rags

Hi Mike, I built mine as a higher compression (8.5-1) flat top turbo motor and I'm very pleased with the results. Since the car is mostly a street car, I wanted to have as much torque as I could get off boost. I think I accomplished this with the higher compression ratio. It did take me a while to tune the car but I'm now able to run 16lbs pounds of boost with no detonation. Oh and I have most of the turbo pieces if you'd like to mock up a build. Joe

Joel, Isn't that the cam position sensor? I always thought the acronym CAS was for the crank angle sensor. Yes I'm being picky but if people are just skimming over the thread topic it could make a difference. joe

The parts can be stored in my attic but I'm not breaking apart another Z! Besides, I'd never sell anything because I'm too lazy. Joe

Thanks Pete. I'll try the 7's. Joe

Hi Pete, Yep, made it home ok. It was 2 fouled plugs. I'm using NGK BR8ES plugs with a 32 gap. I think I just have the TOG set a little to large. I set it this way because I'm a little paranoid . I'll be out tuning again this weekend. The car is running surprising well! I'm really interested in what you find with the MS. I knew it had to have fried something when we were trying to jump it. Joe

How did I miss this post?? I'm going to give this a shot. My idle is fairly stable after dropping the initial timing and opening the throttle plate a bit but will still hunt every once in a while. Thanks! Joe

Please post your results. My experience with a rear bar so far has not been positive to say the least. It has done nothing but get me facing on coming traffic on the track! I'm sure a lot of that has to do with the driver but I'd still like to see your results. Joe

$1500 should be no problem. You already have all of the parts! The only thing I see you needing will be an exhaust.

Oh you will try this!

One other thing. I wouldn't put the jack stand under the CV joint. Not very safe there. Joe

Vinh, The shorter input does go on the drivers side. Are you saying that you want to put the shorter one on the passenger side? Joe

Here is what I did. I got a set of M30 CV axles from a JY for my core. Had them rebuilt. They came back with new tight tripods on M30 axles. I then took the new tripods off the M30 axles and swapped them onto the 280zxt shafts. Now I have the correct length shafts with new tripods and the boots on the inners are replaceable for an added bonus! Also, the inner housings allow for the tripod to slide into it an extra 1/4" due to the stop button being recessed that much more. Joe

A little update. I just went out to the car and found 2 and 5 are not lighting off. Funny thing is I do have spark at the coil and swapping the injector connections around shows the injector drivers are fine. So I'm down to fouled plugs, bad injectors or compression. Compression is a long shot since it ran fine on the way into the gas station. Further troubleshooting is going to have to wait until I find a plug wrench which is damn near impossible working for a Bank! Joe

Well I took the car to work today after coming back from the convention to test a new CV axle I installed yesterday. All was fine until I stopped for gas. When I started the car back up I'm either missing 2 or 3 cylinders! My guess is a coil went out or one of the injector drivers went out. I'll go out in the parking lot in a few to figure out if it's ignition or fuel. Anyone else have something like this happen? Joe with a hurtin Tec2

One tooth isn't so bad. Mine came back with the trigger wheel on backwards which came out to about 90 degrees off! Joe

Hey Vinh, glad to see you made it back ok. You missed a good party at Harley dealer last night but might have been the smart one! My head i killing me and rains came back today. Time to start planning for 2008 in Cleveland! Joe

Any fluid leaking down the firewall on the inside of the car where the clutch rod attaches to the clutch pedal? You still haven't said if the clutch fork moves when depressing the clutch pedal. Joe

Scotty, I don't know if I'm right or wrong but I'm looking at TOG and IOT as 2 seperate values that can effect each other but are not derived from one another. The way I am looking at it is TOG is determined by injector size, max rpm and kpa. IOT is then used to massage that value to get a decent idle. Because of this, if you tried starting out with a good idle by first adjusting IOT, you run the risk of being way off on the top end (max rpm, big kpa). If your lean you know what happens. By finding the correct TOG for max boost/max rpm, you can then adj the IOT for idle. This will effect the TOG. With O2 sensor correction turned off, I then increase or decrease the TOG by the IOT amount and do the process over again. IOT will still need to be adjusted again but it should be less. I have done this until I am satisfied with the AFR's during a WOT pull and have a decent idle. Then I turn on the o2 sensor correction. I'm sure there is an easier way but this is what I'm comfortable with. Joe

The front is easy. Just use early style bumper mounts. This will pull the bumper in. For the rear you will have to drill the mounts to relieve them of pressure, collapse them, then drill another hole in the collapsed mount and put a self tapping screw through it to keep it collapsed. You'll use the 260 center section but need to find 70-72 rear bumper ends as these will mount correctly. I did this on my 260 (red car in my avatar) and it came out nice. Joe

I was able to slide the strap to the rear of the bolts. The strap is tight against the diff but it did fit. Or, you can make/buy a Ron Tyler style diff mount. Search for it and you will see it takes the place of the strap. Pretty self explainitory. Joe

This one drove me crazy but the clutch is now working. 5 times in and out! Being as stubborn as I am, I just couldn't see how the clutch geometry changed so I took the trans out and looked at the pilot bearing as Mike suggested. All fine there. I then measured how far past the bellhousing the input stuck out and compared that to the old trans. Both the same. Loosened the trans to engine bolts and checked the clutch. It worked! So now I was sure the input shaft pilot bearing was the problem. I come to find that where the inbut shaft goes from the small diameter that goes into the pilot bearing ramps up to the larger diameter is different between both input shafts. 1/16" different but that's all it took.Now to push the pilot bearing in a little further. Credit were credit is due. Mikelly you nailed it! Joe

I guess I should have mentioned that I have no problem shilfting the trans as long as the motoe isn't running. I can engage all 6 gears. I can also start the car while in gear. Depressing the clutch doesn't fully disengage the engine from the driveline. Mike, I thought the same thing and did bleed the clutch again. No bubbles. Maybe I rushed through it so I'll try it again. I'm just looking to confirm my thinking. If I use the same bellhousing, fork, throwout beaing and collar and clutch itself, there is no chance I could have changed the clutch geometry, correct? Joe

If I can get this d@#n clutch figured out I'll be there. Anyone have any thoughts on my post I have in the drivetrain forum? Joe

I swapped out the T5 that was behind my L6 for one that had less miles because mine was very noisey, worn bearings. I used the same bell housing, clutch fork and throwout bearing but somehow lost the ability to release the clutch. It does not disengage completely nit allowig me to get the car into gear. I thought I could have done something wrong with the clutch fork so I dropped the trans again. Nothing strange so I put it back up. Same result. Since I used all the same parts including the bellhousing how can this be happening? I had a great clutch before the swap where it would grab halfway up the pedal travel. What am I missing? Joe

It's good to see a bunch of people leaving after me. This way, if I get stuck, I can thumb my way down to the convention as they pass me.