Mike kZ

Man I was just about to post about my '72 Duster with a 440. But I had the original exhaust manifolds on there. So you had to put your arm in from the front of the engine to reach the back plugs. The manifolds were log type and were 1/2" from the fender wells

That's the only way that they can feel what a real rear wheel drive car can do!

2400 - 2600 isn't bad. I have 3.73 gears with a T56 6 speed and at 75mph my rpm is 1767. I'm getting around 21, 22 mpg with a EFI327.Passing at that rpm in 6th can be done, but you can't put your foot into it, or it will bog.

Very Nice!

Check this out! You could bore and stroke it to 5.0 liters! http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofjet.htm

I'd like to see that thing turn on a normal street!

Don't forget that Canadian money is a little more than half of American money.

ROFLOL! That was great! I was laughing my ass off through the whole thing!

Is that you Jason? Some people have too much time on their hands.

I used the T5 slave on my T56, because of the bleed screw. Both slaves have the same volume, and the T5 is just easier to bleed.

Do you guys enjoy your fingers, hands, arms? Carefull one day you may be missing something!

Are you planning on using a harness? If so you need a bar between the main hoop to attach your harness.

I wish I had that much free time!!

Man! that sure looks real! How did they position the body to correspond to each action? It even looks like the taxis windshield is flaking off from shattering!

Let us know if you can get it to work

I tapped the T56 slave and just used teflon tape and screwed it in. So far I have 500 mile on the setup with no leaks!

The Datsun guage still won't work. That LED is just to show low fuel, below empty. It does not make the guage work.

Someone did this on photoshop. I think it looks cool! sorry pic didn't work. Go to my second site below, then "photo page" and scroll down to a white chopped Z

That's exactly what I did! But I used a Spintech muffler 3X9X14 dual 2 1/2 in and out. The muffler sits just in front of my diff. I also used a cross over befor it, and exhaust tips that have glass in them to help quit things down. It sounds great!

I moved the stock tank to the center, made new straps to hold it, added a sump for my fuel injection, and are using the stock filler location. To extend the filler to the tank, I used a 90 degree exhaust elbow and a short piece of 2 1/4" gas hose to connect to the tank. I also welded all but one vent holes, and eliminated the expansion tank in the car. The one vent hole has a gas hose from it to the side of the filler neck where the expansion tank attached. I then drilled two small holes in the gas cap. Everthing works very well!

I'm glad you came to your senses Mike! , and kept Chris's car. That shell is too nice to get rid of! I thought you traded the white car to Les for labour? Anyhow keep the spirit up, you'll make it through. Good luck on all the projects!

A good chrome place will strip off the chrome first. If there is pitting in the metal (like pot metal), they will dip it into multiple copper baths untill the pits are gone. Then they polish the copper, then dip it into chrome, and it's better than new. This is called "show chrome" and it's not cheap!

I think mine disengages between 1/2 and 3/4 down.

I would use an etching primer for now, untill you finish welding, that way all you have to do is touch up with primer when you make a new weld. Then spray on the bedliner.

Same bolt pattern up 'till '81