Mayolives

If you are at TDC, the pointer should be on zero.

Amboy Dukes: Journey to the Centre of the Mind.............Truly one of my favorite classic tunes. Yea, I'm old. Rock on!

With the engine at TDC, the first two cam lobes should be pointed like this.

Yes.

Mark, Although I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet, I've been told that both front Koni 8611 dampers can be adjusted in about half an hour. Knowing how Murphy's law normally applies when I need to get things done at the track, that easy to do, remove and replace a couple of bolts, could turn into a not so easy to do, pain in the a## deal. I like your idea and plan on stealing it! Thanks again.

After several seasons of chasing summer overheating problems on my track car, I removed my front mounted Setrab oil cooler and replaced it with a C&R oil to water heat exchanger. I mounted the new piece on the right side of the engine below the spark plugs for ease of plumbing and it has helped to lower the coolant temperatures considerably and the oil temperature has stayed about the same. By removing the oil cooler, that had been mounted between the intercooler and the radiator, the incoming air has one less thing to pass through, and subsequently now keeps things a bit cooler.

QUOTE: None of that applies to anyone here on this message board because our ham fisted driving masks the lap time difference. Johnc is correct again. Few of us will ever experience the true potential of what our cars are capable of doing on the track. My "ham fisted" driving is always in the way

Coolant leaks, especially external ones, are easy to find with a little patience and a pressure tester. Don't over do the pressure when you pump it up. Ten pounds should do the trick. If it's internal, you will need to dig a little deeper and ask better, and more specific questions.

Hopefully, I have discovered the cause of the chattering and hoping issues I have been experiencing. One of the rear 8610 dampers (RR) was bad and not functioning on the compression side. Also, I have installed Koni 8611 dampers that will allow me to adjust both rebound and compression. Thank you JohnC, at Beta Motorsports, for the fast service and installation advice. I'll be able to test the new setup, that includes lowering the rear spring from 350 lbs to 325 lbs, next Monday during the Asphalt Ventures track day at VIR. Yahoo. Alan, Thanks for the pictures. Now I remember seeing your setup and braces, but it was years ago and at that time I probably didn't know what I was looking at.

It would appear that you have found a good deal. I'm not sure what your plans are for the car, but IMHO, chase to body problems first. The rest will be easier.

I haven't used the A6 Hoosier but have used R6 (275-16)and Kumho V710 (265-16), both purchased new and for road course use. As stated above, the A6 have the reputation of not lasting through many heat cycles and are normally used for autocross applications. I get about the same lap times with either tire when new. After a few heat cycles, the Hoosiers may still look good but are really slick and lap times go up. The Kumho V710, on my car, will last longer, stay softer and faster, through more heat cycles that the Hoosier tire.

jnddragracing...........QUOTE:Max Torque: 605.20 Rear Wheel Man..........I would kill for that kind of torque in a road race z car. I could even keep up with the real fast guys like JT1, Mark and TitaniumZ. te he he

The FSM has an excellent step by step guide for the job. Read it a few times and "puppy" along with it. You can't go wrong. There are a few hidden bolts here and there but the manual points them out. Pay particular attention to correctly dealing with the timing chain and how to hold it in place or you will create a few more hours of additional work when you reassemble the engine. Buy your parts from Nissan and don't cheep out on a little better prices from the auto parts store. I would suggest having the head checked out at a good machine shop when you remove it. Take your time and ask intelligent questions if you get stuck. It aint no biggie.

Quote: I run some additional tubes with rod ends from the frame rail down close to where the back of the control arm bolts to the plates coming down from the top. They come in at about a 45 degree angle when looking in from the rear. I did this to more firmly lock the whole assembly in place side to side. Alan, Do you have any pictures of the support tubes you added? I don't remember seeing them before. QUOTE: How long have you been running the new halfshaft with the 930 P car cv's? Did this start after the new halfshafts? Mark, The shafts have been in there for a while. I converted to the 930 "P" car ends so that I could easily find parts when needed. The Nissan turbo four bolt ends are becoming scarce. The hopping deal started before I changed to the new setup.

Alan, I normally run a bar but removed it at CMP when working to find the cause of this problem. It didn't help the chattering but I sure new that it was missing. I plan to put the bar back on the car.

Alan, It does it's thing in both directions. As to inside wheel more than the outside, I' m not that good to be able to interpolate the info. My guess would be both wheels about the same.

Alan, The shocks are at Koni but I havent got the results. It hops mid corner and on exit when adding power. It bounces and chatters before the curbs are hit. JT has experienced it from within. No one has commedted on a view from outside the car.

I'm using STP 4-Cylinder Oil Treatment. It has a high zddp content and doesn't cost a fortune. I'm not suggesting that it works better than the Comp. Cams product. I suspect their product is well tested and top notch.

Alan, Other than John's "oh ♥♥♥♥" screams coming from the passenger seat, there are no sounds associated with the hopping deal. The outer P car 930 cv shaft ends were touching the frame on compression and after hitting a curb, especially if I had the left set occupied, so I raised the rear end about 3/4". The chattering deal does seam to be more pronounced with extra weight in the other seat, but not much. The Koni tech guy suggested too low tire pressures could be causing it to hop. I normally run my 275-16 Hoosiers at 27/28 lbs cold, and even a bit lower during very hot summer runs. 265-16 710 Kumhos are my favorite and seam to respond better at even lower temperatures.

Hot pepper jelly can be made with most any jelly recipe using peppers to replace the fruit. My latest batch was made with a combination of small Thai peppers, cayenne peppers and the large cow horn peppers. I normally add some red or green food coloring for looks. Cream cheese and crackers with a dollop is this stuff is really fine. Is this Hybrid Z. org? What have we become? Is there a gear head recipe section in the making?

I have received some good information from those who have responded to this thread and from others whom I have contacted. Koni technical gurus have informed me that the 8610 dampers are only adjustable for rebound. Now I have a number of items to physically check on the car but I suspect the Koni dampers are not the culprit that is causing my problem. They all appear to be in good working condition but I have shipped them to Koni to be dynoed. My search is now centered on the suspension components and where they are mounted, the ends of the axles where the go into the differential to see if they may be moving in and out as John C mentioned, binding issues, weather or not the parts are bottoming out, rear toe alignment and lastly, checking the Quaife to see if there could be issues causing it to load and unload improperly. The search is on and I'll share my results as they present themselves.

Most better race car drivers are adept at left foot braking techniques. The benefits are many. However, there are some top notch professional drivers, Mark Martin comes to mind, that reportedly don't left foot brake. Most of us were taught to use the right foot from day one, and getting the other one trained takes a lot of practice.