rags

Shoot an email to Jim260Z@yahoo.com He has a set to sell. Joe

Did you mount your caliper bracket to the front, unmachined side of the caliper mounting ears? Can you post pictures of your brackets and setup?

StarChamp, What do you want for the PDK stuff? I'm interested. PM me. Joe

Yeah Pete, this is Jimmy's car. Plugs out and difficult to turn, cylinder pressure low. I asked if the motor was ever easy to start and he said "no, always difficult". I'm with you, I think it's time to tear it down

I'll try anything. Any brand plug and part number recommendations? I know what I'd use but would rather compare notes from others. Joe

Tim, Plugs i took out were not fouled. To be sure, I put in a new set and the same thing happened, plugs fire but she won't start. I feel like I've tried all of the obvious things and also verified all of the easy things which is why I'm now grasping at straws. Joe

Does anyone have an idea of how much torque it takes to turn a motor from the crank bolt with all of the plugs out? I'm thinking this should be my first test to see if there is something obvious going on.

Tony, I tried spraying starting fluid and I get the same result! The spray will ignite but not enough to start. Let go of the starter and the motor stops turning. I know it's burning because I can see exhaust at the tail pipe.

I friend of mine has been having trouble starting his 3.1 liter track car. It has always been troublesome to start but at the beginning of last season, it just wouldn't start. I volunteered to take a look at it so he trailered the car to my house. Since I did not build the motor, I started from scratch. Cam timing is set to spec, Ignition is set to 8 degrees BTDC, Mikuni's have fuel and are jetted properly for the motor. What I did find troublesome is the 105lbs of cylinder pressure but since they were all the same, figured it was due to the cam overlap. I have a nice spark which will jump an inch gap but the motor refuses to start. You can hear some of the cylinders fire and try to start the motor but it never catches enough to start completely. When the engine is cranked with a fully charged battery, to me the engine is just not cranking fast enough. Also, when doing the compression test with all of the plugs out, the engine also does not spin as freely as I think it should. Is it possible that this bottom end was just assembled too tightly? The owner said he has always had the same hard start condition since day one. It just seemed to get worse until eventually it wouldn't start at all. Any suggestions? Joe

The car looks absolutely fantastic so far! I do think it might pull a little with the mismatched front tires. And yes, I am kidding about the tires!

You mean like these?

DC, Why is there so much oil in there on all of the pictures? Do they burn that much oil? Joe

How does $1200 for 14" OEM sound? http://www.czp.us/cart/images/2898l.jpg

Slip on rotor such as the 350z track rotor that moves the caliper close to the wheel rim. I am using MM 5 lug hubs with the 3/4 offset and have a G35 with Brembo's. This weekend I'll pull a rotor and slip it over the MM hub to see how much adapter bracket is needed.

That is what the bracket will look like if you machine the front of the ears and use a rotor with a hat that has little offset. Oh yeah, and the thick area bolts to the stock newly machined ears and the thin part gets the caliper bolted to it. Joe

Ok next question, do the Z32 and Z33 use the same rotor hat offset? If so, the thickness of the caliper mount that Mark made and the location of the mounting surface he created is all that is necessary to make an adapter that can use all of the Z33 big brake kits. Joe

So those pictures actually show my concerns. The Z32 caliper does mount to the front of the caliper mounting ears. By front I mean to the side of the ears closest to the rotor. Also, if you bolt a mounting bracket to rear of the ears as indicated in the bottom picture, you cannot use the slip over rotor as used on the Z33's. Who's project are the top 2 pictures from? That looks promising! Joe

Forgive my ignorance about the Z32 calipers but I was not aware that they are mounted radially. My bigger concern is where the stock caliper mounts to the mounting ears. On an S30, the caliper mounts to the ears on the back side closest to the strut tube. On any car from Z31 on, the caliper mounts to the opposite side of the ears, closest to the rotor. I see this as being the greatest hurdle to overcome as mounting a bracket to the back side of the mounting ears and positioning the caliper where it needs to be to use rotors with a hat offset as small as a Z33 uses is very difficult. My solution to this problem is to first machine the front side of the mounting ears smooth so a mounting bracket could be bolted to the side of the ears that is closest to the rotor. MM 5 lug or Z31 5 lug doesn't matter. I think you still have to overcome the caliper mounting location first to be able to put the caliper in the correct position. Joe

Just ask Dave directly. He's always on here!

I have them. Come pick them up and they are yours. Joe

I want it!

Nice videography! One thing I didn't see in your parts list is a part number for your lower radiator hose. Which one are you using? Joe

I have heat and AC in the garage. Not too expensive if you insulate the hell out of the garage during the build. I'm struggling with the epoxy paint I had installed 7 years ago. It's peeling badly and generally looks like crap. I'm looking for a professional company to come in and do it again. This time someone who will stand behind their work.

Check your local laws to see what you can build as that could dictate how big you go. In my case, ground coverage and height restrictions limited me. I can live with footprint but the height killed me for a full height lift so I settled for a half height. 24x32 and it has seen 4 Z cars in there at one time, still with room to work Joe

Welcome and wow, the car look great! How close are you to dropping the motor in, that is if it isn't in already? Joe