randy 77zt

Since the diff does not move as much as a live axle car the drive shaft should not need very much travel on the splines.I am guessing but if the drive shaft was fully inserted it should only needed to be backed out .5" to .75" before bolting onto the diff.Maybe try a oem nissan bushing.Try www.transtar1.com for parts

Its the countershaft bearings-4th gear is 1to1 and does not load them.Are you rolling the dice and buying used trannys from pick&pull?I damaged a trans by letting the speedo gear drive leak-it took out the countershaft bearings.Unless you do your own trans work or have it rebuilt at a good shop you really dont know what you are getting.I consider any used trans a core trans until I open it to check it out.could possably be a chipped tooth on 5th.These trans are easy to rebuild/repair.

Correct

Check with a test light at the back of the switch.The system works by swapping the polarity on the window motor.The window motor is not grounded where it mounts.

You can do what %99 of the rest of us do and wait for the ups & fed ex truck.Even where I live in California(300 miles from socal) everything has be delivered.In the mid west everything has an american motor in it.At least the girls dont worry about tans so much there.

I have a coil pack with harness plug-send pm if interested

I have a set of 280zxt axles with good boots for sale-pm if needed.

I had problems with walbro pumps when I had my turbo z.They will not pull fuel upwards and need to be mounted lower than the tank .If you study the oem fuel system you will notice that the pump location is lower than the tank.I ended up running a Bosch 044 pump mounted in the stock position with a Earl's 80 micron filter before the pump.Then I changed the oem line to 3/8" with a gm fuel filter and Earl's fittings with pushloc hose.The walbro 255 pumps are adaptations from an intank application.They work well in a tank but they aerate the fuel when they get hot-not mounted in a tank to be cooled by fuel.I used to idle my car whille working with the efi software and the fuel + lines would get hot.When you get 10% ethanol your boiling point on your fuel drops.Nice thing about a 77 tank is that you can stuff 3/8" pushloc hose with a clamp on it.

I have worked in the auto repair business for years as a tech.The problem with older cars and specialized work is that there is no accurate way to estimate this kind of work.Most shops use time standards for each repair published by Motor or Mitchell.There are no time standards for restoration work.Any shop owner/manager would be guessing at the labor time at the start of the job.You either have to be very well off to hire a restoration shop or do the work yourself.

Unless you get a complete new set of injectors from a trusted source you need to send the injectors out for a cleaning and flow test.Places that can do this-Kinsler,Rc engineering or someplace that can flow test injectors.I f you buy somebodies used injectors you asking for trouble.Most injectors are manufactured by Bosch,Siemens,lucas.When limited class racecars are built(scca stock class) they will buy many injectors and bench test them to came up with a highly matched set.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/77233-30-1-tooth-wheel-with-cherry-hall-effect-sensor/ The easiest cheap way to do this.The sensor in an industrial hall effect sensor and is easy to mount.I had old ms1 so I used 6 chevy lsx coils running in waste spark mode-the ms1 didnt have enough outputs for a full sequential system.The edis is old school stuff and there are easier ways to do this with modern parts.If you want to test your trigger wheel set up the ms will drive the stock zxt coil/ignitor thru the small yellow wire at the ignitor.If you want to run a full sequential efi system you can convert the 81zxt distributor into the cam angle sensor with a small magnet and a vr type sensor mounted into the 81zxt dizzy.The edis coils throw a good spark but you need 3 power transistors to drive the coil pack.My goal was to run the least amount of parts with everything made at home.

I have a set of 81-83zxt axles with good boots ready to run.pm if interested

You need the vacuem bottle plus there should be a check valve in the line leading to it.It might be better to start over with a vintage air or other street rod system that uses r134.I dont know about running r134 in the old system but I do know that r134 will gell up the old r12 refer oil .If you try to run r134 the system will have to be completely cleaned and a new reciever-dryer unit installed.Rumor has it that r134 in being replaced for eco reasons.

I ran 6 gm ls coils in wasted spark fired directly by the MS.There are many different ways to make a spark.I did this with a 30/1 wheel made from removing teeth from a 81zxt crank wheel.Make sure that the b+ supply to your ignition system can handle the amp draw of your system.Not the oem coil b+ wire.

http://www.kinsler.com/page--Home-Page--13.html I built my own fuel rail with extruded rail from these guys.

http://www.chiefautomotive.com/pulling/titan.asp For those members that would like to learn about frame/unibody correction.

If the shop is really picky and wants to make sure they do the job correctly the shop will mount the car on a frame straightening rack/table and check for frame alignment problems before adding any new parts.An example of what not to do-putting ther car on mismatched jackstands on an uneven floor and welding the frame rails in.You will probably weld in a twist into the unit body.If the car was put on a frame table to have the rails welded in a $800 to $1k estimate would be fair.

Most body shops and repair shops dont like working on old/hobby cars.They over-estimate to insure profit.If the car is up high enough so it is easy to work on you can prefit the frame rails to make sure all surfaces are at bare metal.Try calling a mobil welder-you will probably get charged by the hour and get a good job done.If the metal burns away from rust while welding then you know you will have more work involved.

I have a pair if tuffz's deal does not work out.

http://aviaid.com/ There probably is not many members here that have even looked at a dry sump installation .Unless you find some good used parts I am guessing $4k to $6k .Canton is showing a pan for an ls app.

Who built those yellow race vettes?They would know.Sounds like custom oil pan,multi stage pump and toothed belt time + mucho $ in Earl's plumbing.

The 2013 vette grand sport is supposed to have a factory dry sump system.My suggestion would be oem chevy parts on the motor. Then build my own plumbing,tank & cooler.I would put the tank where the battery used to be.At 1.6 g are you hitting the gym?

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/

Get a wiring diagram for the car and study it.

Cat life depends on the engine tune.If you burn the fuel in the engine the cat will last a long time.