rags

Local news reporting that the store did try to close. They told the shoppers there was a fatality and the store was closing. People wouldn't leave. One person was interviewed saying she was on line to get into the store since 4AM and wasn't about to leave without first finishing her shopping!

Ken, Go for the T56. Once you install an aftermarket shifter (Pro 50, Steeda, MGW,etc) the feel is very nice. I got used to it very quickly. Joe

Wait a minute, the mess has already been cleaned?! This is gonna be one long build! <-----Look how the floor of the garage looked before you started:mrgreen: !! Just kidding man. Glad the other 3 liter has found a home. Joe

Isn't the LT1 OBD1? Is so, it will be a little harder to find someone to tune the ECM if you modify the internals. The LS1 has a huge following in the ECM tuning arena. I'm not saying one engine is better than the other, just something else to think about. Joe

Mine harness is a Speartech, http://www.speartech.com/. Pricey but foolproof. All of the sensors came with the engine. Joe

It won't be on the 2010's http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2010-gtr-losing-launch-control/ Joe

How about this. MS the 240 motor with parts from the attic. Once running, swap in the turbo motor grab Dave's tune and run it like that until the 3 liter is ready to get off the stand.

As Tony said, it fits fine. I'm using a 75 tank in my 71 with zero problems. Joe

Very nice.

I'll check mine tonight.

Glenn, This is great! There are a few there that I can use as starting points as they list almost all of my mods! Joe

Hi Mike, Did you ever figure out the "pushing" problem? I have a V8 260 that has MSA bard front and back. Haven't played with that car for a while since the turbo car and the LS1 car have been taking all of my time. Have you tried removing the rear bar completely? Easy to do and free Somerville to Westwood is about an hour. Stop by sometime Joe

Woo hoo! I just got an email from DaleMX that he is sending me the EFILive tuning cable that he used on the LS1 280 he sold me. Now it's time to get started tuning. Is anyone here familiar with EFILive? I'm not really afraid to try it but was hoping that I would have one of my Z brothers to lean on if I got stuck. The first thing I have to tune out is a nasty hunt for idle when you come out of the throttle. I'm assuming it's because of all of the upgrades (PRC stage 2 5.3 heads, Thunder Racing 230 cam, FAST manifold, etc, etc, etc), and I'd like to get it somewhat cleaned up before heading for some dyno tuning. Anyone use something besides EFILive?

Go back to the speedbump where you heard the noise. Go over it again with your foot on the clutch. If you hear the noise while freewheeling over the speedbump the noise is coming from the struts. You said you just changed the struts and springs. Was the noise there before you did this? Are you now using shorter lowering springs?

I'm using one also. Only difference is I went the cheap route and bought one used off of Ebay from the Mustang crew. Fits perfectly and was 1/4 the cost.

Lift the motor off the mounts and press the clutch. If you have all the bolts out the motor will separate from the trans.

Although not 100% sure, I'd say it will only work in single point dizzy's sice it is mounting in the same position as the points and there is a difference with the way a single and dual setup mount.

Take the top of the regulator off by removing the perimeter screws and see if there is a tear in the diaphram or something keeping the valve from seating correctly. There really isn't anything to a FPR and once you open it you will see how it works. The two scenarios described above are the only twu reasons why it wouldn't work. Joe

Kevin, How far along are you with the fuel system on the swap? From your post it sounds as if the returnless GTO fuel rail has thrown you a curveball in the middle of the swap and your looking for suggestions to get around it. Is that the case? As you can see from the responses you have recieved so far, there are many ways to plumb the system. What have you purchased so far? I'm sure you'd like to try to use what you have already have on hand in a system that functions correctly, no?

It's calling your name!

In the rear, moving the perch is the plan for the future. Right now I'd like to get a set of 1/4" spacers that fit the bolt pattern properly and won't cause vibration. Looks like I'm going to give these a try for the back http://www.optionimports.com/ns-50205-a056.html

Hmmmm.......

Yeah I know but that does nothing with how close the rim is to the perch. I'd still like more room. Joe

Are you wanting to move the alt and the idler? My LS1 has the alt low on the pass side. If you need one, I have an extra waterpump but I don't know what that will buy you. Do you know if your setup is factory based? Joe

Hi All, I'm trying to put new 350Z wheels and tires on a 78 and have a few problems I hope someone can help me with. I guess I should start by saying I'm using Ross's 5 lug conversion and coilovers. I have 2 issues. The first is out back where the placement of the lower collar perch will not allow me to have any wheel weights on the back side of the rim. I know this because after installing the new wheels on the rear, I pushed the car to make sure all was good and the car stopped suddenly when a wheel weight hit one of the perches. I know someone is going to tell me not to use weights on the inside of the rim but I'm still not comfortable with how close the rim is to the perch. Actually the perch should be moved above the tire but I'm looking for a quicker way to solve the problem which would be 1/4 inch wheel spacers. Anyone have a good source for wheel spacers to fit Ross's 5 lug hubs? The second issue is up front. Again Ross's 5 lugs and coilovers. But this time I have plenty of room out back with the 350Z wheels and tires. The fitment problem is with the wheel bearing dust cover that Ross uses. His is a screw on type aluminum piece that will not fit behind the 350Z wheel, with or without the wheel center cap. Any ideas here? Thanks guys.