JMortensen

You're right, I'm on drugs. 30 and 33 spline only for the 12 bolt.

A simple port match just removes the lip between the runner and the port and this is a good thing, but it kinda sounds like you really opened up the runner, which is not a good thing if you have only opened up the bottom half. In general terms you want the opening to constantly taper down from the plenum to the head. If you've opened up the ports in the head, and matched the runners to them, then your plenum end of the runners are going to be too restrictive. The idea is to get the velocity to increase all the way into the chamber. You might want to look for a die grinder with a long shaft http://shop.store.yahoo.com/bradystools/diegr14inexs.html or cut the plenum open and weld it back together. The Z ports might not be big enough to fit the long shaft of the die grinder in there.

Just to pick nits I thought the 12 bolt was 8 7/8" ring gear. But it's not the ring and pinion that gives the 12 bolt the advantage IMO. The big advantage to the 12 bolt IMO is the availability of 33 and 35 spline bolt in axles. Since we're talking about narrowing a rear end anyway, might as well step up and get the bolt ins and the bigger splines. IIRC you can get a detroit, spool, or eaton posi for the 33 or 35 spline setups. It's entirely possible that you can do the same for the 10 bolt 8.5, but I don't remember seeing them advertised back when I dealt with this stuff daily. EDIT--I see what you wrote now Mike, pinion DIAMETER is the same. Interesting, and I don't doubt you, but I saw a heck of a lot more axle failures than pinion failures.

Just guessing on the L6, but it seems logical that there would have been a L1, L2, L3, etc...

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_camshaft Sounds like Nissan cams to me, at least the L4 and L6

There are 2 different 10 bolts. The Camaro one is a 7.5" ring gear, and they are pretty weak. Trust me on this one, I used to talk to guys that had destroyed their 7.5's all day long. The truck and full size car 10 bolt is an 8.5" ring gear, better, but still uses c-clip axles and not exactly bullet proof. If you're going to narrow it, try a Moser 12 bolt. Bigger, stronger, and bolt in axles.

I think they look damn good too. The one thing I would suggest for others is that if you're going for a whole lot of negative camber, it's better to make the new arm so that at stock length the rod end is all the way in. That way you have more threads in the arm. The rule of thumb I was taught and still follow is that twice the diameter of the rod end should be screwed inside the control arm. So for a 5/8" rod end you would want 15/16" threaded into the arm. On your page you said your car was bent, so it may very well be the case that you need to make one side shorter than stock to square the car up. Also I didn't make mine but the guy who did found a DOM tube that was small enough that he was able to tap it into the cut stock control arm. It's been some years but I think it was 1" OD, can't remember the ID but there were 5/8" threaded tube ends readily available that matched up just like yours do. He just drilled a bunch of holes top and bottom and welded it at the end kinda like Terry did on his rear control arm experiment and in that way he didn't have to rebuild the bottom of the arm. Looks good though. Nice job.

I can only take so many "My left headlight is dim" or "My turn signals don't work" or "What should I do to make my car fast?" threads before I want to see if it is actually possible to hang myself with my mouse cord... No place like home is right!!!

I feel your pain, I just spent about $150 on jets. I agree the 52.5's are probably too small. The best advice I've gotten is that the car should run well and transition as well as possible with the idle jets 1.5 turns out. If you have to turn them out farther they're too small, and if you have to run them at less than 1.5 then they're too small. The Mikuni motorcycle jets are definitely different. The biggest problem with jets is that you can never be fully sure of what you have, due to the existence of people like me who own jet reams. Try wolfcreekracing.com or Nissan Comp for jets. You should be able to get them for $3 or $4 per jet. The biggest help in tuning mine came by installing an O2 sensor. I'm just using a narrowband single wire hooked up to a voltmeter, but man what a difference. Can't stress enough how much easier that makes the whole process. EDIT--Apparently you already have a WBO2. Don't know how I missed that.

Looks to me like it says "pester". Maybe it wants you to leave it alone!!!

Is there something special about this engine? Have you considered just getting a different engine? Probably a hell of a lot cheaper then what you're setting yourself up for.

The spacers are cheap and easy. Yes, it is true that if you make them too long you could have a problem. If you make them 1/8" too short, they still do their job and there is not a problem. I've seen diffs assembled with no spacers and seen them run just fine. On my stuff I wanted the spacers, and there are just a few reasons why. 1. The pilot on the R200 carrier, at least mine and Mat's, was NOT a press fit. Since the pilot wasn't a press fit, and the ring gear bolts are obviously 2mm too small, there really isn't as much centering the R200 as there is other diffs where the pilot is very tight and the ring gear gets beaten on with a dead blow hammer. Think of this like a wheel. If the wheel is not hub centric, then it should be lug centric. 2. I talked to another guy on classiczcars.com about this and he was advised to clock the ring gear so that it rested on the bolts. There is a reason for this. IF the bolts should come loose somehow and they were able to move 1mm before hitting the carrier, they'd be much more likely to snap than if they were already resting on the bolts. Unfortunately for guys like me that doesn't cover every situation. I do a lot of engine braking and that is stressing the ring gear in the opposite direction. With the spacer I'm covered in either situation. 3. It's cheap and easy to do. I think that 2126 is right that the ring gear bolt spacers are NOT absolutely necessary. But for me it was $20 worth of cheap insurance. BTW--the Power Brute is by all accounts made by the same company that makes them for Nissan.

Just changing the carrier and reusing the ring and pinion is BY FAR the easier way. Usually the backlash stays the same too, so you can even reuse the shims that come out of the 3.54 case. So the procedure is: Remove open carrier. Remove ring gear. Remove LSD. Remove it's ring gear. Put 3.54 ring gear on LSD carrier with ring gear spacers, reinstall in 3.54 housing with 3.54 shims. Check backlash. That's it.

I believe the ACT stuff comes in a kit with the T/O bearing and pilot bushing, check with your vendor on that. You've got a 50/50 chance that you'll blow the clutch master and slave when you put the heavier plate in there regardless of their condition now so be prepared for that.

Here's the essay, decide for yourself: http://www.kersplebedeb.com/mystuff/s11/churchill.html The guy is obviously intelligent. He's just wrong. I agree with Horowitz though. The academia is becoming increasingly virulent in its liberalism, and totally contrary to liberalism is trying to stifle anyone who is not a rabid socialist or marxist on campus. The problem we should be looking at is who is teaching our kids. Firing this guy for what he said isn't the answer in and of itself. If he's a crappy professor then fire him. The answer is questioning why he was hired and promoted to dept chair in the first place. I think it's because of his hyper left Native American "Red Power" history. Read the titles of the books he's written... http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/103-3467519-9908668'>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/103-3467519-9908668 EDIT--that doesn't work, but if you care go to http://www.amazon.com and look up ward churchill.

I got that link from Savage42, but it is http://www.differentials.com. Kaaz looks to be a better design with more clutch plates in it, but cheapest I've seen was ~$800, although I didn't look too hard. As to the bushings, zgeezer is right. Been discussed to death, but the basic gist is get a stick of stainless tubing 12mm OD 10mm ID and cut little pieces of to match the thickness of the carrier flange. Deburr the ends, and just put these new bushings you've made in the holes and put your bolts in. Ring gear bolt spacers done. And thanks to gad and geezer for confirming the bearings are still available.

I guess it is kinda similar to the nigerian scam. For those who hate scammers and aren't sensitive, check this out: http://www.ebolamonkeyman.com

Last time I got into a discussion with Kim I was repeatedly told that R200's have crush sleeves then finally told that the conversation was over when I continued to try and convince him otherwise. Thanks again Steve Golik (zcarnut) for finally setting me straight on that one.

My ex-boss called me a couple months ago to warn me of something similar, can't remember what country they were from but they ordered several thousands of dollars worth of crap. Turns out the credit card was fraudulent. You know who is responsible in that situation... the merchant. Since the ex-boss called, I've had at least 20 inquiries from foreigners, I just tell em that we don't do any biz outside the US.

Z-Gad, did you replace the bearing on the end of the pinion closest to the yoke? I read in another thread somewhere that they were NLA.

The P90 had a deeper chamber, so it used shorter valves. When you put in the cam tower shims, this raises the cam away from the rocker arms. Installing the longer N series valves brings the end of the valve (and the springs and retainers and lash pads) back where they need to be with respect to the cam. The valves have a longer stem, but the head is the same so the extra sticks out the top of the head, not into the chamber. Alternatively you could get gigantic lash pads, but since N heads are a dime a dozen, most just use the longer valves.

Amen, brother.

Try http://www.classiczcars.com and look at the 240K stuff. I think that might be what you're talking about.

It's a Toyota with a 22RE, and it does have a bleed hole and a brand new radiator. I've seen the thermostats that you're talking about that have like a barb on them so that if it gets over 220º or whatever it will be stuck full open. I think that is not the norm because I've never seen a factory stat set up like that, but I have seen them at the auto parts store.