JMortensen

There was a series (maybe still is?) for VW TDI's in Europe. I read that the diesels were kicking butt on the gas GTI's on road courses. I don't think that Nissan diesel is of the same ilk as a Cummins or a Powerstroke or the TDI. I drove an '87 2L turbo diesel Toyota truck about 3 months ago. Anyone who has driven a smaller turbo diesel from the mid 80's is not going to be terribly excited about the potential power from one of these motors. My friend who had the VW Rabbit truck that burned veggie oil is now working on building a new Toyota diesel engine with turbo and intercooler and a bunch of headwork. I looked at the ports on it when it was stock... UGH They just weren't built for performance. I think that engine started as a forklift motor. My friend is ***hoping*** for 150 hp up from the stock 90 or so IIRC, and he's sunk a lot of money into it. Try buying parts for these things. Maybe this new motor might have 200+ ft/lbs of torque, but it's still not going to be "fast". But hey, free fuel...

Apparently not!

http://www.rebelloracing.com/ Make sure you verify all parts to be ordered. I've ordered from them a couple times, and gotten the wrong stuff a couple times. On the plus side the guys at Rebello are super helpful over the phone. Tell them what engine, cam, chokes, carbs, etc you have and they can get you at least roughly in the ballpark. Nissan Comp has very little left, and I guess the Malvern guy died...

Is that Summit link right? 3.4 in inlet???? Anyone else ever heard of 3.4 inch exhaust??? Judging by the pic I'd guess 1 3/4 inch inlet, 4 inch outlet. Standard ricer Honda boy muffler specs, right?

IIRC, and that's a big if in this case because I'm no FI expert, the voltage dancing around is the system going in and out of closed loop. Totally normal. Normally I wouldn't post on something I know so little about, but I remember when my buddy was tuning his turbo Toyota truck it was doing the same thing and we talked about it. Sounds like you've got it tuned pretty good to me.

This used to happen to just about every 300ZX I ever saw at an autox, and just about every KA24'd car too. I think you probably just sucked air for a second around a turn. Once this happens it takes quite a while for the lifter to pump up again, and makes a hell of a racket too. There was a previous discussion about why and if hyd lifters were crappy maybe a year or more back, and I brought this VG and KA thing up and IIRC an extra quart of oil was the quick fix. I'd put another quart of oil in and see if it happens again at the next event, and consider a baffled pan from Nissan Comp or AZC as a fix.

The control arms are the same on both sides and 1 is flipped from the factory, so you are OK there. I'd change the bushings while you've got it apart. Even if you only do the rear control arms, I'd do them now. Regardless, you should coat them with anti-seize so that they come out easy if you ever need to pull the pins again. Still not sure what protrusion is there on the one side and not the other. Maybe you were just confused by the upside down swingarm. If you search for "rear control arm bushing" and click on the Search for ALL terms button you'll see some good posts about how to get the shells out of the control arms.

I tuned my triple Mikunis with an O2 worked great. Just went for .8V or as close as I could get all the way through the range. I used a multimeter like that site describes. A couple friends of mine have gauges that they bought from Summit or Jegs or whereever and they've been able to use them successfully and verify the accuracy of the gauge and O2 voltage on a dyno by comparing it to a wideband.

Sounds like you're trying to remove the spindle pins. This is one of the hardest jobs on a Z that there is, despite how easy it looks or how easy it "should" be. You simply don't need to remove the strut from the control arm to change the struts. You don't need to remove the whole control arm either. If you disconnect the brake lines, the half shafts, and the sway bar if you have one then you can undo the three nuts inside the car on the strut tops and then pull the whole control arm down and swing the top of the strut out of the fender well. Once you've got this done you can use your spring compressor and pull the spring, then put the strut top back on and bolt it back into the body. Now you have easy access to the gland nut. Loosen it, drop the swingarm back down, and you can remove the gland nut and replace the struts. Reverse, bleed the brakes, and you're done. There is a special tool which gets passed around here that is specifically for spindle pin removal. It works great. You only need to use it if you're changing the bushings though.

Are you worried about turning radius or is this supposed to be a performance thing? Most race teams get rid of the HICAS because it is extra weight and can make the handling a little funky when you push the car really hard. At least that's what I've heard and read (never had a HICAS car myself).

Man I can't wait to try mine...

They're noticeable in straight lines if you're normally getting the one wheel peel. You won't anymore. But really most of the time you're driving in a straight line, theres not enough power going to the wheels to make them slip, so most of the time the LSD does nothing at all. The reason they are usually more noticeable in turns is because the inside rear gets unloaded and spins much easier than if you were just going straight. So the car will accelerate a lot better out of turns with a LSD. Makes any car a whole different animal.

I bought a couple of 280 hubs from Juan @ JSK when I bought his brake kit. Just got into them and after cleaning off the grease I can only say holy crap are they rusty. I realize that I can get a couple more hubs cheap if need be, but I've already got these here, hence the idea. Is it possible to turn the wheel mounting flange on a hub like a rotor? I'm trying to think back to my wrenching days and I'm thinking that a standard brake lathe might not do it. I started to just sand the surface and there are some pretty big pits. I'm sure once the rust was gone it would probably only take .010 or so to get them perfectly clean and straight again. So what do you all think? Dumb idea? Not worth it?

Makes you wonder if it's going to eventually come down to "rock control".

Proper jetting is going to be hugely different based on what size engine, cam, exhaust, intake manifold, 40, 44, or 50 carbs, etc. etc. Best thing to do is find a Mikuni manual. They are not terribly detailed but they will give you an idea of what each circuit does. Also the How to Modify your Nissan/Datsun L series has a pretty good section that has most of the info that the Mikuni manual has, and a little more in some instances. The best thing I did was to install a narrow band O2 sensor. I tried for a while to use plug color etc, and I made as much progress in 2 weeks of having the O2 as I did in 2 months of screwing with it with no sensor. People will tell you that you need a wideband, but I now know of 3 other people using narrowband with good success, and 2 of them have verified the accuracy of their narrowband against a wideband on a dyno. Oh, and be prepared to shell out some cash for jets.

Well, my synopsis was a little simplistic, but I didn't want to write a book. My point was more that a large portion of both sides are unwilling to deal and are ideologically opposed to peace with the other, so it becomes a standoff that requires the death of the Jews or the abdication of relatively large parts of Palestine to bring either side to a situation where peace is even a possibility. If they were able to deal then Arafat would have signed the agreement Clinton proposed. But they weren't then and they aren't now. I just don't think that peace is going to exist there until the extremists die off, and they aren't likely to die off anytime soon since there are such a large contingent of Jews and Palestinians that raise their children to be extremists and continue on the fight. I do see small signs of hope like the Palestinians protesting the PLO about a month back I think it was. I didn't look too far into that one, they could have been protesting for the PLO's weakened stance or something, but the news portrayed it as a good thing. I guess I have a rosier outlook on Cuba. I think there are some big changes in store for Cuba when Castro bites the dust.

I've got a mark on my outer tie rod and two on my inner. One is for 1/8" toe in and one is for 1/8" toe out. I would just get to the autox early, jack up the front and change my alignment there. My main problem was getting to the autox early. I had it set so that the toe in setting had the steering wheel perfectly straight, and the toe out was just a hair off center. Worked great.

I don't like either side of the Palestinian issue, but it's pretty easy to see where Moridin comes in on that one. I just wanted to point out a couple things about Palestine... I wouldn't trust the Balfour "Declaration" to entitle me to a ham sandwich if I were in Palestine in 1917. The whole meat of the document that entitles the Jews is --get this-- 1 sentence. When I read it I get "yeah, it's ok with us if you guys want to go there just don't F anyone over", and it doesn't do a damn thing to help establish a govt or state what should be done with the Palestinians or anything. What's more it has the qualification of "...nothing shall be done which may prejudice the civil and religious rights of the non-Jewish communities in Palestine..." Clearly this didn't happen, but it was the result of both parties IMO. The Jews came in and bought up a bunch of land and irrigated it and farmed it and refused to let the Palestinians work for them and did not share in their technological advantage. The Palestinians had to keep selling more land to the Jews just to get by, but were increasingly angry about their social status and the Jews' determination not to help them. Arafat, who was (I think still is) the leader of FATAH, is a huge part of the problem. Part of the charter for Fatah reads as follows "Military defeat [of Israel] is not the sole goal in the Palestinian Liberation War, but it is the blotting out of the Zionist character of the occupied land, be it human or social." And "The Jewish state is an aberrant mistaken phenomenon in our nation's history and therefore there is no alternative but to wipe out the existential trace of this artificial phenomenon." Would YOU try to negotiate with that guy??? Sharon is a member of the Likud party, and here's a bit of their party charter "The right of the Jewish people to the land of Israel is eternal and indisputable and is linked with the right to security and peace; therefore Judaea and Samaria will not be handed to any foreign administration; between the [Mediterranean] Sea and the Jordan [River] there will be only Israeli sovereignty." Clearly the group which Sharon has aligned himself is only slightly more appeasable than Fatah. Sharon will back off when he gets Israel to be a solid sovereign nation from with no West Bank or Gaza strip, and Arafat just wants to kill every Jew in Palestine. I don't think that a lot of Americans understand what is going on there, but I think these guys are going to have to die for there to be peace. I see it similarly to Cuba. I think the situation in Cuba will probably improve 100 fold when Castro croaks.

The pinion gears have a different pitch on the teeth. Despite the fact that they both have 10 teeth they won't interchange. Just switch the ring gear as joe suggested. If this is an R200 and you have 10mm ring gear bolts on the 3.90 then you'll need ring gear bolt spacers if you are swapping to the 300ZX 3:70 LSD. I bought some from Mat73GNZ, but I'm pretty sure he's out now. What he did was to buy a piece of 12mm OD 10 mm ID tube and cut them to fit. I think he said he made enough and sold enough to make a little profit on them.

Damn dude, you are one pig-headed SOB. Just like me... The P heads have the best combo of these qualities. Peanut chamber, flat "deck" where the valves are, and a much smoother transition between the seats and the rest of the chamber. Just like the FIA heads IIRC the N heads have a crappier casting like my E31. Looking at the link below, that is definitely the case. But the casting issue and the small valves are the reasons why I was saying before that I wouldn't have sunk all that money into the E31 if I had known about the P head shaving thing when I built my engine. I spent lots of time fixing the crappy casting in the chamber, and then more time unshrouding the valves. Just take a look at the chamber shape and tell me that it's not better than your N head was before any modifications in terms of sharp edges and blending the seats into the chamber. http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html If you can honestly tell me that you think your chamber was equivalent to that stock P head from the factory then I give up.

I hate to disagree with you again freedom, but here's my take on Amend #2. The country had just fought for years to get out from under the colonial yoke by military victory over the Brits. The intention was to make sure that the people would have a method of overthrowing the new govt if the govt oppressed the people again. This is a subject that is very controversial, because laws have been passed like the 1934 National Firearms Act that said that you needed a license to own a fully automatic weapon, and the 1968 Gun Control Act which said guns should have a "sporting purpose", both of which clearly undercut the citizenry in their attempts to posess weapons capable of fighting off our own military. So the original intent of the law was to provide the citizens a means of defense against our own gov't in my opinion, and that of John Jay who IIRC wrote the damn thing, but that right has been curtailed over and over again in the last 100 years or so. Freedom is right in that there is a side benefit of making our country very difficult to invade, because any enemy force trying to get in would face not only an army of 1,000,000 soldiers or whatever it is right now, but also another estimated 145,000,000 armed citizens, and you can use a gun to protect your family, and for sporting purposes, etc.

Yeah, if there's one place I'd like to be as a Palestinian who was repeatedly questioned by the American authorities, it's Saudi Arabia. He picked just the right time to go too, now that they are cracking down on foreign terrorists. He probably got some serious questioning here, who knows what kind of methods they'll use to question him there. Makes my dangly parts dangle a little less just thinking about it.

This was discussed fairly recently, but if you weld ABOVE the spring perch then it's not really so critical. I sectioned mine about 1.5" from the top of the tube just because that's what I had seen done before, but I think it was Terry who pointed out that the spring perch sits quite a bit lower than that, so the load of the chassis weight won't be carried by the part you've welded. You'll have some lateral loading and some pulling from the strut extension, but there won't be nearly as much load if you do the sectioning up top as there would be if you followed JohnC's post on sectioning and sectioned right where the new spring perch was going to go. Also if you did weld up high and had the settings too hot, your weld is easily accessible to be ground away. If it were to break, the suspension wouldn't come apart because almost the whole length of the strut would still be captured in the tube, and it would make a hell of a racket to let you know something is wrong. My $.02

Nevermind. Same compression ratio, same valve size, no pinging, same power output. I'd still think that the E88 might have had an advantage in the combustion chamber shape, especially with the effect of the overlap due to the big sharp ridge between the valve seats that I spent hours getting rid of on my E31 (mine was 1/4" tall in some spots). The E88 I have is perfectly flat there, so the overlap would be a lot more effective. Maybe the quench in the E31 made up for that. All hypotheticals.