EF Ian

I would have used that instead of welding mine on, but as I needed to move the breather on the intake side cover forward slightly to clear my bonnet latch it wouldn't have worked for me.

I used a CNC machine on my rotors just to make sure they were spot on. My brakes seem great so far, much lower friction pads in the rear compared to the front still but I can definitely feel the rear brakes doing their work, I have my bias valve almost fully open at the moment, I think once I change pads I will have to close it up a bit. Handbrake holds well but unfortunately can't lock the wheels while moving. But with big sticky rear tyres I may need a hydraulic handbrake if I want to do this.

About time for an update. This is just about finished for the first stage of the project. Shes running again although I do have a lot of the little details to sort and she also needs a good detail. I spent a few hours cleaning the interior today as she was filthy, some of the dust from the blasting found its way inside and coated everything, I wet wiped, dryed and treated every surface and took the seats out and vacuumed everywhere and while I was at it I took the seat rails off and cleaned them as dust had stuck to the grease and was preventing them sliding smoothly. Not the best photos but you get an idea, I'll take better ones once I wash her properly, the rear wing is on now also since I took these. I love how shes looks, I couldn't be happier, the wheels and airdam are perfect and make such a difference together with the lowering. Looking tiny and very low compared to the Golf Thinking smaller number plate may be called for. Still got lots of setting up to do, tracking, caster and camber are all off and need set and I need to bed in the brakes and play with the brake bias valve to find the right balance, even as she is it feels great and it really stops well. Have been having problems with the float chambers overflowing on the carbs, cleaned them up today so hopefully that's sorted but I need to wait for new gaskets for them. Will hopefully have better photos soon. Got a lot of work to do on the RB26 to get it ready so that wlll keep me busy, also my Civic is going to take lot of work, two projects at once is hard going. Wish the weather was better.

Thanks guys, I'm running Hawk HP+ on the front so it makes sense that it would balance out also having them in the rear, I've used them on my civic for a while and find them to be great apart from really heavy dusting. Also good to hear that yellowstuff seem to be good. 1 Tuff Z - thanks for your offer to help with shipping, I think I can get them ok, but if not I'll keep you in mind. Only just drove the car for the first time tonight with the new brakes, suspension, wheels and so on and not that much due to carb problems (the float chamber keeps overflowing) Still need to setup the caster and toe correctly and then get a feel for the brakes and play around with my prop valve but first impressions are good.

Nigel - Can you recommend me some brake pads please, I'm finding it rather hard to find ones in the UK, I've got some cheap pads in there at the moment, I'll be driving it again in less than a week and I want to change to better pads first. All the normal performance brands I'd normally use don't seem to do pads for these callipers (you can't get Mustangs in the UK). The only ones I have seen are EBC Yellowstuff pads which are better than what I have but I was hoping for something better, I need a high performance pad that can also be used on the road and from cold. Perhaps America has something to offer.

I've ordered -10 bungs, I hope its big enough, I've seen quite a few setups running this size so the airflow should be enough.

Think I'll go for -10 then. Unlike you I still have the original bonnet catch in place and with my mounts mounting it lower and further back than yours the stock fittings on the intake side cam cover hit it. I'm planning to remove the original fitting, weld it up and weld a -10 fitting just In front of it.

This the mines equal length downpipe, from those that already have twin turbo RB26's installed how far off would something like this be from fitting?

Gmac - What size of fittings did you use? I'm trying to decide between -10 and -12

Not the HP I am after, its the sound.

Does anyone know if its possible to make an equal length downpipe fit?

More nice work.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113199-yet-another-rear-drum-to-disk-conversion-option/?p=1086421

Looking good, nice work, engine isn't quite as pretty as an RB though, not that that is the most important thing when picking an engine. Glad to hear this.

I ran out of time to fit the setup myself, therefore I had to get someone to fit it for me and as such I haven't seen the setup fitted personally or tried out the handbrake. I'm back again in January so I will be checking everything out properly then.

Good kit, fits well, even with CV shaft conversion and billet stub axles. Yet to try it as I work away from home but I can't see why it wouldn't perform perfectly. Fits behind my 16x8 ET10 rotas perfectly. I'm looking forward to getting the car out and trying it when I'm home in January. (Hopefully there are enough dry days for me to get the car out) Car is with the Auto electrician at the moment, I will get better photos once its back, but for now here are the only two shots I have. Discs look a bet messy with the paint but this will clean up once they are used and should leave a nice straight edge.

Had similar with mine, almost certainly fuel related. With mine it was just the fuel filter was too dirty due to dirt and rust in my tank, had to change my fuel filter every 200 miles or so until I fitted my custom alloy tank.

600 would be a lot in a 240Z, you might find 500 is more than enough. Can you make 600hp with your current turbo?

Anyone got any photos of the Z31 setup?

That should be some engine there. Will be good to see how it performs.

Carterlrae - Yes, there was budget, both for chassis, body, suspension and brake setup and another for engine swap. I've gone over the first and its safe to say I'm going to go over the engine swap budget also. Theres always costs that you didn't account for. Theres quite a lot of expensive parts on it that I've had to sacrifice things in order to afford, but I want to make sure if I do something I do it right and getting it right means no breakages later on and will save me money long term. Do it right, Do it once. Wasn't planning on a highly modded RB, but its not going to work out any more expensive, if I got a stock one I would still have changed the oil and water pumps, added an ATI damper, taken the head off, changed the gasket, fitted oil restrictors and drain. This has all this done already so that's saves me getting that done plus its got lots of extras. This car is definitely for me, never plan to sell it. I plan to keep the interior nearly stock, will be fitting a half cage after the swap though, might have to change the seats if they aren't holding me well enough for track work, I'll see how they go. Don't think its quite on par with the green SR20 build, I'm doing the best I can but I don't have the kind of budget that was put into that, I'm confident I can make it my perfect Z though.

Some photos of the engine. Got lots to do to just get it looking ready, got to: Clean up throttle bodies and throttle linkages Possibly powdercoat intake plenum - metallic silver Remove fan Remove power steering pump Polish cas unit Try and polish up cam gear cover to make it properly clear again, if this is not possible I'll buy a new one or use a stock metal one Remove breathers on cam covers and weld on -10 fitings and repaint in R34 red Buy plug cover Clean and repaint block Get exhaust manifolds ceramic coated Came without twin turbo outlet piping, need to buy them, modify it to make the airflow meet better and get it polished. That's all on top of fitting new parts like the custom sump and turbos. I'll make sure it all looks mint before it goes in.

Awesome bit of kit, if only I had the money.

Thanks Wheels are 16", I'll see what the clearance is like once its at its final height. If you are worried about clearance with the bar then you can easily slot it into the part of the body that it touches in the middle to give you plenty more clearance than it has on my setup.

Due some updates, most of the work is done: diff mount, cv shafts and conversion flanges, billet stub axles, rear brakes, prop valve, suspension, brake lines and engine are all fitted. Not so good photos, when I get better ones I'll put them up. Still got some wiring to do, fusible links to be changed for modern fuses, fan to be wired in, airdam and bumper to be fitted , rear strut brace altered to fit, fuel lines to connect up and that's about it. Should also have turbos (HKS GT-SS) and gearbox sorted now too.