randy 77zt

Another member posted a link to a video of a mazda rotary with the injectors above the throttle blades squirting down velocity stacks.It was about a month ago in the non tech forum.Usually you only see this set up with the velocity stacks in vertical position only.The gasoline wont stay suspended in the air flow if the stacks are horizontal

Wish I could win the lottery and buy a new GMPP motor-Gm will peobably sell these in a crate.

Any engine machine shop should have these.Best to send the block out to a machine shop to be hot tanked after the plugs are removed.$40 or so isnt much for a the block to completly stripped inside and out.

The cranky old dipshits had to learn the hard way before the internet was invented.Knowledge was gained by by hard work and sacrafice-probably by doing **** jobs as an apprentice for another cranky old dipshit.The video game generation wants to be spoon fed thier free info.

This wont solve your problem.learning how to tune and set up your engine for your application will.Sounds like somebody got a summit racing catalog and bought a whole bunch of parts and hoped it would work.Its probably running too rich on the a/f mixture and the ignition curve hasnt been set up in the distributor.+ you need a 3.55 or 3.31 rear gear .If it was running correctly you wouldnt have to give it much throttle to drive it.

I would guess that alot of the vendors for z parts have full time jobs and do thier parts business when they can.I have been selling extra parts I have laying around and just boxing and shipping parts takes alot of time.

I wouldnt be surprised if insurence companies are investigating everything these days.Last spring a large aquaduct/canal was drianed by my house to look for a body.There were 40+ vehicles in the canal -all reported stolen.Funny thing was most still had the key in the ignition.

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This is a good application for an old laptop-use it to tune the miata.The challenge is to tune it for a good daily driver thats gets good fuel milage and idles and runs good in traffic.If you turn into a perfect tune freak you will probably data log your drives to work.It might make 30 mpg.

I cant find the spec but I think the oem thickness spec was 4.25" measured from the valve cover gasket to the head surface.Goto your local tool store and get 1 of those digital calipers.If you measure your head and subtract that measurement from the oem spec you will find what has been milled off.There is a mark on the cam retainer plate and a notch on the back of the cam sprocket.The notch on the cam sprocket should be even or slightly farther clockwise than the mark on the cam plate.If that is the case then the cam timing is not retarded .If it fails this check try advancing the cam timing with the extra holes in the cam sprocket.If you shim the head you will need custom lash caps on the valves-and this is a whole new set of problems.Been there done that.

Its not an old pontiac fiero?

I made a shift rod with some 3/8 rod,a thread dye,and 2 3/8 heim joints on a car I built for a friend.You can get a steel rod in 3' lengths at orchard supply.The rod can be bent in a vise.

Wiring of ford o2 sensors=white wires are for a heater ,black - signal ground,grey = signal.Wide band is a different animal.I think the used wide ban I have uses 5 wires.

Any members use this kind ot service?I dont have anything complicated-just need 40gb for a single desktop computor.

Look up a company called Copart.They handle the sale of totaled cars for insurence companies.On thier website they list the location of the cars and thier sale day.you have to register with them to bid though.I found brokers on the internet that will do the bidding for you for a fee ($200) but I cannot vouch for thier reliability brcause I havent tried this yet.there is another big player called LKQ.They sell parts retail and buy alot of late model wrecks to part out.Both of these companies are squeezing the old school wreckers out of business.Here in central california you cant really find late model wrecks at the local mom&pop yard.

The headers also have to have a bar exemption label-a sticker that says they where tested to not effect the emissions.To not leak the flange has to be same thickness of the intake manifold.I would resell that part in my opinion.I used have a smog license in cali

Where in the USA will you be running sustained speeds long enough to need this?WIil this car be run in the Silver State Classic in Nevada?On the east coast there is a radar cop every 2 miles.

On my old z (I sold it) I raised the front roll center by relocating the control arm mounting hole on the cross member up 3/4" and increased the track width by 3/4" with the relocation mod.I welded a thick washer on both sides of the new hole for more strength.I didnt use those aftermarket bump steer spacers.I heated the outer tie rod ends to get rid the bend on the end and make the tie rods run straight.When the car was on its wheels the front control arms ran parallel to the ground.The tie rods ran parallel to the lower control arms.Actually at normal ride height my front lower control arms were lower at the ball joint end very slightly.I came to this idea by reading the old book called how to make your car handle.And after lowering a few fox body mustangs and finding they looked cool but still handled like dog doo.After playing monkey-see-monkey-do it took me 3 years of track days at 3-4 days a year of parts swapping to be able to run decent lap times and to like the car setup.I know changing the roll center is not allowed by scca and nasa for the improved touring classes.But I was building a track day/street car and didnt care.

Here in california we play with desert race trucks.They use seat belt webbing to limit suspension droop.chains and cables are noisy/heavy + no give when the limit is hit-as in a jump http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/Limiting-Strap.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=4145

The filde wire will work-you assign its output in the software.All of your sensor grounds need to run all the way back to the ecm-do not depend on engine or car bodies for a ground.you need to run #14 wire from the battery - to the ground pins on the ecm.then ground all the sensors back to the ecm ground pins

I got mine at pick&pull.kind of a dirty job.

I have a set with some early modern motorsport adaptors -send me a pm

The ems should be able to fire the stock coil/ignitor-I did this with a ms1.The small gauge yellow wire at the ignitor is the trigger wire.I gutted a stock tps and used it for a mounting plate for 240SX tps

C5 vette had the trans in the back-its a transaxle.Use the search

Problem with a z is that the whole car is narrow and small-you would need some wide fender flares or cut the car down the middle to make it wider.