Cruez

Yeah, I saw that last week... that thing ended up being a rust bucket..

My only question..... why a Focus ??

Sad that projects come to an end sometime... Good luck in the sale.

Sounds good. I would probably be in on this. Alot simpler than doing the strut reconstruction. What would the cons be as opposed to the struct sectioning??

No, not doubting... actually I don't know why I worded it that way If you can dig it out that would be great... I'm not sure that it makes that big of a difference, but the Haltech setup states to find TDC before allowing the computer to take over the ignition timing.

Here is the set I put on a few weeks ago, finally got the relays and wiring completed with the Maxi Fuse... Sure as hell beats the yellow looking stockers that used to be on it. They have a nice beam cutoff also... I haven't mounted the Hella fogs yet though.. I should actually be able to see in the rain again

That rear tire is HUGE !!! LOL... looks like a bicycle tire on there with the flares

That will get you close... there is going to be some "dwell time" where its not moving for a few degrees. You can't always go by what the marks on from that degree plate, although it should be close. One way I found to get true TDC is to weld a rod on the end of a spark plug, put it in the cylinder. Do this on the compression stroke.... Turn the crank by hand clockwise until it just touches the end of the rod. Mark that position. Turn the crack again (by hand) in a clockwise direction until it stops again. Mark that position and divide the difference by 1/2. That would be true TDC.

1 comment.... change from WD-40 to PBblaster. It works much better, no joke.

Hey, that's corporate america for ya....

That sucks... but I ended up spending $170 of the money I had put away for it on my dog yesterday... someone hit her with a car.

Look at this car... (the one in the first part of the show) Very similar lines to another car I know.. and an LS engine to boot. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3198662249757043000&q=Top+Gear

Interesting... I am going to need a new M/C soon. My 4 pot calipers are in the mail. I'll keep an eye on this and see your outcome. I wonder how much difference the bolt up to the booster is going to be?

If that crack near the hatch window is up on top of the roof, that is a seam that is on all of them. I think they are leaded. I have seen quite a few with that 2 inch or so crack on both sides.

I just sold an electric converter... DOH!

They seem to have hydraulic, pneumatic and electomagnetic systems.. From the show I watched it said it did weigh less than a conventional setup. Under 3000 lbs, there is no need for a booster. http://www.newtech-ibs.com/html_franc/frames/det_frein_eng.html

From what I have read about that particular model, they are very few of those around. For that price I think I would buy it.

http://www.newtechbrake.com/ New page they have... and supposedly they weight 5-15 lbs less than a typical setup. I was watching a show that showed the makings of the brake system... they were testing it on a Porshe race car.

I'd love to have that car.... Very nice.

I thought that was yours.... unfortunately.... too much to ship... Wish it was local ..

Thats one heluva grocery getter.

489 .... sweet

BINGO ! I also had to send some pics in... on Monday or Tuesday... Got them yesterday though..!!! I started putting them together tonight and polishing up the lenses,..... Couple problems I found. 1st, each face should have its own wire. I ended up cutting the speedometer from the tachometer face because I wanted the wiring completely in the original gauge, not on the outside. They are spliced together in the connector.. 2nd... and more important, I need to call them back on this one. The voltmeter does not have the cutout for the red charge light and the "CHG" text is not there. However, they do look good.. here is a preview. (still need to spray the needles)