randy 77zt

second diff this has happened to in 10 years.the spider gears seem to have a lot of slop where they run against the diff carrier case-the back side of the spider gears seem to be worn or the inside of the diff carrier is worn.this causes alot of clunking noises when you let off of the throttle.the stub axles seem to move around some too.this is on a 87 clsd rear.the previous 3.54 r200 also did this .the ring and pinion backlash is about .012 to .015"-very good for oem parts.heading out to pick&pull today because i found a complete 86 z31 -it is getting the diff ,cv axles,driveshaft removed.have other members here had this problem?

3.54 or 3.7-turbo engines work better with a load to pull against.82-83 na zxt trans had best 5th gear ratio for freeway.i use 1 behind a turbo engine.i like the way the na trans shifts better than a t5.i dont think the turbo t5 trans is that big of a deal.

lets see-it looks like the whole lambo suspension-drivetrain are being xplanted.the lambo rear shocks/springs probably run 2.5" coils springs like race shocks do.if you switch the front struts out to some high quality coil over set up (no problem on this car)you can easily balence the car with the correct spring rates.i see nothing but improvent for this car if enough money and time are spent.

went there for a day a few years back-really liked it.but like most cool places in mexico i would bet its overdeveloped by now.i was on one of those package deals staying in cancun-i thought cancun was overdone-kind of like las vegas on a sandbar.or any other suggestions?supposed to be someplace on the pacific ocean side far south but i dont know the name?any way open for info

i have a 77 with working factory a/c-+ turbo engine.still running r12.but i have made some minor changes.the hot water valve is a hand valve on the cylinder head and i use some of that preformed 90 degree hose to connect directly to the core-its on in the winter and off in the summer.it keeps me from over-pressuring the core at lagunaand insures the hot water is off.i ditched all the maze of factory mounted vacuem valve junk under the glove box.then i ran a relay to run the blower motor directly from the battery-it had a volt drop somewhere.if the little flaps are closing correctly on the side of the box the defroster and a/c will work good-i get 32 degree air.the oem factory stuff is really very high quality-note the use of real copper lines and very little rubber.if you have a bunch of misssing parts it wwould be best to look at some of the companies that make street rod stuff like vintage air.and convert to r134 with a compressor that takes less hp to run

test 3 at 25mph looks like the probe was kicked out of the pipe.but if it works thats all you want.just think what it takes to get a new car map written to pass emissions-but thats what auto builders have engineers for.before ford came out with the gt i looked at a pre-production car getting gas at a station in lake havasu az.an engineer was driving it and it had a lot of computor equipment riding in the passsenger side.it was a shock to me to see the car out on the road .trying to get my ms to run that good has been a problem though.

single & no kids with no bills-i pay

i used to be a ford dealer tech.those are cylinder misfire codes.we used to replace the boots on the coils -if you look sometimes you can see pinholes where there was arcing to ground.or i have seen oil leaking into the spark plug wells and causing a short.i used to use a piece of fuel line to start the plugs-do not touch the plugs.i dont know if you have a mazda or a ford engine-but if you can try to just buy the boots if you can.when we used to tune up the 4.6v8 and 5.4 v8 we installed new boots when we did plugs-this prevented a comeback.basically everything needs to be clean and dry.

i found a video on that website of teacher giving a lecture and getting interrupted by a student's ringing cell phone-he destroys it.

i got a price quote of $1605 for a v44 unit from apex speed technology in los angeles.about 1 more month and the megasquirt will be shelved-i have played with it for 3 years and i have always been chasing problems-now its down to locating an o-scope and looking at wave forms to find stray glitches.anyway there is a minor amount of info on the efi university website.there is also a good video of an old evenrude v6 on u-tube making 450+hp with a vipec v88.anyway its more up to the installer/tuner to get the results.i will admit i suck at using software-so if i can figure it it its got to be very easy.i havent tried the vipec software yet-but most efi builders will have some kind of software to download to check it out

lean it out some.i used to have a smog license in california before moving on to trucks/fleet work(more money).the machines in cali had a manual no test mode -see what the operator can do with his machine.the dyno puts a little more load than if you were normally driving the car on flat ground at 15 and 25 mph.that would be pulling less vacuem on the map sensor.as you lean it out the nox will go up some-but you have alot of room on the nox.i have my innovate wide band running a dash gauge and my ms at the same time-so i can have an idea about what is going on with out a computor.if the engine has good ignition and clean injectors the ms should make it pass smog very easy.if you are running rich you will kill a cat convertor.it should pass with out a cat if its tuned right.in cali they check to make sure all parts are oem-so that kills the ms idea.

grab the blower off of a early 90's ford tbrid sc-after some scrounging at a pick&pull

i dont care what a car looks like -it has to have enough hp to scare me.

even though i dont have a lsx z i like posts like this because i get people asking me questions on other project cars.you can always send them to extrude hone them

the u-joints were sweged into the yokes-there were no grooves for the u-joint c-clips.a drive shaft shop would cut the old yokes off of the tube on a lathe.the weld in new yokes.if you are upgrading to alot more hp you need to get a driveshaft with bigger u-joints.that involves swapping the pinion flange on the diff.i changed a u-joint that snapped at sacramento dragway once for a guy with a l28 turbo that snapped it on the line

car has been in the garage for 3 years while i have been fiddling with engines and changing parts to make it run correctly.after blaming an engine loss on my homemade ignition system(hall effect sensor on the flywheel-81 zxt dizzy) i decided to goto chevy lsx coils.got that working but had 3 injectors inop.but i changed to a new harness between the ecm and the relay board it it seemed to run ok except on boost.so i wired some light bulbs up to the injector curcuits -hung them on the rear view mirror and went for a drive.when thwe car went into its bucking thing i noticed 1 of the lights going in and out.so i decided to open up the ms ecm(was opened up before for the lsx coil driver resistors) and took a good look and the solder joints on the injector driver transistors.found 1 that was never soldered-just stuck into the board and bolted to the case end.funny-i used to daily drive this car 50 miles a day.after the repair-i test drove and the lights stayed on -but now i have to get some tuning done.hopefully i will get some horsepower and not lose my good new stroker motor-l28et with vg30dett pistons and diesel crank.

another member here bought a very cherry 75 or 76 from my neighborhood(central cali) that needed no work for $2000.i saw the picks on the craigs list add but didnt have time to check it out.had it shipped to east coast for $600.car was a very stock complete daily driver.no visable work needed from the picks.i think it was a 76-probably sold because of the hassle of smogging it in cali.most people would be better off spending some money upfront instead of buying something that will sit in the garage not running forever.

i dont know the names but there is a shop or 2 that specializes in wankel engines in socal.they use them in sand rails.when i was in socal last week a mazda pickup complete with the rotory engine pulled up next to me at a light.sounded like it had a radical port job-a very unique idle.

baby wipes?

deer hunting season was over last weekend in central cali.i was forced to hunt by my dad when i was a kid(dont all dads want thier sons to like thier hobbies?) but i dont like the taste of game .so i leave the animals in the forest alone.i dont agree with all the great white hunters with freezers full of game-shoot it and eat it fresh or leave it alone.kind of chickenshit hunting from the road.and shooting in a semi-residential area.

its more a function of finding the correct combo of suspension parts.my car(77 280 with zxt power)has run faster lap times than slower trailered in race cars.but it took 3 years of parts swapping(at 3 or 4 track days a year)to get the car where i like it.car is kind of heavy-2650 lbs.still has working factory a/c.most v8 swaps end up putting more weight on rear wheels.if i swap again it will be to a chevy lsx style motor-probably a 6.0 truck motor.you can get peak hp out of a small engine-but its ft/lbs of torque that make the car easy to drive.

put a straight edge across your manifolds.usually the exhaust has to be milled to be flat again.if the engine was built correctly(all machined surfaces checked flat) the brand of head gaskit shouldnt be a problem.if you try to save money by not having machining done you will kick your self later.

i would like to see a cage design for a z that was built on some kind of computor added design to use the less tubing but installed in the correct position to get the most rigid chassis and be safe in a crash.something that could be lived with on the street.and maybe help save your a$$ against a drunk in an escalade.i have seen cages built that were built more for looks -used extra tubing that wouldnt really work.a unit body car is just a tin can with wheels on it.i parted out a fox body mustang completely once.it only took me and 2 other guys to load the unit body onto a trailer-by hand.a z shell must be only 300-400 lbs.

is trans quiet in 4th gear?4th gear is straight through-1 to 1 ratio.if it gets quiet you have countershaft bearing problems.usually caused by trans fluid low because on speedo drive leak.

time for a complete tear down and rebuild.if you run the trans low on fluid it takes out the countershaft bearings.you can tell by running in 4th noise gets less.or goto pick &pull and take your chances on a used trans.my pick is the 82/83 na trans-but the ratios my not fit your needs