SleeperZ

They shouldn't be tight enough to require an impact to remove. They only have a 10mm socket head, torqued to 60 or 70 ft-lbs... I've removed them with a 3/8" socket wrench.

Basically you need an aftermarket EFI computer that supports coil packs (ie: a separate ignition signal per cylinder or cylinder pair). For an inline 6, the most common setup is a triple coil pack, where two cylinders fire at once, one on the power stroke, the other on the exhaust (wasted spark).

I got mine from top end performance - the only one I know of that will brace to the firewall, unless you weld up your own. Don't know if it will work with a V8, but it fits across the L28 perfectly. http://www.racetep.com/z510card.html

No clue what that is - it certainly won't bolt to an L series...

This is a current topic in this forum: driveshaft loop discussion The placement requirement is at least within 6" of the front universal joint.

Wow! That thing is insane - that kind of torque on such a short wheel base...better be putting some long wheelie bars on it.

I don't think DUAL 2-1/2" will be a restriction But I don't know about noise - 97 dB is very loud, and turbos really take the edge off the noise, so you might be ok. Maybe just have a contingency plan to install mufflers...

Well, talk about contradictory and vague....but it sounds like the main culprit to dangerous rear ends is the early Vette. IMHO, and because I'm optimistic, I think the rear strut can be called an "upper control arm"

Not sure what you are saying is accurate. Less duration presents more restriction to the exhaust. If you restrict the exhaust less, you have more energy to feed the turbo. Obviously there is a limit though, you don't want to open the exhaust before you have finished pushing down the piston

That is virtually the same cam I ran, and will run again when I get my head swapped back on again. The specs on mine are 280/270 duration, lift of .460/.460 with a lobe separation of 114. There is an almost imperceptible lope with mine, I suspect you will have a bit more with less lobe separation. At .050" lift, my cam has -7 degrees of overlap (doesn't overlap very much). I love the way it pulls, doesn't seem to lack much on the low end compared to stock, but at 3500+ rpm it pulls to 6500 like a train. My fuel cut hits there, but it would keep pulling if it could -- very unlike the stock cam that noticeably runs out of steam by 6000 rpm. I can't tell you how it runs with lots of boost - the most I ran with it was 9psi (before I put on the IC). As soon as I get my ECU mods in place and tuned, I will put on the P90 with the turbo cam again and compare (I've run with a stock motor all last year).

What sort of fittings are you thinking of using? Copper solders well, and should be durable, but most fittings are brass, and would be tricky to solder. There is a VERY cheap option out there (besides just using the stock rail -- you can easily flow fuel for 300+ hp with it), and that is using the aluminum extrusion at $12/ft ($24), and tapping it for 5/16" brass barbs. Use 1/8" NPT for the injectors, 3/8" NPT for the ends, and mount the regulator on the right fenderwell by the return. My rail, built like that, cost less than $50, including taps.

Moby, come up to Bandimere when you get it running. There are several cool Zs that will be running there this season (including mine of course). or Second Creek with the Z club, if that's more your style.

I'm not sure I know what's wrong, but it sounds like you have the right parts. All the halfshafts I've seen for 280Zs with R200s seem to be the same length. The R200 flange will pop out - it is retained by an internal clip. Those flanges are side specific, but I don't think they can be installed wrong and appear to work. HTH

Dylan! I love his old stuff. Check out "All along the watchtower" and "Hurricane" for a start. I'd have to rummage through my vinyl for more because there's lots of good stuff out there.

So if Saddam is such a threat, why has the US been unable to convince the international community, or any of Iraq's neighbors of that? Maybe it's Bush's shortcomings as a statesman, but it still seems strange to me. I think terrorism will rise, not fall, as a result of this action. Just MO.

S30Z Bushido - that looks very nice. I want to do the same with my '78, only bumperless.

Just wanted to add one more thing. I thought the drag radials I ran on the street really sucked for cornering - they didn't break loose, but the sidewalls were so flexible, the whole back end felt very unstable. I can't imagine what running a bias ply tire back there would be like. I'm not sure the M/T DOT street tires would be an improvement over the drag radials on the street...

What kind of a tire do you want to run? M/T makes only drag slicks don't they? I've got a set of 22x8 mounted on 15x6 factory turbo wheels. I'd never run them on the street though. For that I ran a set of 215/60/14 BFG drag radials - they grip the street better than just about anything without a burn-out.

Go ahead, you can do it with a ZX engine (8.3:1), but with a factory turbo motor that is more durable available, most people go with that.

I hope I don't sound too doubtful, but the Z31 ECU doesn't sense boost, so how can you say you changed the "deg per boost"? What is that? IMHO, the only way you will get more power at a lower boost level is to upgrade the turbo or intercooler, or port the head and use a hotter cam, increasing flow and/or redline. The ECU should not be adjustable that way. If what you are saying is true, then you may have leaned out the fuel to a dangerous level, or increased the ignition timing to a (again) dangerous level. From what I've heard, the JWT stuff is tuned pretty well, and it would be hard to improve it.

Yes, it can be and is done. You must beware of hooking up the MAF connector backwards! The keying is defeated, and the ECU will go south on you if you connect it backwards. Also, it's NOT the same as a JWT without bigger injectors. The JWT has code inside modified to operate bigger injectors, as well as rev limits and ignition curves modified for more power. Don't fool yourself - it is a stock ECU, and it will work just like one - I know, I run one.

Not in quite yet, but I trimmed the ends and found a good spot to bolt in, about 5" back from the front U-joint. It looks like it may interfere with the exhaust I'm installing "while I'm at it", so we'll see what gives.

To add to what Tim said... The IC built after the throttle body should have a substantial cross-sectional area to flow the intake through - you need to reduce the velocity of the air so it can give up more of it's heat and not increase the resistance to flow - basic intercooler design. This aspect is well described in "Maximum Boost". But also I think you would not want to reduce the volume of your plenum by filling it up with fins - this could affect the breathing from what I hear - the plenum volume needs to be larger than your displacement by 50% or so. It sounds like a tricky thing to implement and have work well. The weblink shows a very large intercooler atop the V8 intake - if you could combine two L28 intakes, one on top of the other, one of them an intercooler, the other a normal plenum, you might get some interesting results.