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EF Ian

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Everything posted by EF Ian

  1. Perhaps in a year or two, need to get my RB26 in and running on the GT-SS Setup then sort out the final details first. Looks like a great job.
  2. This is only going to be an issue on high HP cars and mainly turbo ones at that, therefore most average cars at a scrapyard don't really apply. I really couldn't care less about what you do with yours, but I will listen to people more knowledgeable than me who have built many high performance turbo cars and make my return lines either the same as or bigger than my feed.
  3. Any reading I've done on fuel systems has always recommended that you never run a smaller return than the feed, as if running high pressures and especially at idle it can cause over pressure as the regulator will be bleeding a lot and if the return is causing a restriction then the regulator won't be able to work properly.
  4. Because that's the proper way to setup a high power fuel system. Its vital to have no backpressure in the return line, therefore you run it bigger than the feed.
  5. The 2 5/8" gauges seem to be the ones people go for, they seem to fit ok but stick out slightly, is It possible to make the 2 1/16" gauges fit better in the recess?
  6. Looking very good so far. Engine looks great. Same gauges as I am looking to use with mine, just trying to work out if GPS speedo is legal for me and will pass mot.
  7. Worth waiting for, all the other kits are underpowered apart from the Silvermine one and as we know its the issues from that made you design this to start with.
  8. Nice Looks a bit like the Rocky Auto Z with the big fenders.
  9. Thanks, the fuel tank is great isn't it, hope it works well once I start using for fuel injection setup, no reason why it won't though. Unfortunately its got to be a bit slow for a while, I'll be buying parts as and when I can afford them over the next 5 months, next on the list a Link G4+ Extreme ECU with extra sensors. Still got a lot of expensive parts to get unfortunately but I'm too far to stop now: ECU & Sensors Custom Mil-spec Wiring Harness Mounts Custom Sump Custom Intercooler and Radiator Custom Propshaft Injectors (Probably Asnu 700cc) Coils Ceramic Coating of manifolds and turbo elbows Clutch & Flywheel Tomei Fuel Rail, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, AN fittings and lines, Filter Various Engine and Turbo gaskets Custom Oil Catch Tank Oils Air Filters OS Giken LSD Speedhut Gauges - Speedo, Tach, Water Temp, Boost, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp Quite a scary list.
  10. You want quite big wires, I used hi flex cable and I think it was 135amp. I can't see it effecting the balance much and I guess its like Bloz Up said, depends on your setup. My battery and holder only weight 6.8KG so not really heavy enough to affect anything. I don't run a spare wheel as a big enough wheel to fit over my brakes won't fit in the well and I'll soon have an RB26 installed which is heavier than the L26 so if anything for me its good to move more weight backwards, plus I need the space where the battery was in the bay for a the mil spec connector for my wiring and my catch tank.
  11. I ran my positive wire under the carpet along the edge of the inner sill and through the bulkhead using a through panel fitting: You Can see it I this photo: I need to change the red power wire to a black one: The negative was just bolted to one of the bolts used to bolt the seat in place. It doesn't affect your fusible links, the power for these doesn't come from the battery, it comes off the starter motor. I got rid of my fusible links and replaced them with modern blade fuses tucked away behind the washer fluid bottle.
  12. I'm almost ready to swap in my RB26. I went for it because its a Nissan engine, still 2.6L, it looks better than a 2JZ and I've always loved them Imo a 2JZ would be stronger and less likely to break, they are very well built and tough engines and don't have the problems with he oiling systems that RBs have, they also sound every bit as good as an RB and make great power easily. I was very tempted to go this way. WizardBlack - Don't agree about standalone options, there are plenty for the RB26, only two I am even considering though is the Link G4+ Extreme or a Syvec S6.
  13. Complicated things these RB26's Throttle bodies off for cleaning: Other side of block cleaned up and painted: Looking much nicer now: Had the rocker covers off: They have Mines Breathers already installed, I removed them to allow access: To remove the old breather outlet and get the new -10 AN fittings welded on: That patch plate will be ground smooth I moved the intake side breather forward a bit so it will clear my bonnet latch bracket and it will also allow the lines to pass by eah other neatly on the way to the catch can. Cleaning up the turbos: Cleaned and painted the hot sides, outlet pipes will be sent away with the manifolds to be ceramic coated: Took the cold side housings off so they could be soda blasted along with my intake plenum: 50/50 Got my parts back from the polisher: Engine covers are now away to be painted. That's all the updates there will be for a while now.
  14. Looking Much better after a warm lambs wool mitt bath: Where I placed my brake bias valve: Cleaned underneath also: Big difference to before: Some parts are with the polisher, some parts are with the Soda Blaster and my engine covers are with the painter.
  15. Well, I haven't forgotten about this. Should be running good again soon, carbs have been cleaned and balanced but its still spitting out fuel, I've ordered two new float lid assemblies which should arrive vey soon, once I fit them then hopefully its all good again. But in the meantime I've been working on tidying up the RB: My twin turbo pipe arrived, it been modified with a baffle which will smooth the airflow where the flow from the two turbos meet. Mean more power an less shuffle. I will grind the welds smooth and then its off to get polished along with a few other parts. Trust Downpipe: Took off my exhaust manifolds, I will be using these stock ones as tubular ones often crack and don't offer any better results than ported stock ones. You can see they need ported where the soot has built up around the edges, I will port them so they are slightly bigger than the outlets from the head, this avoids turbulence. Took off, the fan and power steering pump both of which won't be going back on. I also took off a lot of the other parts to clean them up. My clear cambelt cover wasn't so clear, so I polished it up, I think it came up pretty good, meaning I'll probably use this over the painted one: Spent a long time cleaning up these parts: Painted one side of my block tonight: Still got to clean and paint the other side of the block, clean up my turbos, take off the intake manifold to be sent for soda blasting and take off the rocker covers to get the -10 fittings welded on, then they are off to get painted.
  16. There was silicon brake lube on the pads, I removed that and tried copper slip, but it was the same with both. I bedded them in same as I always have with all my brakes so it was definitely done correctly.
  17. I recently fitted the AZC Wilwood setup to my 260Z, the setup is working great and stops really quickly but I am getting really bad squeal as the car comes to a stop. I put a load of copper grease around the pads but it made no difference. I'm using Hawk HP+ pads but it also does it with the Wilwood Pads. Anybody else had this problem and does anyone know of a solution?
  18. That's quite an improvement in torque, I'll work out what pads to use once I decide on the fronts. The Hawk HP+ pads are amazing, but I don't think I can put up with the dust they produce. The hand brake definitely performs really well for its intended purpose, I only have to pull it up a couple of clicks to really lock the rears, so pulled up full it would hold really tight. Its unlikely I'll be drifting the Datsun anyway so the fact I can't lock the brakes while moving won't really be a problem.
  19. After finally getting to do some proper driving with this setup and after properly bedding them in I can say its a great setup and very well matched to the wilwoods I have on the front. With cheap pads and my bias valve fully open you can really feel the rear brakes working, with better pads my setup would be improve massively. The handbrake can't lock up the wheels but its very effective for parking and while if you pull it while moving it won't lock the wheels you can definitely feel it working well. I can stop from high speeds very quickly now and the car remains very stable. Definitely a recommended setup.
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