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And if you worked/hung out at car shows, auto shops and junkyards there you most likely are smarter. What do you have to add to the thread smart guy..... crickets chirping in background. What people on this site, especially those who are new to Z cars, fail to realize is the these engines were the small block chevy of japan to use a crude analogy. There is very little that hasn't been done too or with L series engines in Japan or other parts of the world. It truly is sloth, language or some other impediment that keeps people from realizing this.

Price is function of what is inside and who puts it together. I am not aware of any increased maintenance cost of a stroker over a regular L-series. Why do you think the maintenance would be more? If you are worried about carbs just sell them and switch to EFI. Now if you want to abuse it, go buy two regular L-28s and mildly build them, then swap long blocks when one blows up. Repeat as required.

Yes, do a quick continuity check between the B/W wire on the connecter and the appropriate pin on the EFI relay and you will be good to go. I used the lead that feeds the condenser at the distributor as the ignition hook-up. Simplified my installation some as there was already an ignition wire that fed the old coil near by. Saved running extra wire. My reading of some threads here deemed the condenser a non-critical part.

If you bought the Powerforce damper from MSA. As stated on their website; Model Restrictions: For L-Series engines only. Not for use with smog pumps, power steering, or air conditioning. Doesn't look like a pulley will fit for your AC

I have a stock 1983 L28ET swapped into a 77. My issue is that my timing shifts from 20 BTDC to around 30 BTDC, after about 30 seconds. It is not mechanical, because I can shut off the engine wait a few minutes and when I start it back up timing is at 20 BTDC. I have checked AFM, TPS and CHTS per the 83 FMS. I think this points to an ECU problem, because the TPS is supposed to lock the timing at 20 BTDC at idle. Am I missing something basic or is the next step to swap the ECU. I hate to just swap parts, but I am out of things to troubleshoot. Has any one seen timing shifts at idle before?

Is there anything on the front of the cam under the timing gear? I have seen some aftermarket cams stamped there.

You are more than one tooth off. Try again, then install distibutor and look where the rotor lines up with number one plug. Welcome to hunt and stab, took me a couple tries.

Read up on how cylinder heads are designed. Keep in mind these heads are pre computer design era, so flow paths will be simple based on manufacting and the casting process. Understanding that and the photos on this sight in the cooling thread and cylinder head porting threads will allow you to make educated guesses at what's inside. Or cut one open.

My various projects have taken years and some are still not done. Make a list for sure. When you have time pick one or two items that you know you can complete. Then keep updating the list, but always look at what you crossed off. I swear one month the only thing I accomplished was putting the radiator hoses on and filling it up with coolant, but I always got to look at the line through that one task. Mountains are moved one shovel full at a time. You just get to pick the size of the shovel.

Tape some 1-2 inch pieces of yarn to the back window in rows equally spaces. Stick a go-pro camera in the back and video the air flow over the hatch. Will give you a much better image of what is going on. Yell out your speed so you get it on the video. Bet what you will find is a large area of reverse flow starting about halfway down the glass where it runs out of energy. VG's energize the flow so in less then technical terms, the energized flow will push father down the glass. Reverse flow means more drag and other bad things. Main issue is any surface ahead of were you are interested will take energy out of the flow. Your deflectors would need to stick out into the free air, about 2 inches away from the body.

To be BAR legal you will need the VCM, EGR and evap system functional. Turbo evap cans can get pricey, if you can find them at all. Also need the turbo down pipe and cat. You should be able to keep your current exhaust after that.

Crower will also cut you one. They asked for a stock L28 crank to use as a pattern, but will do it without one as well. Looking in the 3-4k range.

Use the z31 plug. You can get them new.

Contact BHJ, they will answer all you questions. They also have explanations on their web site. Mine is of exceptional build quality. Just as a note the Rebello damper will rust, so take steps to keep it clean if that kind of thing bothers you.

My Skyline (1976) has that sensor, but it's JDM. The only thing it does on my car is turn a light off on the dash when the cat is at temperature. Leaving it unplugged, the light just stays on till the bulb burns out. Do you have a light in the dash for cat temperature?

I sold mine for scrap. $300 seems to be market value for l28 running. Haven't been able to give my extra transmissions away.

82 Turbo? You didn't specify. There are two optical sensors. cgsheen has a good write up posted on here with the wiring. I don't have the link handy. Google search on turbo distributor wiring to pull up what you seek.

Assuming you have access to the parts, I assume it would cost the same. If you need to buy the additional parts, that will be additional cost. Make sure you have the cam sized to the new displacement and head flow.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM9798460813P?ci_src=184425893&ci_sku=SPM9798460813&sid=IDx20130125xMPHOMx012 They are around. For $40, you can get on that measres .01 to 500 grams at .01 accuracy.

So what is the point of your post? Have you built any L-series engine or are you parroting the internets? Bore it out? Start with the L28 block. Custom pistons? Put them in the L28 block. High strength rod? Factory rods are all the strength you need. Gnarly cam? Which head? Like the N42 or P90 (L28 heads). 10K redline? L28 can do that. Great throttle response and high end power? Built L28 will give you that. Cool factor? Got me there, really cool to spend a lot of time and money on less power. Current F1 engines have mandated durability rules of multiple races. It was to drive down cost. When was the last time a F1 car blew a motor? The correct turbo set up will give you more power period, otherwise it is not the correct turbo for the engine. Comparing turbo'd stokers and non-strokers is apples and oranges. Given max built engines, properly done, I will take more displacement. If you have to play within class rules, now you get trickly with rod lengths, bores, strokes.....ect. Only reason to destroke an L28 is to play in class rules like the Bob Sharp 2.5L engines.

Sure, in an acedemic world with all things equal, I'll agree that a better stroke bore ratio might be of some benefit. But that said, given head work engine management and ignition it would still be better to have more displacement. If you want to do something different, do it. Just don't claim some performance gain on some acedemic point without an apples to apples comparison.

Only reason to destroke is class rules. Shorter stroke alone will not increase RPM potential over a stock stroke or stoker engine that is properly built.

Yes, confusing. Try to use numbers for the components and then a table with the picture and the number. Simplify the lines by using a different style of line for the rubber and braided lines. Also use a different style of line to point to a part. Colors are confusing if you are color blind.

$250 sound about right for remanufacture. Some time you can get a deal on a used one, but if you want the certainity of remanufacture, you are going to spend some dollars.

The last one I bought was around $100 used. I had a very hard time finding one. Alternate is to use two individual relays with a diode as shown in the FSM schematic.