tube80z

You do realize much higher up the board is the Caterham R500. You don't get much lighter or simpler than one of those. Almost as fast as the Veryron. It's simple, you need more newtons (F=Ma and the rest of this forms of this equation) Cary

What I've read is you can build your motor it just won't be allowed to have more performance than the cossie. And the tranny is the same for everyone, which probably also means the KERS unit. I'd love to see F1 in America at some place like Laguna Seca. I agree, many of the new tracks seem pretty much the same. I think the only Tilke circuit I like is Turkey. Singapore was kind of neat but I don't really want more night races. Oh well, it will all go where ever Bernie gets the most money. Or where Max can find cheap labor Cary

If you follow F1 you'll know the Honda decided to take it in the pants for 2008. They were one of the most well funded teams last year and completely shifted focus to 2009. They made that decision after Ross Brawn arrived and saw the performance of their car in 07 winter tests. The question now is can a home be found for this team. They have some of the most up to date resources of any F1 team and poached considerable to help them out. Cary

I think this has been fixed. But then the rules first came out it as the closest whole litre for weight. Cary

Using a T-10 or muncie isn't going to add any time to this conversion. We've been running the T10 all year and it's a known quantity. There's a special bellhousing and pilot bearing that are needed. And a special flywheel can be used that allows either old style clutches or the newer camaro/corvette clutch. Cary

Around here we had track days, autox, drag racing, and dirt track. We still have all of that so not much has changed in this neck of the woods.

Nope, still has those stupid door handles.

It will be good to note how much travel you have before we go too much farther in advice. I would like to point out that in the pic above you're on the brakes and not the gas. So you can't really say for sure how planted the rear is or not. As John mentions above the issue we're all seeing is a pitching of the car. What we don't know is if that's caused from the from the car running out of travel or some other cause. Once you fix that I think you'll find car works much better. The static pics make it look like you're fairly low. Cary

It may also come from changing RC locations and/or using devices like droop limiters to control the load transfer distribution. I'm not saying this isn't the issue but unless you see it in person it is unlikely in my opinion. I've seen a number of cars setup just like this and they don't have this issue unless an insert isn't working. Cary

It's sorta hard for me to tell what is causing what in your video. But to me it looks like the front starts hopping, probably ran out of suspension travel, and then your right foot starts tapping along. And as you make more power and have a more responsive engine you pay the penalty. A few things to try that aren't too hard. Put zip ties on the shock shafts and see if they are being pushed into the bumpstops. If they are then I'd fix this before moving too far along Next thing, which may be a little harder. Add a quadrant to you throttle linkage and slow down the lower opening movement. You want to have to move your foot more at the lower openings. This can really be important with a V8 car. And if you can get us some pics of the car in a corner. Preferably a front three-quarter shot so we can see the inside front and rear tires. Cary

If you like those try this site, https://www.racing-underground.com/index.ru?cls=25&cid=2&scid=71 Cary

Yeah, that was pretty cool. My three favorite rally videos 1. Climb dance (Pike Peak in a 405) 2. Michelle Mouton in an Audi commercial 3. Walter Rohrl's pedal cam (how I learned left-foot braking) Cary

I've ran a very tight CLSD, a lose CLSD, VLSD, and an open diff. With the preload jacked up a lot (close to spool) I thought the car worked really well for autox (like a big kart). When I started setting the car up more like a sports racer (much stiffer springs, droop limiters, etc.) I found that a loose, almost open diff worked much better and the car was a lot faster. For a while I had a completely open diff in my autox car and it was as only slightly slower than when I ran the loose CLSD. So if you follow a similar setup for your car the Quaife should work well. Cary

Also check the bearing on top.

Mine had have about a year of hard use and all I can see is a little of the anodizing wearing off. So far have been very happy with these. I take them apart a few times a year and clean the surface and put in some new grease. It it would help I can send you some close up pics but it will take a bit for me to find all the parts. The bottom of the plate is a hemisphere and the there's a steel washer with a similar curve in it that rides on the camber plate. A torrington bearing is fitted under this. The way these are built the spring loads go into the plate and the spherical takes the shock loads. And when you turn the bearings allow everything to move. Cary

Really nice work! Cary

I don't see how you're going to get any radial loading on the toe-link. And a season of abuse has shown no issues in ours. Cary

How do you figure out spring rate with air bags? None of these sites mention this simple fact for their systems, or at least I can't find it. Cary

This sounds very similar to the setup on Dave's LS2 car. We use the FA rears but had issues with the fronts earlier this year. We had been using pictures and a pyrometer to set camber and running similar temps to yours. After watching closely what it appeared was we were killing the tires by dragging the inside in the corners. We had a couple of pictures where we could see a line around the tire that showed what was touching the ground, which also seemed to be where they wore out. On the inside 1.5 inches or so (familiar?) I just noticed you have outer edge wear. Do you have any pics of the car loaded up in a corner? Are you running camber plates or stock isolators? It still sounds like you have too much roll or perhaps a compliance steer problem that's leading to excessive toe-in (you might check the steering joints). The rest of the advice is probably not worth a lot but I'll leave it in case you find it interesting. To fix this we reduced the camber to about 1.5 degrees negative in the front. Added more caster 8 to 10 degrees (may do more but ran out of adjustment and into tire clearance issues). This helped the brakes work better and tire temps were down a bit (5 to 10 hot on the inside). Also keep in mind I'd run at least double your spring rate. I think that's a problem. You also need to be very aggressive at controlling roll. We did this using droop limiters. This will help you run a lot less camber too. You may want to check the toe too. Here's a trick. Try running the car over a piece of sheet aluminum on top of some salt or glass beads (something low friction) with about half lock on on the inside tire. Does the car push the sheet away or pull it under? You can use this to help figure out if you need more toe out (although I wouldn't go beyond 3/8 of an inch). We run 1/4 to 5/16. My suggestions 1. Double spring rates 2. Less camber 3. More caster 4. Limit droop for better roll control Hope this helps, Cary

Good question. And it would be good to have the rest of the temps and alignment. We had similar problems earlier this year and have ideas on how to fix it assuming you have the FA tires. Cary

I don't think you read anything wrong. I'm still going through a lot of this myself and was interested in seeing what was proposed as a better solution. There's more info that's being released in this area as the FIA has made it a hot topic. With regards to the Subarus I'm pretty sure FIA regulations require the door bars not to protrude into the doors (all mechanisms must work etc.) and the doors may have the stock safety beams in place too. So the cage may be a secondary safety device designed to work with the shell. To be quite honest I only found the link and it appeared it had some decent data and passed it along before looking very deep. I'm currently pretty messed up on pain pills so if what I'm writing isn't making sense you've been warned. Cary

Some more reading for the safety minded, https://dspace.lib.cranfield.ac.uk/bitstream/1826/2282/1/Corrected_Roll_Cage_Thesis.pdf Rally car side impact protection. Cary

If you cut the rotor you now have a spot that is thinner. So under severe use that will get hotter and will expand more, which leads to runout when used hard. If you don't cut the rotor and shim the hat then you don't have this issue. At least that's what I'm getting out of this. Cary

I used similar hardware. I also installed vertical bracing in the center that touched the windshield and helped it keep its shape. I the painted black around the edge and a big strip at the top. If I recall correctly this saved abut 15 pounds over the windshield and rubber gasket that were replaced. If you need a water tight seal you can use silicone to build it up but you'll probably need to use a different spacer arrangement. You need to use special cleaners and be very careful with this stuff or it will scratch as everyone as said. I bought a kit of cleaner scratch remover from aircraft spruce that worked very well. I've also found that you can use wax to help shed water and protect the surface. And what ever you do make sure you don't use an ammonia based cleaner or it will cause the lexan to whiten. Cary

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