought. Warren

Original Key code for the car is located on the rear hatch lock as well as the passenger door lock. It's alot easier to access the hatch lock since you don't have to remove the window glass. Remove the rearmost interior panel, then remove the 2 10 mm bolts holding the license plate light assembly. Once you remove the assembly, the key code will be visibly stamped on the side of the lock. You do not have to remove the lock to read it. Look for MXXXX where XXXX equals 5000-6999. So long as the locks haven't been changed, take that code to a competent local locksmith and he should be able to cut keys for you. Hope it helps. Warren

Orange sheathed cable going to the tranny should be the Speedometer cable, not the tach cable.

Charlie Osborne in Canada makes S130 Floors & support rails. Zedd Findings I haven't personally used them, but they look to be pretty good quality and very close if not exact replacements, unfortunately, where yours is rusted out, those parts are probably going to have to be fabricated if not cut from a donor vehicle and implanted. Hope it helps, Warren

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say "idler pulley bearing"...probably wrong, but often overlooked. Warren