tube80z

I've found goof off works much better than brake cleaner once you've got all the big pieces off. And you can buy it by the gallon. Cary

Take my advice with a grain of salt (or a few pounds as the case may be). You haven't mentioned tires and that's the first thing I'd look at. Try and find a car that uses the same tires and see what they are using for camber gain. My gut feel is that 50% recovery from roll is too much. I'm guessing that it's going to be in the 20 to 30 percent range. If you have too much with modern radials it will give you snap oversteer. And the way you'd end up fixing it is running really stiff to keep thing from moving. With regards to motion ratios you will want to keep those very close front and rear. That will make shock tuning much easier. And I'd also make sure you're new rear suspension moves the RC in such a way that the car tends towards understeer on corner exit. If you can think about having some adjustment in the rear for RC height as that can be a powerful tuning tool. Hope that helps, Cary

Flip the pads after each weekend and you'll not really have this issue. Cary

Thread moved to a better home. Cary

See the sticky at the top of this forum for Bilstein options.

I use a similar set of pads from PFC and I'd opt for less rear torque and heat range. If you have an infrared probe check disk temps but I'd guess the rear is less than the front. In PFC I've had good results with 01 on the front and 97 on the rear. Trying 01 all around seemed to cause balance issues as the rears were in and out of the range where they worked. I know this isn' the same pad as you're looking at but the idea is the same and I can't say it worked that well for me. Cary

You can use the 280ZX pump and bracketry. A friend used this with the subaru rack and it worked just fine. Cary

550s actually. And you could feel the splitter from about 35 MPH on up. We really needed to balance it out as it would cause the front brakes to work too well at speed. It really needed an equally large wing in the back. Sorry to say we have no real data other than the feeling and how deep we could go on the brakes with it on. The car was setup so that at speed it would be level and have rake as we went onto the brakes. Under power it was slightly nose up but still seemed to help. Cary

Taking the rack apart isn't that hard to do and you could clean up the old grease that's probably gotten a little nasty. On my previous car that made a large difference to the steering feel. The old grease was more like wax. Cary

The only bit of caution I might add is that if you have tripples (or even SUs) sometimes the intake noise is greater than the exhaust. In that case an airbox will help. Cary

On some rally car prep sites they have been talking about using liquid nitrogen for removing sound deadener/undercoating. Google should give you many hints. If I had to do this again I'd seriously think about it.

By Shutter do you mean it vibrates severely? If so then I'd expect an out of balance wheel/tire or an out of round wheel/tire. Poly rack bushings and a solid steering coupler can often make these symptoms worse. Cary

They are vented, attached is a pic of the Ferrari front brakes from Malaysia this year. The rotor floats on a hat, which floats to the hub on a splined interface. Cary

So you're the responsible party for Marc?! We need to have a talk out behind the shed On my autox car I use the lightweight rotors with gas slots. Not as light as the cross drilled rotors but they last a lot longer. On a friends EP car rotors were lasting one qualifying and race before they broke and he had a lot of ducting. Switching to cryogenic treated rotors solved the issue. He routinely sees 1200 degree temps. Cary

Nice work!

No, you're not alone. Saw that one myself and thought it was a nice looking car. I think I'm watching the older episodes on A&E or something like that. Still lots of catching up to do. Cary

It's hard to say for sure what you'll need to do for the Avons. You'll need to find someone with first hand knowledge of their care and feeding or do a lot of testing. On a friends EP car it took more spring to turn the GYs on and once that was done the car decimated the track record. Tire temps had been in the 105 to 115 range. Now they are about 180, which is still low according to the GY engineer. All I can say is your LA numbers still look low but that may be track related. On slicks I'd expect to see low 1.4s when everything is sorted and working well. I know you're no longer using the FA tires but your setup wasn't correct for them to work properly. FA tires are designed to be used as half your suspension travel. Until you do that they don't seem to work very well. And I know they are designed for a light car (1380 lbs) but you have to remember those can make 3000 lbs of downforce.

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Unless your springs are marked you will need to measure them directly. One approach often used is to put the spring on a bathroom scale and press using a drill press. You push down a set mount (usually an inch) and take a reading. The other way is to measure the coils and do math -- but who likes math Cary

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If your pressure rise is equal front to rear then your setup is probably ok. Generally if the temps are out of whack the pressure rise will be too. But like John said sometimes one end will cool quicker so you need more data. Don't get too hung up on LA numbers. Your track may not have the same level of grip and you'll see it vary throughout the day/weekend. But if everythings working those numbers are what I've seen on an EP car, which isn't too far from where you can take your car.

Cameron, it's kind of hard to tell from what you've written how much the cool down lap lowered your temps. Do you have a hot pit you can come into when you're running? That would be a little better. But generally I'd expect to see temps near 200s for those tires. From my experience you're barely getting them to work, which is why the LA number is so low, unless the track just doesn't have that much grip. If the tires are working I'd expect to see numbers in the 1.4 to 1.5 range. It also seems you're working the rears a little too much. What is the pressure rise? A friends very fast EP car has very similar temps front to rear. At least at this point it sounds like the rear is being worked pretty hard. And as Jon mentions you need to up the springs to build temp in the tires. Talk to the trackside tire engineers and they will tell you the same thing. And if you have dead spots in shocks (from your other thread) that may not help get temp into the tires. Only trick I know is to try and raise the instant centers in your suspension. That should build more heat.

If you don't make it double shear then you should change the strut bar mount to a clevice. This will make it stiffer than a rod end.

If you have the dyno curve you can calculate the damping coefficient based on your unsprung weight. Cary

Ideally you'd need a dyno plot of the shock and from that you can calculate the damping coefficient based on your unsprung weight. Cary