EvilRufusKay

Don't worry man...I went through two sets of manifolds trying to mod them to work on my V8 Z before I decided to take a set of block huggers I had and mod them instead. Two weeks..tons of hours on the manifolds...10 minutes with an angle gringer on the block huggers and it works!!! Chalk it up as a learning expieience!! Rufus

I have the same problem with my 75. There are tons of them on ebay but always used. I saw a "new in box" one go for $150.00 shortly (pun intended ) before I decided that taking mine apart and cleaning it was a waste of time. I had dissassembled it three times as well. The real hassle for me was getting my colum cover to go back on right. VB sells them new but for about the same price as MSA. Rufus

Its possible that a groove has been worn in the yoke. Have you looked at it? If it had you would be able to see it and feel it. It is also possible that the seal was installed wrong or damaged when it was put in. How does the seal look installed? Dented? Crooked?

Dan unplugged it. He posted a while back saying the server was getting slammed. I thought he turned it back on but I bet it has something to do with the test of the new site going on. Rufus

You should not need hubs...just longer studs. Do you have two sets of axles or just one? Do you know how many miles on the diff?

The damage would have to be pretty sever to cause a huge leak. More likely it would be a slow leak. However a improperly installed seal onto a damaged surface would be worse. Repair would be difficult. Emory cloth...silicone...new seal...short prayer

Ahhh...thanks for the summary...it never ends does it...if not one thing it's another. Here is something to consider if after you get the tranny resealed and you still have leaks which you than suspect are coming from the pan or rear seal. Perhaps one of the previous hacks (Tim is excluded obviously ) damaged either the pan or the recess for the rear seal through improper removal of the old gasket/seal. If these surfaces are not "true" then no matter how good the seal is it will never stop a leak. A pan can easily be bent during removal, and a rear seal bore can be gouged if it is pryed out incorrectly. This type of damage is hard to spot and often overlooked. If you do decide to change these seals again insist on examining the areas for yourself. Check the pan with a good striaght edge from side to side and corner to corner checking for low/high spots. Check the rear seal bore by running your finger around it feeling for gouges or pits. Just a thought.. Rufus

Where are you located? I might trade you the Brake upgrade parts you need. Rufus

There have been a couple of threads about this site...I don't think many people seemed interested though. It seems like it might be a cool idea. I do remember one point that came up with that I agreed with. That was that if the needles were somehow also indiglo the whole setup would be a lot more desireable. Rufus

Bastard... I replaced mine when I was trying to kill exhaust...didn't help. It would probably hgelp with the burning oil though. Hey haven't I seen in a bunch of threads comments about your oil leak? Is this the one that leaks after a recent motor rebuild?

How much of a possability is it? In other words...is it a long shot or is there a chance? Thanks, Rufus I will definetly be interested in ToplessZ's auction!!!

I got a TON of them. I use my work email and when I contacted my buddies in IT they laughed at me and said" Stop giving out your email address to the porn sites you visit" I never use my work email except for ebay and this site. Hope I didn't spread it into our network!! Rufus

Nice!!! Mine is the same color...for now. I didn't see any cracks in the dash. Is this correct? Congrats!! Rufus

Steve, What would it take to get you to have a mold made of your front fenders? Not only am I willing to pay, but I would wager that you could easily sell 10 sets of fenders after a mold was made.

Very Cool Man. I must say I respect your train of thought. I originally got into it because I liked working on cars and thought I could make a decent living doing it. Money can be made, I just went in the wrong direction. Your ideas seem to have more possibilities. The Machine Shop idea is a great one. I spent about three years working in one and it helped me advance my knowledge as well as my career greatly. The one component that a lot of guys miss out on (including myself) is electronics. Not just Ohms law and basic electrical knowledge but advanced automotive elctronics. There is always a high demand for someone who has a good technical background/understanding of electronically controlled engines.

The reason I asked is I worked at a dealership for years ASE certified, and for the ammount of knowledege you need to have plus the stress of "get em in get em out" it was not worth it. I know all dealerships are not the same but...around here a master tech with 15 years experience at the dealership still only makes between 15 to 19 an hour. This is while the dealership charges $75 an hour!!! If I sound bitter ITS BECAUSE I AM!!! Ahhhh.... I feel better. You seem like a smart guy...stay away from the dealership. In fact my buddy I worked with at the Ford dealership just left to work at PEP BOYS!!! He is making almost double what the dealership was paying him!!!

Thanks Jeff!! How much did you spend on materials? The guy Jon hooked me up with will build AND ship one for $325.00. Seems very reasonable considering I would have to borrow a welder from my buddy since mine took a crapola!!

Steve, That is more than just an IMSA flare up front. Have you blended it into a stock fiberglass fender or what? Rufus

Mike, What is this school you are going to and what is your major? I went to school for automotive technology years ago...but it was all straight new car stuff. Rufus

Nice shop Denny...Man I would love a lift but I know the guys I share my spot with would destroy the pump picking up their dump trucks!! The rig looks very sturdy...I assume it comes apart in the middle. How long are the pieces? Fit in a pickup? Maybe in the back of a full size Bronco with the window down?

Thanks Jon!!! Just emailed him.

Jon, Thanks...I did not see any way to get a hold of this guy through the link you posted though...any thoughts? Denny, Looks like there is 386 miles miles between us...would you consider $325.00 to meet me halfway? Rufus

I know there were a couple of threads reguarding this topic but with the search out I can't find them. I am looking for ideas on how to build my own...I would even consider buying one if someone was selling...I remember seeing a thread about one for sale a while back. Thanks, Rufus

Thats a quick way to shave a bumper!!!! You know this kid is going to try and make some outlandish insurance claim...I bet his insurance company would like to see this video!!

Sounds more like a bad through out bearing (the bearing the clutch fork rides on)...If it only does it with the clutch in it is not the engine. Can you feel it in the pedal? Rufus