randy 77zt

its in the latest diyefi software download package.would like to watch some waveforms on my car to track down a efi problem.it uses the mic input on your computor.i guess goto radio shack to get the stuff to make test leads?

boost gauge in my clock too-i use my cell phone for a watch-it seems to be very accurate

get the ford book called evtm for your year of engine.this is the ford dealer wiring diagram book and its very easy to follow.i used to work on these as a ford dealer tech.if i were doing this i would weld some brackets to the front frame rails and fab a crossmember just for the engine-maybe some sleeves with urethene bushings where the crossmember attaches to the front frame unibody rails.then cut the old mounts off of nissan x member.in a 240 sx you would probably attach to oem mounting points.time to put the car on stands-hang the motor from the ceiling-put a stand under the trans .then start making patterns.

as long as its not been modified-all equipment is there and working.AND-it passes the sniffer.but make sure the smog test place tests it while the engine is hot-better chance of passing.make sure it is tuned up good and has a clean air filter.sometimes the car runs normal and fails for nox-usually a non functioning egr system

where is it at?there are cars sitting all over around here and everybodies broke.nothing rusts around here but the sun eats all the plastic bits up.pm for cell #

the fuel cell is below the trunk floor and the oem trunk floor is still intact i would guess?those plastic fuel cells arent legal for any sanctioning bodies of racing-they are just cheap replacements for oem gas tank.ther guys that install a real fuel cell-metalcan + rubber bladder-usually cut out the trunk floor and sink them into the trunk.i wouldnt go through the effort to mount that thing myself.

some of the east coast guys would probably rather fix that car than some of the major rusty foorpan jobs they do.i used to buy wrecks from copart back in the 80's.they started out as an auction for insurence companies to unload thier wrecked cars.but if somebody needs a specific motor/donor car they will pay more for it than cleatus-the-wrecker will.so the internet helps them find homes for their cars.only do business with the real thing.

i just converted my l28et to lsx coils.i used moby's ls1 sticky for instructions on firing the coils.i run the a,b,c leds in a fake kind of waste spark mode. each led fires 2 coils.works good

how safe are my wheels?lets see-i bought them from pick &pull and beed blasted them and painted the centers black.then mounted kumho v700s and use them for track days.my thinking is that i will destroy an expensive wheel-i wont cry over pick&pull parts.about the young stud with the gtr-if you can afford an 80k car you can afford a beater to leave out in front of the gf's house.maybe he had some of his buddies do it so he could get the insurence money for some pimp daddy wheels.the first gtr with 24"s

it probably doesnt sound like a it has a dead cylinder-like a suby at idle.

if you swap parts around you should use a degree wheel and piston stop to find true tdc.the old nissan dampeners can spin a bit.or the pointer might not match your dampener.then check your timing with a good timing light-does it match what your ecm is telling your computor?

todays slacker=tommorrows manual laborer-just ask me.20+ years of being a mechanic.but that 2 year degree i got in electronics helps alot

i have ran 82/83 zxt ecm on 81zxt no problem.the cas on 81 is a vr sensor-but there are 2 sensors in it.one checks for 3 teeth(the wide teeth 120 degrees apart) and the other reads the 90 teeth.are the injectors firing?i used a megasquirt to fire a stock 81 zxt coil/ignitor for a long time.that yellow/white wire fires the transistor on the coil.you could check the output of the cas with a dvom that reads low voltage ac.check at the front connector then recheck at the ecm plug on the correct pins.

i have a few ecm's and a 81 harness laying around.it seemed to me after running it its better to start with all new connectors and build a new harness to go with my aftermarkit efi system.so i removed all old nissan stuff.

the crank pulley/balencer was off of a 82/83 turbo engine.81 turbo had a 90 tooth wheelwith a vr sensor-actually 2 sensors in 1.and yes you could machine teeth into the wheel.see 1 of my posts about 4 pages back in this forum.i cut 60 teeth (every 2nd and 3rd) out of a 81zxt balencer and mounted a cherry gear tooth sensor on a tab i welded on the a/c ideler pulley bracket.i took out 1 tooth at tdc.there is an excel file somewhere on ms website on how to enter the info for the # of teeth you have.i used the 3 leds to fire chevy lsx coils in a waste spark set up.i always try to use the minimum amount of parts to get the job done.i dont remember if the 82/83 pulley with the disc had the disc bolted to a non-rubberized part of the pulley-you wouldnt want it to slip.the 81 disc is and has a locator pin.there are many ways to get a ms system to work.even though i used to be a ford dealer tech i didnt want the extra outside edis module of the edis ign system and the extra wiring.

i was out of work a couple of years ago and ended up working in iraq as a contractor .i worked as a mechanic on military vehicles.i worked at ford dealers for years.after iraq the i got a job for a company as a factory service tech for street sweepers.unless you want to compete with illegal aliens forget about the auto repair business.since my job involves government it is slowing down-they arent buying new equipment.i might be headed back to the sandbox again.but i will probably never work on cars again-there isnt any money in it.fleet work on trucks and construction equipment pays much better.

81zxt is a crank fire setup-you have to swap all the 81zxt stuff-including the afm and run the zxt ignition.the 81zxt has a 90 tooth wheel-the ecm needs to see the correct rpm signal to operate.the 77 efi system wont supply enough fuel for a turbo.i had mine running on 81zxt efi for years before switching to megasquirt.i just got tired of chasing problems with 25+ year old parts.

i got a check for a boat i had for sale fed-exed to me .i just figured i would deposit it and tell the check writer he paid 10k more for the boat.as expected the check was no good.and my bank charged me $5 for the bounce fee.

my innovate runs the lm1 gauge and ms both at same time.the gauge is velcroed between the speedo and tach.it helps catch the spots on the af map that i need to recheck.

i used the relay board for protection from myself-it has fuses for the circuits that could possably short out.i mounted the ms and relay board on the bulkhead behind the seats-easy access and well protected

until 3 years ago i used to work as a ford dealer tech.these engines were used in last model t bird and lincoln ls.never really had any problems with the engine itself.they sounded good wound up.there were enough lincoln ls made that the motors should be around in the wrecking yards.if you get a ford version and want to use the ford efi system get the factory ford book called evtm-for the car the motor came from.it is the wire diagram book -and very easy to follow.the auto trans behind these engines seemed to have alot of close ratios-and kept the engine in a narrow rpm band.i kind of liked crusing the tbird with the top down.but top up it was claustrophobic.

is that fuel pressure recommended for that carb?check the float level-i have had it off on new carbs out of the box.is the cam timing correct if you changed the cam?is the timing pointer correct or did you change something from the motor.carb will probably have to be rejetted -try to find a wide band 02 set up for tuning.

i was there 2 weeks last summer.very clean town.very expensive for food.the weather this time of year is perfect.i am getting ready to go home after 2 weeks in nyc.problem is my company doesnt send me out for sight seeing.been working 12 hour days plus last saturday.i was amazed that bank pay good interest on saving deposits there.

there is a strainer in the tank.you can check this buy connectin a piece of fuel line to the pump and dropping it in a gallon can of gas.run fuel pressure test again-if it stays at spec you need to work on the gas tank.you can have it boiled out and coated inside.basically your fuel pump might be pulling vacuem on the supply side

more camshaft,premium pump gas,being able to have the vacuem advance retard timing,run a 160 thermostat.alot of modern cars are running 10/1 compression.a good high compression engine has better throttle response.back when my car had the old l28 original engine i put in new injectors,new injector connectors,and built a custom distributor from 2 dizzys.the plug on the vacuem can has an adjustment under it.the is a plastic piece under the base plate that is usually broken the the centrifical advance is usually inop.any way after some fine tuning the old l28 was a very surprising engine.if i didnt have all the turbo stuff around i wouldnt mind having a nicely built n/a motor with aftermarkit efi.