rags

We also have to bring the brake down from upstairs and cut up some sheetmetal to build an airbox to grab some cooler air out in front of the radiator. For both cars.

Joel, Where did you get yours? I think I need this! Joe

I also don't put too much into the numbers. What I am concerned with is the way the idle doesn't come back down after stabbing the throttle as quickly as I think it should, the missing screw that holds the top half of the intake manifold to the bottom half, and the turbulence in the air that can be felt when you put your hand behind the manifold down by the oil pressure sensor. Could be nothing but it doesn't cost anything to pull the manifold and check to make sure something isn't leaking. We'll find out tomorrow. Joe

I don't reply to txt messages

How's this?

Make sure you have fuel pressure before going crazy with the tune. Setting up a tune with a clogged fuel filter of fuel lines will spell disaster later on. Not to mention you will pull your hair out trying to figure out why the AFR's won't settle. joe

Did some measuring today. Stock diameter L28 pistons. .030 overbore on the block! :lol: Now to find a stock bore block, clean it up, swap in the rotating assembly and see what happens. Joe

I agreed to look at motor for another Z guy who has been having oil consumption issues. Initial findings were some cracks in the head around the each of the valve guides. Figured this was a simple fix as I had a few good P90's and I'd just swap one on and everyone would be happy. Not so fast. I swap the head and although better, the oil burning continues. Since this is a fresh motor with about 1500 miles on it, I figured the oil that was coming down from the guides was enough to keep the rings from seating but before I ripped the motor completely apart, I wanted to rule out the turbo. So, I removed the turbo, pulled the intercooled and swapped in a new set of plugs. After running for 15 minutes, the cloud is back. Pull the PCV hose and see evidence of crank case pressure. Puffs of smoke from the PCV tube and valve cover breather. Gotta be the rings right? So I start with the motor removal. Get the motor out and begin breakdown. After getting the motor out and broken down to the short block on the engine stand, I stop and in deep thought about how this could be burning oil so bad, start to wipe the oil from the top of the pistons. While doing this I hear "clunk", "clunk", "clunk". WTF?! It's coming from the pistons moving horizontally in the bore on the wrist pin! From the naked eye, this seems very excessive. Quick measurement comes out to .038" movement in the bore Today I'm going to measure one of the pistons and the actual bore diameter to see what we have. So far it seems as if the pistons are too small for the bore which I am told is stock, never bored. This is turning into a total engine rebuild which I didn't want to do. I'm starting to feel for the owner as it seems all of the money he spent on the original headwork and the purchase of the custom pistons was a waste. I keep asking myself why did I get involved???

My thoughts exactly. Usually there is no hot wire necessary. Just insert a nail file in the ignition and twist! 35 year old locks are not that hard to beat. Joe

For a motor with a cam that has more overlap than a stock cam, this would seem perfectly normal. Vinh, How long has the motor been sitting? Are you spinning it the same number of revolutions for each cylinder? Sounds like some of the lifters have bled down causing some of the high readings. Joe

Thanks Woj. Looks like the next upgrade Joe

Looking to the electronic guru's out there. I'd like to do away with my ignition key and am thinking of duplicating what new car manufacturers are doing with proximity sensors. I'm not sure if that is the technical term but it's the device that enables the ignition when a teamed device comes within range. Then a simple start button can be used to start the car. Move the teamed device far enough away from the car and the ignition/electrical system is disabled. Does anyone have any information on availability of a kit of this type or how I would go about piecing together such a system? Joe

I have one in very good shape. I'll weigh it when I get home tonight to figure out shipping. Joe

Once again Tim raises the bar. Beautiful work! Joe

With lots of storage right? My basement is filling up too

Yeah Paul, that's exactly what he means. I should have built a bigger garage! Joe

Yep, Clive has acquired a new nic-name. He is now known as GARAGE HOG! Joe

post #35

Nothing happens when you lift up the piston? Do you realize lifting up the piston introduces more fuel by pulling the needle jet out of the bore akin to choking the engine? If this did nothing and the plugs are the ones you show in the pictures, when you change the carbs please send me your old ones. You are running out of fuel. Either the floats are sticking, you have a blockage, or the pump is bad. You can't troubleshoot anything unless you verify you have fuel pressure when the car is acting up!

Check the fuel pressure when the engine is acting up. You need 4 lbs (or there about) at all times.

Were you seeing 4 lbs as the engine was acting up? Joe

Simple way to find out if you are running out of fuel is to put a fuel pressure gauge in the fuel line after the fuel pump. My guess is you will see very low fuel pressure. Once the bowls run dry the stumble will start. Bowls fill up and the car will idle fine. Quick, free check for peace of mind. If that all pans out, hit the throttle shafts with a blob of axle grease to see if that makes things better before tearing the carbs apart. Joe

Jon, I understand what you are saying but I'm still going to stick to my statement. As you know, I do have a car that I built with weight in mind (yellow one) and agree that rotational mass does effect performance. My yellow car is able to outrun cars with much more hp and I contribute it mostly to unsprung weight. The LS1 car was built totally differently. it has over 400 whp but I am looking for more of a street first track second attitude. I think the 18's fit the bill nicely. I don't think you can just look at modifying our cars for track/performance purposes. That is something that would have never come out of my mouth 10 years ago when I first joined this site but my body has changed and I now know I can't have everything in one 40 year old car. My post was meant to read everyone has an opinion and each opinion has a place. Build an all out track car like yours using 40 year old suspension designed around 14 inch wheels and tires probably isn't the place for rim sizes of +4 inches if you want all out performance. But if you aren't looking for the "best" handling car, want many different wheels and tires to choose from and willing to take some crap from people who don't like them, then maybe larger wheels are for you. Bartman, Mikes car?? By the time that car hits the track there won't be any 18's left. Every new car will be rolling on 28's Joe

The way I see it is, if your car doesn't have bumpers, marker lights, interior panels, side glass, radio, heat or AC, a passenger seat, or license plates, then by all means read through all 5 pages of this post and comment. But if your car is street legal, the performance that could be sapped from using 18 inch wheels, or any size bigger than 14", is equivalent to a bag of beans. Joe

Yeah I remember you and your car. You were supposed to bring it by years ago to work on it. I think you also changes your name from Millsan1 to Millsan2. Anyway if memory serves correctly, at the meet you only had one seat temporarily mounted in the car with not much else. I think you the car didn't even have door weatherstripping in it. Also, the paint was very fresh. Not even sure if it had been rubbed out yet. Also, did you have the paintball store or was that someone else? If that is you, I think you are very close to me. Your going to have to take pictures of everything. Engine compartment, interior, exterior, parts to be installed, etc. It'll get done one way or another. Joe