heavy85

Yes be careful and you will be fine.

I measured both sides as the rad and engine seem to almost always be different diameters. Bend a coat hanger or small tube to the shape you need as a template. Scour the parts store inventory until you find something close enough to work and buy the closest 2 or 3 hose. I've had luck with this but it can take some patience and maybe two trips to the store. Cameron

Yes cut high, as in almost straight out from the high point of the well. With 25" tires (likely with 17" rims) and full use of suspension such as racing and you will need all you can get. This is my experience with the group by Rotas and also had to recut higher to clear. With the old 23" race tires this was not an issue. All this is with ZG flares. They work but I had to pinch the ends together some and redrill new mounting holes so they wouldnt rub. Cameron

For the pedal box, I reinforced the box itself during the swap to dual masters. Since its attached to the body in several places, stiffening the box itself worked well.

I bought a 'from a top Nascar team' used wide sweep Autometer from e-bay then a sender to fit the LS. The sender goes in the port towards the back of the passenger head. Hint its metric. Cameron

The factory put then there for a reason and with all the debate I hooked up the vents. Cut the upper radiator hose and unsert a splice to tee in the vent. Seems to be what most do. This is like the heater line looped or blocked debate and I havent found more than speculation to answer that one either.

0.12" is about twice what the front rails need to be IMO. 0.065 should be plenty stout and more than the factory had orignally. Cameron

Nothing. My stock f-body oil pan sticks ~1/2" below the crossmember and I've had no issues in 4 years of track and street use. Cameron

I bought a used Grizzly bandsaw which I think is about equivalent to HF. Its SOOO nice to cut with a blade instead of fiber chop saw or cut-off wheels on a grinder. I use it all the time. Dont know why you would want a portable (im assuming the hand held kind) to build exhaust? The combo vertical / horizontal works great. Never realized how handy the horizontal feature would be until I got it. Every garage needs one of these. Cameron

This - no issues. Used the donor Camaro ECM mount and fuse block.

I had to shim the OBX differently than the factory lsd it replaced so at least for me it wasnt plug and play. Cameron

Way to go Jon. I know its been a long road for you so glad to see a major milestone complete. When is the target to move under its own power? Cameron PS - the front swaybar end links look to be at a somewhat severe side angle. That in and of itself should not be a problem but if that angle changes drastically through suspension travel the effective motion ratio of the swaybar changes as well causing varying rates and potentially unpredictable handling. Looks like you could just shim the upper connection to the swaybar out to fix. <-------- someone recently read Tune to Win

Ahh hell. 25" tire + zg flairs + functional headlights = max ~6 deg caster which is where I already was. Im finding to be able to add any more caster or even go much wider requires major surgery with these 25" tires . The tire gets into the fender even with it trimmed all the way to the flair and it even hits the headlight housing when steered. Taller bumpstops could help but Ive only got a little over 2" of bump travel the way it is. Now need a plan B ?

I reused the stock cap from the stock radiator so there is nothing special there and you should be able to get a generic replacement cap one from local auto parts store. The Champion cools the LS1 a lot better than the stock radiator did but is still not good enough for extended track use in my experience. Im now shopping for an upgrade for next season to hopefully bring down coolant temps. Thinking about Ron Davis dual pass but dont know yet. Cameron PS: If anyone is looking for stock replacement or a Champion radiator near Central Il let me know as they are just taking up space and I would like to sell them.

This revived thread reminds me .... Im running the single adjustable Koni 'race' struts with 425/375 springs. They are several years old now and seem to be seeping a little. Ive felt no problems with them but Im thinking maybe it time to replace or rebuild. Question is should I send them for rebuild or just replace? If rebuilt would they be better revalved? Im getting to the point of trying to eek out every tenth but have yet to play with struts. Thanks Cameron PS - those larger diameter shaft struts seeem like a really good idea.

You talking V8 Supercars? I keep looking at them but in a recent Racecar Engineering magazine they showed details of the cars. The aero is spec (splitter, side skirts, wing) but one of the teams interviewed quoted a low downforce number and basically said the aero package was for high speed stability but didn't contribute much to overall performance. They also dont vent anything out hood hood like most of us do. This make me question copying them if they aren't that effective. NASCAR also uses the splitter and wide front end with really low sides but seem to be able to generate much more downforce doing so but again they have and open engine bay. Still can't find any solid tech more than general statements. Cameron

My car is dedicated V8 track car. I have tried the 9.5 vs 9 in the front and the rear and ended up with the wider rims in the front. Wish I had the wider ones all around. They are all 255 tires but you can still tell a difference. You made a wise choice IME. Cameron

Side splitters like this? http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/ghtp_1201_aerodynamic_tweaking_racing_drag/photo_21.html Heres a combo that goes out down and out again plus starts inboard behind front wheel and angles out (similar to V8 supercars) http://files.conceptcarz.com/img/Chevrolet/chevy_corvette_c6R_DV_05_NYC_02.jpg Watching FIA GT1 race the other day the winning Ferarris looked old school just straigh down below the doors and didnt even go out to meet the huge flares. Seems there very little detailed tech out there at least that I can find.

My internet search fu is weak and I cant find good tech on functional side skirts. Looking to hopefully reduce drag and get more front aero. Looking at pics from professional teams they seem all over the map. Some blend out from the front wheel wells, some dont, some are vertical, some are horizontal, some are both, etc. Where's to good tech? After the dogleg rust repair is over the goal is to fab some skirts for next season. Thanks Cameron

I only have experience up to about 145. That was pre splitter but was still rock solid. I have same airdam as you 25" tires and front control arms 5 deg down with 3/4" 'bumpsteer spacers' (I dont use them for bumpsteer). This puts the splitter at about 4" off the ground and thats directly attached to the airdam not spaced down like yours. Your car looks really high and I think needs to be much lower. Even at 4" the splitter is noticeably effective so it doesnt have to be super low to work but may work better lower I dont know. My brake ducts are connected to those recesses in the airdam. Cameron

Rollbar only no cage. Heres a thread on the progression and setup. My next planned move is wider front end and more caster plus more aero ..... after I finish the damn dogleg rust. Cameron

Its tedious but a couple hours later and Ive taken 7 lbs out leaving the hinge and latch. Hoping to be able to take at least another lb or two. Im now having a bit of hackers remourse as when I do eventually make a composite version mine hoodmwill be more flexible and not make as good of a mold from. Oh well Im going to keep at it. It all adds up and my 100 lb weight reduction goal will take a bunch of little stuff to have a remote chance. Cameron

I would do some math on the balance you will get, pedal effort, etc with your set-up. There are some online calculators or search here for what others have done. You may get lucky just picking something but with your hybrid system its worth some time to estimate where you should be. To do that you need more than just 4 piston and single piston you need the poston diameters, your weight distribution, etc. I found 11.25 front / 11 rear couldnt produce enough rear bias but thats just with my caliper piston sizes, tires, weight distribution, etc so you may be better or worse with your set-up. A proportioning valve can only reduce the rear not add to it. So either pick a known good set-up or engineer a new one, either way will work depending on how you go about it. Brake bias is more an art than science for the average person (vertical CG height being impractical to measure so you have to guess) so steal shamelessly from those who've been successful would be my recommemdation. I actually went against the Tilton engineers recommendation as it didnt line up with my previous experience and am glad I did. Cameron

Have to ask why change rear suspension? What are you hoping to accomplish and what's the purpose of the car?

Thanks just what I needed. Thats worth it then since it will get close to half way there. Enough other stuff to do now I think Ill save a new hood project for next year and take what I can get cheap and easy. Cameron