randy 77zt

The ecm probably has a wire that needs to be fed 12v while cranking.I have another 81zxt crank sensor.I think it is just 2 vr coils-1 that reads 90 teeth and 1 that reads the 3 steel teeth.On my 77 there was a plug under the steering column that had +12battery,+12v key+12v cranking

If I sell something on here I usually email or pm the tracking# the day I ship it

The spacers are .8" thick

Very front heavy -and when you lower it it wont improve because the roll center is too low.makes a good daily driver but as far as precise handling I wouldnt waste any money on it.

Here is where electronics (efi) come in.The ability to retard the ignition timing under boost.I run. my turbo at 20 btdc at anything after 5 lbs boost.A distributor set up for this engine would need a vacuem can that could pull about a 12 degree timing swing(difference between cruise and on boost).If the car is tuned on a dyno the dyno operator usually installs some kind on knock sensing on the engine-there is a sweet spot the tuner looks for.Forged pistons are not a crutch for poor tuning.Oem turbo pistons will work at 16-18 lbs boost if the engine is tuned correctly.Usually at highway speeds an most engines are set up to run at 32-36 btdc degrees timing .Say you had the car set up for 22 btdc under boost.the vacuem can on the dizzy would add the 10 degres under cruise.If the dizzy was set for 8 degrees centrifical advance+14 degrees initial that would give you 32 total at cruise + retard at boost.+ on a holly 4 bbl that is on a boosted motor usually the power valve is referenced to boost

i did an 81 swap into my 77 and I ran 20btdc.the zxt ecm's dont have much of a timing curve built into them.factory spec was 20 for a 81.I ran 12-13 psi boost at road race tracks no problem.make sure you have new or flow tested injectors.a lean cylinder will preignite.when I installed my engine I used new injectors.

Maybe do some reasearch on a touch-up paint site for the code #?

If you find a bmw that is the correct color look on the plate in the drivers door jam-there should be a color code # on the plate.the autobody supply house can mix the paint up to that number.

I have toyota calipers/vented 84 300zx rotors on my car.with the rotors drilled and running porterfield r4 pads I have no problems at thunderhill or laguna.I run oem ford brake fluid..my car is not light-1977 turboed with factory a/c.I got the spacers from modern motorsports and sourced all other parts locally.I run off the shelf organic pads when not set up for a track day-less rotor wear .I have no trouble hauling the car down a freeway off ramp at 100+mph and braking at the end even with the street pads.

You will get lots of opinions here.I have repaired autos for years as a professional auto tech.If the original strut housings have been cut up/modded start with a set in original condition.Install some good quality cartridge inserts in the strut housings and put the oem springs back on and drive until your budget will allow some more upgrades.The torsional stiffnes of the car could be questionable.Installing a very riged suspension could cause structure problems.Coil overs would allow you to adjust your ride heigth .Just dont pick a set of stiff springs.

I used to be a tech for ford dealers so I know the parts well.I was thinking of another way to attack this problem.the 2000- ford explorers had irs rear axle with 8.8 diff.Build new macpherson strut housing/bearing carrier that attaches to the lower control arms. Use the new modular wheel bearings-like the mustang irs rear ,explorer.the modular wheel bearings will bolt to a flat steel plate.A company like mosier can build the correct length axle shafts to use the ford cv joints.Building new mac strut housings would allow you to use penske or king shocks that could be custom valved.The explorer 8.8 diff will bolt to a z moustache bar.

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My victim-1995 nissan pathfinder driver's side exhaust manifold to cylinder head broken stud -front most stud.Removed a/c compressor/alternator/bracket for access.Tried drilling and using some kind of L/h drill bit but I broke the bit off in the hole.Time for lunch and some research.Found this video.Back to work.Its kind of a b$#%^ doing this in the vehicle.Knowing the welder wouldnt do anyrhing with the aluminum I cranked up the mig and went for it.Washer to stud weld did not penetrate good enough but it pulled out the broken drill bit.Round 2-turned up the heat a bit and grabbed another washer and nut.Worked perfect and the cylinder head does not have any kind of damage.

The Bay Bridge has been closed on 3 day weekends because the east 1/2 between Oakland and Treasure Island has a new span being built because of earthquake standards.The west 1/2 will not be replaced and that is what Mr Block was running on.San Francisco is a very fun place to drive.I think Pastrana should have been on a super-motard bike running the jumps side by side.

Another member on here put 2 280zxt throttle bodies on a su manifold.I would like to try this manifold with 2 mikuni's from a harley

If I had to piece complete system together I would probably go to a company like vintage air and just replace all the old z stuff with better parts that flow more air with less horse power used.R134 is being phased out so if i was going to spend money on a system I would find out what the new refregerent will be.

Some systems blend cold air and warm air with a door called the blend air door.This could be stuck in an incorrect position.Is the suction line out of the evap core cold?Is water going through the heater core when its not supposed to be?Find a service manual with diagram of airflow and water flow and vacuem control

1 of the things I have done on engine swaps is to cut the crimped on lines(that aluminum crimp hose clamp)off with a die grinder/cutting wheel .then get some bulk hose of the correct i.d. and install the parts back into the car and slid on the new correct length hoses that you made.If you take your new hoses the a a/c shop or hydraulic hose shop they can put new crimps on to your custom fit hose.If you can find the original a/c compressor from the rb20 mount it and work from the motor to the car.

I run a 83zx na 5spd with 3.7 rear gear .The 81-83 zx na trans had closest ratio spread and best 5th for freeway use.The original 77 5 spd had a wierd gap between 2nd & 3rd gear that was very noticeable at infineon.+ the 77 didnt have a good 5th for freeway use-only like a 400 rpm drop.Why no zxt t5?The zx na trans shifts better and has closer ratios.I built my car for open track days-not drag racing.I have a zxt t5 bellhousing-allways wanted to adapt a wc t5 out of a mustang to it

There is a 1972 down the street with a very straight body but the sun has burned up the interior.car is very stock except for rumor that the engine was rebuilt to a 2.8l.It is in modesto ca.

Many newer cars and suv's have these hub units.You might not be able to get 1 without a abs tone ring but sometimes the aftermarket does this to lower the amount replacement part numbers that have to be carried.There should be some # on the bearing unit.Probably a c4 vette front bearing.

What is your a/f ratio?It will ping if it is lean.Have all of your injectors been flow tested?

I agree on disconnecting the accel pumps and get your part throttle a/f worked out.there is a leak/bypass jet in the bottem of the float bowl that can be used to change the time length of the pump shot.Probably if you make the car drive smoothly rolling on the throttle and add just enough pump shot so you can stab the throttle with out a stumble it will be right the a/f will be correct.

Most of the guys on here dont talk motorcycle but I have a few.I think you are a bit large on the main jets I would try 168-165.You really need to install a wide band o2 or you will be chasing problems for ever.I have a 41 fcr laying atound for my honda xr650r but i havent installed it yet.

I used to do smogs in cali but I dont know what oregon tests for.If its just HC & CO put enough ignition timing on it to run as smooth as possable and lean it out-but just before a lean miss.I run my l28 turbo at 18btdc .Also run the idle up to 1000 rpm or so if they will allow it.If the cat is hot it should pass