JMortensen

Square handles better. Z's understeer out of the box. Putting smaller tires on the front makes it worse.

Cantilever slicks are weird, the sidewall folds over on itself and so the tires are much wider than the wheels. They look the opposite of stretched tires (see below). I haven't run them myself, but I'm pretty sure you can only get them in bias ply and they need very little camber. I did run 10" radial slicks on an 8" wheel, they were floppy in slaloms but still faster than street tires. zredbaron has 245s on 16x8s A7s and they are definitely pinched onto the wheels but they work pretty well, not nearly as floppy as my slicks were. Hoosier will tell you that the tread should be .5 or 1" narrower than the rim width, FWIW. If you are buying wheels, you should follow that guideline. If you already have wheels, sometimes you have to run what you have. Worse things have happened. By way of comparison, my Konig Rennsport 17x8s are 17 lbs and mounted with a racy 200TW tire it is 39 lbs. Slicks are built lighter but ~40 lbs for reasonably priced wheels and tires in a 225/45/17 is not bad, IMO.

225/45/17s are the same diameter as 225/40/18. I switched from 18s to 17s for ride quality and wheel/tire weight on my GTI. Lost 15 lbs PER WHEEL going from 18s and Pilot Sport all season 550 TWs to Konigs and Conti Extreme Contact Force. Obviously you can get higher quality wheels and all of that, but if you're not going super wide on the wheels there's quite a few tires available in 17s.

I bent the 240 pedal a bit so my throttle cable went through the firewall opening correctly. Your's looks like a 280 pedal, much thicker metal. I wouldn't be afraid to bend it. If the stop and cable are adjusted, it should only ever be fighting the spring tension on the throttle body.

Try an older 911, they're ridiculous enough that they sell gas pedal extensions and blocks to make it easier to heel toe. I like your solution, though the spacer looks thin. Just make sure after you install that you're getting full throttle and not overextending the cable. Will probably need to adjust the stop.

The MR2 struts will still see friction at the piston and upper strut bushing. Don't imagine it will be a problem to run them without oil since they won't be doing anything other than taking the side loads from the struts and you've eliminated all the heat from them actually damping. Very cool idea.

KW is supposed to be top notch. Dude's background music is super annoying.

Seems like it should do the same thing. IIRC the adjustable slave has about 1" of threaded section. Couldn't tell you how much of that is unusably short, I seem to remember running around the middle of the adjustment. Could probably get a longer bolt and cut and make a new pin if necessary. EDIT-at some point the angle on the fork is going to be bad and that might cause wear...

What thickness polycarbonate? I think most of the sanctioning bodies require 1/4" for front, but you can use whatever you like on sides and rear (most use 1/8).

One way limits slip on accel (common for FWD). 1.5 way limits some on decel, more on accel. 2 way does both accel and decel equally. FWIW, a limited slip doesn't "lock" but a locker does. That means even if you lift one tire off the ground, the tire on the ground will still get power. A limited slip limits, unload a tire and it will spin. High end 1.5 ways are adjustable by changing the ramp angles on the cross pin shaft. If you do sim racing you can see adjustments for percentage lock under accel and decel, that's adjusting the slip for each. Here is a screen from Assetto Corsa. This fully adjustable limited slip is set up basically like a 2 way. Should probably back off that decel a bit, but it's fairly stable under braking. 2 ways are nice for drifters because they tend to make the car loose on corner entry. If I jacked up the power and coast settings the car would act more like a welded rear end. If I lowered them all the way it would be like having no LSD at all. Helicals can be set up to do any of the 3 options, 1, 1.5, or 2 way.

Roof mounted pedals was a bold choice.

I think you'll have a hard time finding flares built to the precision you'd need to take advantage of that tiny gap from the rivnut being reduced. I only have experience with the zccjdm flares and the MAS flares from back in the day, but neither of those was a super tight fit. Another option is to silicone them on. Saw a video of a guy in Japan doing a RWB 911 and he just used a bead of black silicone to fix the seam, looked good to me, but I don't mind the welting either and just have the flares screwed on with nothing at all to fix the gaps on my own car, so YMMV.

I think you're probably more likely to warp the sheet metal welding than installing rivnuts, and rivnuts can be easily removed if they get messed up or cross threaded. Rivnuts are easier and work great. I'm sure the welded nuts will work, but I just don't see the benefit.

You can also slot or redrill the inner pivot on the crossmember, move the LCA pivot up and this changes bumpsteer and RC.

I didn't summon you, troll. Go away.

Lightened 432R with dual exhaust (adding weight back?) complete with S20 and crap Nismo roll bar: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10159065665906559&set=pcb.1922406734626606

If you're bolting in a strut brace and have a welder, would it be possible to weld up a better brace, either off of the strut tower or off of your braces to the firewall? I think the idea of a master cyl brace is a good one, just not convinced that the bracket they're selling would do much.

Yeah, I'd learn to live with it, especially if you're going to lighten up the flywheel (which is very worthwhile).

Yep. Can add that the noise is a lot more prevalent in cars with light flywheels. Here's a thread from Miata.net where they talk about the rattle associated with light flywheels, with one person describing it as I usually do, sounding like marbles rolling around inside the transmission. I think the consensus is that it's gear lash, and the gears in the trans are rocking back and forth between power strokes, so the lighter the flywheel and the slower the idle speed and the lopier the cam, the more likely you are to hear it. https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=732227&highlight=flywheel+rattle

Can be improved upon by tweaking the angle of the louvers. Bigger slots and more vertical leading louvers looks uglier, works better. Here is a video from AJ Hartman who makes CF wings and diffusers and splitters, and he tests in the wind tunnel with the Race Louvers all the time. He doesn't give away all the info, but he does give you the basic gist of what they found. Found one specifically on louvers:

Watch some Holdener videos. He states the lift and duration. They're not "all the same" but any big cam manufacturer should be able to sell you a cam that makes power on an LS1 and if you stick with similar lift and duration, you'll get similar results. It's not hard to get a big bump.

Can't help you on that one. I think it might be in "How to Modify" but I sold that book 10 years ago.

26" is big for a Z. If you pull the tire back you're reducing caster. Might work, but will increase understeer.

I've used one before. It's impossible to cut a straight line without clamping a straight edge to it. If you were cutting out a bunch of weird shaped panels it would be a great choice. Produces tiny crescent moon shaped chunks that are sharp AF. Don't use without pants that are long enough to cover the tops of your shoes. For my $.02, I prefer the sheet metal shears (like scissors) for straight lines: https://www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-air-shears-98580.html When I have to cut curves I use a bandsaw or a jigsaw. They won't cut a curve as nice as the nibbler, but they're a lot easier to control and it's easy enough to sand the rough edges with a belt sander.

I doubt that a flap right in front of the cowl would turn the positive pressure area into a negative one, maybe as you said, change the pressure enough to get the air to flow. You could think if the windshield as being a flap that is 20x as tall and I think the windshield would overpower the flap. It is something that could be easily tested though; just tape a piece of angle to the hood in front of the cowl vents. Probably easier than making a block off plate to close up the firewall.