JMortensen

That is cool as ****, if you know what I mean.

Forget the cherry bomb. Most of them are HORRIBLE for flow. Really horrible. If you look inside them the pipe that goes through doesn't just have holes drilled in it. Sometimes it's more like a cheese grater, where the ends of each hole is bent into the stream of the exhaust flow. Even though this doesn't look like a big restriction and you can see right through the thing, it is a very big restriction. You want CHEAP and decent quality? Last Dynomax SuperTurbo I bought was $29.49 from http://www.jcwhitney.com. It's a GOOD muffler with minimal backpressure, and cheap.

Stock is close to 1.25mm. Not going to make a really noticeable difference and if anything the higher comp would make you that much more likely to ping. Ask Bastaad what to expect hp wise. I want to say he made 170whp with basically the same setup, but that's all from memory. I thought there was a rule, like 15hp per point of comression. If ON3GO made 145 stock, and you've basically raised the compression 1.5 points, you should make ~165 or so. Cam, porting, etc will add to that.

When searched exactly as I described above (these are SOME from the first 2 pages that looked particularly good): http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=30602&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=29266&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=19884&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=20390&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=20736&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=20899&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=21616&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=21661&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=14323&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=14127&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=22227&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=22074&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=24591&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=26360&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=28282&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=28973&highlight=turbo+stroker

Uh, don't the round port heads have the steel liners in them? And aren't they cast in really deep? I think you'd be better off cleaning up the exhaust ports and running your square port header. IIRC the square port header will seal a round port head, but you get a huge flow restriction if you use a round port header with a square port head. I'd say clean it up and run it, or get another head.

Try again. Go to the search screen under my sig. Use the words turbo and stroker as the search key. Click on the "search for all terms" button underneath where you enter in the search terms. Then click on 6 cyl Tech Board. You'll get lots of good info there. I didn't try in the supercharger/turbo forum, but a lot of stuff is geared towards V8's here. Look around a bit. Do some creative searching. You'll find what you're looking for.

Use the search function. Click on the link in my sig. Tons of info on turbo strokers here.

205s on 7s 225s on 8s Keep looking though. Just search the web for "custom circle track steel wheels spun shell" or some combination thereof...

If he's not saying that it requires 105 octane gas, then I'm doubting that it has 330 hp.

My formula: Permatex Ultra Grey, about 1/8" thick bead, hand tighten. Let sit for 1 hour or so until it starts to get hard, then tighten like normal. Worked for me on my Toyota and both Z motors.

I was immediately reminded of this:

So ZR8ED, DOES IT WORK???

Well I wasn't going to say anything, but I've been using Paulsens on mycar for... well... forever. I bought them because that's what my friend had, and I didn't know any better. Now I wish I had considered some lighter wheels. Diamond Racing Wheels http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/ has some lighter options, still cheap, and there are many many more out there. I can tell you that I've slammed curbs on the track at 90+ and never bent a rim, but if I were to do it over I'd go for a more fragile but lighter wheel. I'd think you could find a 15 x 7 at about 15lbs or maybe even less in steel. Rotating weight makes a big difference.

So, uhh, squirrely kids then...

Squid=squirrely kid. Commonly applied to ricer types who would show up at an autox in their slammed Honda on 18's with a HUGE attitude and then be utterly shocked that their carbon fiber dash applique didn't get them TTOD.

I've swapped them from one head to another, so that whole "they're align bored on the head" line that people believe is BS IMO. More urban legend. Like spork said, just rotate the cam to make sure everything moves freely, and heck, you should ALWAYS do that anyway any time the head comes off. My first cam change was the ultimate supposed no-no. I pulled the cam towers and cam and put the new cam towers and cam on from a different engine. Never had a problem with that headgasket either (the other part of the no-no in that situation). Eventually pulled that engine when the balancer came apart on me and ruined the front of the crank some 40K miles, probably 60 autoxs and 10 track days later...

They're in every auto parts store I've ever been to. Must be one of those "Better not Metric with Texas" things. Try online? If you can't find a whole tube, you can use the SAE line with a 10mm x 1.0mm end, and just bend and flare it yourself.

Sissy.

That's not a bumper over-rider or sissy bar, is it?

ZXT is rear steer I believe...

I was thinking about this last night. I used a Stone gasket because they've been pretty universally available and always very good quality. Now I'm thinking that if I used an HKS metal gasket for the stroker buildup I could have done more unshrouding and more notching on the block, and gotten presumably better flow out of the head. It does have larger diameter bores, right? In a case like clarkspeed's that might be just the ticket...

I agree, but basically I just did as much as I could to mirror the head on the block. Nice rounded edges, etc. When I did the head, I set the headgasket on the head and traced it. I cut as close to the fire ring as I could. I did the exact same thing on the block. On an L28, there's really NOT that much material to remove. Not at all time consuming to get it done. Not like my old buddy's L16. We took LOTS of metal out of that one. Jon PS DAW--I hugged a tree last year at about 20 mph on my mountain bike and lost my short term memory for a week, so I can sympathize with your memory problem, although it sounds like mine was kinda opposite. I just couldn't put 2 thoughts together because I'd forget the second one before I said it. I wish you the best with that

Use the search function. There is a guy here in the middle of a swap now. A link to the search that works is at the bottom of my sig.

http://www.pythonline.com/plugs/idle/FCCSong.mp3

This is as low as I would go and I had my pivots raised on 250/45/15s with camber plates and bump steer spacers. This autox was really smooth. When it was over I'd raise the car up about 2" and drive home. With the sectioned struts I could conceiveably go 1.5" lower than this and still have suspension travel. I am going to try and raise the control arm pivots more, we'll see what happens... That first Z looks like they cut the springs, took the usable part of the spring and threw it in the garbage and put it back together with the unusable part. If it wasn't on the bumpstops just sitting there it was definitely on them under accel, braking, cornering, etc.