randy 77zt

Thought about the newer 3.5l ford v6 mustang engine?There is supposed to be an s30 some where in the sf bay area with 1 in it .Nice free reviing dohc engine with 300 hp.First year used was 2010.In a light car you need a free revving engine.

Got 1 -check your pm

I have wondered how a car like this would respond to some very premium shocks like penske's in an effort to make the suspension soak up bumps while keeping the car level .I am over having a car that rides like a skate board.Being able to tweek the rebound and compression dampening knobs and slam on a set of tires for a track day would make life easy.Sway bars seem to be a band aid for a poorly designed car.

I dont know about socal but I got mine at Kinsler.

I was a suspension/brake tech at a ford dealer for many years.When I would have a track day coming up for my car I would do a track day set-up -Basically a special 4 wheel alignment just for the weekend .Then on monday or tuesday the car would go back on the rack for a daily driver alignment.This was basically just pulling out negative camber to a more street based setting.Having a nice laser alignment rack to use makes things easy.Where I live its hard to find any shops interested in doing anything close to custom work.Most of the employees at auto repair shops in my town get less than $20 /hr and are brain dead zombies that dont care about anything.

I dont think any of these where made commercially.All where custom made by the owner or a fab shop hired by the owner.Many people that have made them have had cracking problems and gaskit sealing problems.Get some catalogs that the race car builders use.Not Summit or those trashy tuner mags from the grocery store.You have to build parts for Z's.

With the ford 8.8 and custom uprights you could use modern 5 lug sealed bearing hubs and all ford cv joints.A company like Mosier can make custom length axles to go between the cv's.This would eliminate all old nissan parts.A trick upright could be designed to use a ford explorer or cobra mustang sealed bearing hub assembly and have mounting ears for Willwood or some kind of aftermarket brake caliper.The sealed bearing assemblies mount to a flat surface with 3 or 4 big bolts.

Some aftermarket bellhousing maker has to make a bell housing for this.I have heard of the ford t5 being used behind a chevy with the correct bellhousing.Alot of people talk down about the t5 saying its not strong enough.If you shock load something hard enough you will break it-as in drag racing.I put a wc close ratio kit in a 88 mustang t5 trans and the owner was drag racing it.engine was a ford 302 built to 347 with a blower.The trans made 80 runs before a problem occured.upon teardown it was found that there wasnt a pilot bearing in the crank-owner malfunction.If I was building a Z to be used as a sports car I would be looking for a t5 first.Unless the car was being used on freeways daily at high speed (70+ mph) I wouldnt spend the money for a t56.

I think it shares motor/trans with Mazda 3-which could be another possability.

On most modern cars when you hit the a/c button the button is connected directly to the ecm for the engine.The engine ecm controls the cooling fans and the a/c compressor.Why-engine speed-up on a/c request is obvious.But the ecm does things that most people do not notice-like cut the a/c clutch at WOT throttle and kill the fans at cruising speed even if the a/c is on.A/c will require a very well designed fan/shroud system.

I heard they have an appitite for rear tires.Best of luck with your new(slightly used) car.

Best set up is a puller fan mounted to a shroud the covers the whole radiator core.Just mounting a fan with those zip-tie gizmos is asking for trouble-those zip-tie things will eventually wear a hole the radiator core.

My opinion-a VW TDI 1.9 would make a good daily driver motor for a early 70-74 Z.If I was to do this I would buy a complete wrecked VW and get a very good wire harness book for the VW wreck.I have done engine/harness swaps and ended up spending more time removing the wire harness from the donor car and labeling wire with masking tape than the time I spent installing the donor motor into the new car.Hanging an electronic gas pedal is only about a 1/2 hour job.The hardest part of the job is taking the time to learn the donor cars electronics/wire harness.I would build a crossmember just to support the engine and cut the oem z mounts off.I would switch the z heater system out to an aftermarket system like vintage air and use the a/c compressor on the VW engine.

I had problems with walbro pumps loosing pressure at anything over 12lbs boost with 440cc injectors.They really arent designed to pull any vacuem at all and will fail from cavitation.The oem fuel pump mounting point on the 280z will actually gravity feed a pump.I switched to a Bosch 044 pump and never had problems again.

I have the sensor+ac bracket $30+ shipping

The main problem with shipping is fuel.I sold my z and I delivered it my self .1 way the trip was 2000 miles.I towed the car with a tow bar behined my ford e150 van so I wouldnt have a trailer to deal with on the way back.At 15 mpg I was at $1000 for just fuel on a 4100 mile tound trip.I was gone 7 days total and used 4 motel rooms.If you can get a car shipped from socal to houston for $700 that shipper really isnt making that much money.Usually these guys use a 1 ton pick up with a 3 car gooseneck trailer.

Kind of like the pogue vapor carburator?Sittng around a campfire I noticed its the vapors coming from the wood after it is heated that burn.Modern cars are doing this by direct injection into the cylinder or aiming the fuel injector on top of the intake valve.If you aimed 1 or 2 fuel injectors on a hot spot in an intake manifold using a modern efi system them ran a wideband o2 sensor for feedback into the ecm you might be able to get an engine to fire a very lean mixture.Another idea for a high mpg car is an electric car that has an onboard generator.The gernerator motor is tuned to run at 1 rpm setting only and that engine is designed to run in a narrow rpm range only.

I have a cracked 77 console laying around.Maybe it can be used as a mold for my friend to do a carbon fiber console with big gulp holder + ligher socket for phone charging.

Free if picked up from my house-not free if I have to pack and ship it.2002 explorer 3.55 open with less than 4 k miles.pm for info

Make sure all of your injectors are flowing correctly.1 lean cylinder will cause problems.If the manifold is warped you could put on the most expensive gaskit in the world and it still wont work.Usually a manifold machining is only $30 to $50.Use new studs on the end of the manifold.

Any engine makes about 20" of vacuem under closing throttle-it doesnt matter what motor made the vacuem.If you increase the bore size of the master cylinder it will take more effort on the pedal.

My computor-Dell desktop running xp service pack 3 with all MS updates,MS security essentials,Kaspersky TDSS killer,Malwarebytes pro .The MS security essentials says its finding that IframeRef malware about once every hour or so.Is there some other software that will kill this stuff or do I have to find files and delete manually?I am not a big time computor geek so looking for files will have to be farmed out.

Rebekah-I would test your oil pressure with a good mechanical gauge before doing anything else to the truck.you can get very good pressure gauges cheap at your local bearing/industrial supply house-you get that plastic air shock line and some fittings and run it in the cab.If the truck has some miles on it I wouldnt run that 5w-30 stuff.I would run at least 10w-30 in the winter and 10w-40 in the summer.Or 15-40 diesel oil like delo or rotella.Usually low oil pressure is the sign of worn rod or main bearings.Do not worry-put better oil in it and run it till it blows.Alot of goverment fleets run delo or rotella in all thier vehicles-they dont want to stock different oil for different apps-this makes for confusion.In a multi-viscosity oil like a 5-30 the base oil is 5w-an additive package is added to it that seems to be a type of plastic resin that changes viscosity with heat.But too much heat-or a wrong application like motorcycle engines-shears up the additive package and you are left with watery 5w nasty stuff.I did this to a motorcycle engine in baja.Diesel engines and motorcycle engines usually use the motor oil to lube gears-either cam drives or transmissions-standard car oil gets the additive package shredded when used in gears.Alot of race engine builders havent gone for synthetic oil yet-they seem to prefer a high quality standard oil like Brad Penn .http://www.penngrade1.com/Default.aspx

if you move the pinion to the rear you will decrease the gear backlash and possably have to re-shim the diff side-to-side.I dont remember factory specs but if you get .010 to.015 backlash on the ring gear wirh a good tooth pattern contact it shouldnt make noise.You really should only need a dial indicator to measure the back lash .

The brake rotor bolts to the back of the front hub.The spacer bolts between the hub and the spacer and should be .8" thick-that is if you are using a 84 300zx rotor.The rotor has nothing to do with the wheels.