510six

The E85 legislation that SEMA is working on pertains to pre 75 vechicles.As E85 burns much cleaner than gasoline, they are trying to get a loophole passed that would make a pre 75 vechicles modified to run exclusivley E85 smog excempt like a pre 1964 vechicles.I found this information out from a friend who is a State of California Smog Ref and another who is a a lobbyist in Sacramento.

The broken jaw ordeal is loads of laughs.I would look at getting a new Harmonic Balancer as having a bad one could cause harmonics that could cause your flywheel bolts to back out.

What I was trying to say was that there is already "SOME" CVC pertaining to the use of ethanol and that SEMA is working towards making all pre 1975 cars runnings E85 like those that are pre 64.E85 may be avalable in your area of California, but not until the end of this year in mine.And a diesel swap in a pre 75 does make the car smog excempt.

I made over 500rwh with a N42 block with a small T4 turbo and a large shot of N20.The N42 block will work fine and the N42 head works well when ported.The cam you run would depend on what kind of induction ,EFI? Tripples?SU`s?.I ran mid 12`s on a 3 liter with a 120hp shot of N20 with a N33 head and an all JY parts bottom end.The cam I used was a WEB 490/290 and it sounded great when the car was on the bottle.I used an MSD Digital 6 and went though 3 of them during the time I was running a distibutor. http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=5&prt=130&action=partSpec&partNumber=6000-6466 I have a couple of friends using the Crane Ignitions with good results.

Try this soite for info on LD28`S http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/

There is a loophole in the California smog regulations that allows for diesel swaps in pre-75 cars.When E85 is in CA I am converting. Air Quality Standards: Light and Medium-Duty Vehicles 28113. (a) Every light-duty and medium-duty motor vehicle operated for compensation to transport persons in an air quality management district or air pollution control district, which does not meet all applicable state ambient air quality standards, shall be a low-emission vehicle, as defined by regulation of the State Air Resources Board. If the vehicle is capable of operating on more than one fuel, it shall be operated within any nonattainment area to the maximum extent practicable either on the designated clean fuel on which the low-emission vehicle was certified or on any other fuel designated by the State Air Resources Board as a substitute fuel for the designated clean fuel. Any air quality management district or air pollution control district may adopt regulations for the enforcement of this section which are consistent with regulations of the State Air Resources Board. ( As used in this section, "motor vehicle operated for compensation to transport persons" includes a taxi cab, bus, airport shuttle vehicle, transit authority or transit district vehicle, or a vehicle owned by a private entity providing transit service under contract with a transit district or transportation authority. © As used in this section, "light-duty" has the same meaning as defined in Section 39035 of the Health and Safety Code. (d) As used in this section, "medium-duty" has the same meaning as defined in Section 39037.5 of the Health and Safety Code. (e) This section applies to all new light-duty motor vehicles purchased on or after January 1, 1997, and to all new medium-duty vehicles purchased on or after January 1, 1998. Added Ch. 496, Stats. 1991. Effective January 1, 1992. I obtained this information from the California DMV website: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Does my vehicle qualify for a smog exemption? Smog inspections are required unless your vehicle is: Hybrid 1975 year model or older Diesel powered Electric Natural gas powered and has a Gross Vehicle Weight rating of 14,001 lbs. or more. Motorcycle Trailer

I have AEM EMS in y car and after some initial problems sorting it out it`s been great.

I am about at the point of buying a LD28 and put a 280zxt manifold on it with a small T3 and driving to the Ref and getting an exception for having a Diesel engine in a pre 75 car.

If your z jumped time it`s probably because the timing chain tensioner either got some trash in it or just failed.I would replace the timing chain, the guides and the tensioner.On an L series engine when both of the rear cam lobes are touching the rockers and depressing the valves just a little and both of the front cam lobes are exactly opposite of the rear cylinder then your very close to TDC.And your top sprocket can be installed.I hate to tell you this but you are going to have to remove your front timing cover to replace the timing chain and the guides.Something has to keep the cam chain tensioner from poping out when installed,in the case where the timing cover is off it`s easy.Just use a piece of thick wire (coathanger) and bend it in a "C" shape so that it retains the tensioner when the top sprocket is being installed.Then remove it afterwards. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/rebuild.html http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107157&highlight=motor+timing+chain BTW the search function on this site works really well.

Flowmaster 40 series....just to quite things down after the turbo.But, it sounds OK

Your tranny is terminal anyways, but I have driven Nissan trannys numerous miles before they totally seized up.

Tony is that high temp paint or some sort of ceramic coating on the exhaust manifold?

I would check on a Rotary engine forum.I seem to recall a peripheral intake port rotary owner talking about getting the side port intake welded up before going to a peripheral intake.Like I said check on a Rotary engine Forum.

I didn`t have a problem breaking the diff itself, what I had a problem with was snapping stub axels in half( the bolt in type).I hear the soild CV joint type hold up much better.Thats what the 510 crowd says about the R180.I ended up going to a R200 with a NISMO LSD and never looked back.

I always used a linelock to heat up my tires.Way to much heat buildup in the diff otherwise.

This is with my old setup, small turbo large shot of N20 right off the linewith a manual tranny.If anything was going to shockload a diff that would be it. A NISMO LSD was used in the R200 with 3.70 gears.

I have a NISMO LSD (Power Brute) and after over 200 hard drag launches on slicks with over 500rwh,no problems to date.

The problem is that at above 300fpt with a 280zx 5 speed tranny the reliabilty level goes way down.But, you can give it a shot .At worst you will just break a transmission, or more likely break a U joint in the driveline.On slicks,you have to consider the weak points in a driveline.

What are you going to use to track the engines A/F ratio?You might find the limits of your clutch and tranny spraying on a turbo motor esp. on slicks.I made 260rwh and 280fpt on a all junkyard parts 3 liter and ran mid 12`s.With a small T4/T4 turbo (12psi boost) and a 60rwh shot the car ran 12 flat.Spraying on a turbo car is kinda like 2 + 2 = 5,it`s impressive.

I bought a dirt cheap HKS BOV knockoff on Ebay just for the flanges as I needed the steel one and a friend needed the aluminum.Plus the O rings and clips were just an added bonus.The 50 I paid for the Ebay unit was less than the 30 and 40 that HKS wanted for the flanges.

LOL, you don`t say.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-1600_W0QQitemZ200070124974QQihZ010QQcategoryZ102220QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://datnet.org/v4/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9663 This thing would be a killer sleeper with a shot of methanol instead of the FMIC.

I just put mine in the spot where the cold start injector was.

I am guessing a bit over the posted speed limit .

It was done using a hand held camera. A daatalog from the AEM EMS at 7.5 psi of boost 3rd gear.