heavy85

So is there really any difference between the high speed vs the standard speed G router? N routers at ~$170 are just too much when I can get a basement G model for $35 - I can always upgrade later for that much difference! Thanks Cameron

Well this is sort of a 'tech' question but anyway seems to fit best here. I bought my wife a laptop for x-mas and am shopping for a wireless router. I am clueless. It's a Dell and has a N wireless card. We have cable modem which I have been told is only about up to G card speed. Went to Best Buy today and there were four basic options for the G card. What appears to be the brand name Linksys (or something close) which comes in the basic for $50 or the high speed for $70. There was a what appears to be the generic by Belkin which is only $35 then there was another brand I dont remember which is equivalent to the high speed Linksys for $45 but again looks very generic. Any recommendations? We also have a Circuit City but I have yet to look there. The laptop will be used for photo editing including uploading to host/photo labs and web surfing. Thanks ahead for any advice. Thanks Cameron

My assumption is the bar twists about it's center. If you mount the bar off of centerline at both ends then how can it twist? This has nothing to do with stiction or range of motion of the bearings it's a pure mechanical thing. The real effect depends on what part of the bar is bending to begin with. I'm assuming the longer portion that connects the two sides in a 'normal' bar is doing most of the bending. Since you are holding the ends of this portion relative to each other you are forcing the twist to occur in the bend of the bar or the shorter legs that go to the endlinks. There is effectively less bar that can freely twist and therefore leading to my thoughts that the rate would go up. So the real question is when will this thing be on the road! If I get the PCM back I will start the LS1 up for the first time over Christmas. Cameron

Your brake booster looks a little off - does that have anything to do with it....

Benetton anyone??? Cameron

I'm not running the starting circuit through the PCM so I think the bypass module would work fine but I was also under the impression that module was all you needed for start/fuel/ect. What I'm worried about is some derate or ??? that the computer will enforce since the sensors are not plugged in. Depending on the answer to this question I may take you up on that module. Thanks Cameron

I'm VERY close to being able to start the LS1 up for the first time and am contemplating what to do with the PCM. If I just use a VATS by-pass box can I start it up and run without issue ... well other than the check engine light is always on? Will it run in some sort of derated protection or enrichment or something? I guess what I'm getting at is do I really have to have the PCM flashed to get rid of rear o2 sensors, air pump, etc if I'm willing to live with the check engine light? Eventually I will probably have it flashed out but am still trying to figure out the best way to go there and want to get it running over Christmas break. Thanks Cameron

Gas pedal (I cut the end off and welded it to the end of the Datsun pedal to use the unmodified LS1 throttle cable), fuel tank and lines (I took the soft lines apart that connect to the tank and re-used the ends plus took the hard lines & tee near the fuel filter and cut, jointed, flared to re-use them), fuel tank mounting straps, gas tank filler neck (cut twice and extend and slides right into the Datsun fill neck), plastic brackets that hold the PCM and fuseblock, shifter boot, driveshaft (haven't had it shortened yet so I dont know how the aluminum shaft will work), OBD connector. That's all I can think of that I used. Cameron

Uh is it just me or is anyone else wondering how red+green=orange??? Cameron

What happened to the stock shell of a dash you were working on? Cameron

I dont think my first Z ... way back in high school ... ever had working brake booster. It was REAL hard to push the brake pedal. Just disconnect and try. Ended up getting a ticket for being too lazy to completely stop at a stopsign due to this. It almost takes both feet on the pedal if there's a long light. Cameron

I'm curious why you say linking the LCA mounts is not needed. Is it due to what Jon has done up top with the diagonals from the cage? The crossmember sure seems like a good way to distribute the LCA loads into the frame. Generally you want to connect the loads in straight lines where possible?

I have one from a '72 that's in great shape. PM with an offer if your interested. Shipping would be from 62521. Cameron

I would want to tie the control arm mounts together directly some way for the most direct load path. It seems the tranny tunnel really weakens the center of the car and the factory crossmember does a decent job of tying the sides together. Maybe just cut out those tubes you added to the crossmember to take the weight out ... or just get another unmodded crossmember as they dont weigh that much. I didn't design the factory part but my oppinion is it serves three basic functions 1) hold the control arm on, 2) hold the front of the diff, 3) add strength to the frame to help handle loads from the control arms. Cameron

Your local industrial hose store. Even our small town has two of them. They are usually known as 37 degree JIC fittings in the industrial world instead of AN but they are the same. Cameron

Master is a -3, the hose (at least the one that was recommended on this board and was very expensive from Summit and is too short) is -4. I had to get a -3 to -4 and a 90 deg swivel elbow. Now need to get out my hose stretcher as the hose it ~1" too short... oh and I forgot the depth of the flare is huge so the std -3 to -4 adapter is too short. OK so I'm probably not the best example to listen to as I'm in about $150 so far and I have nothing that will work. Sorry just a little frustrated as I thought I could take the advice of a post here and save some time ... Cameron

Been down a year for the ls1 swap. Engine is back in and will be driving by spring '08 ... a year later than planned but the while I'm at it got to me. Was a fast autox'er / occassional driver before that. Cameron

That's the first thing I thought of ... not sure what that's says about me ... That $600 respirator is there for a reason. Silicosis (spel?) is a serious thing and killed a lot of miners back in the day. Cameron

Sorry good Doctor but I've never really bought 'resident time' theory. It is a fact that copper transfers heat almost twice as good as aluminum does. So for the exact same shape, tube size, fins, etc you are going to get much better performance out of copper but it is relatively very expensive and very heavy. I dont get the whole large tube / slow flow thought process. Kind of like the orifice in the water pump - I think it's to prevent pump cavitation another side benefit other than allowing the water more time to go through the radiator, although it may be used to reduce water pump power draw. Think about it - if by having slower flow you have more time to cool off in the radiator it also means you have more time to heat-up in the engine which means you just have a higher temperature rise across your engine. If the gauge is at the outlet of the radiator you may think the engine is running cooler but if you look at the water coming back into the radiator it's not really. Anyway I'm digressing and theorizing so take it for what it's worth. Back on topic ... you actually want turbulent flow both on the water and air side to get the best heat transfer - slow flow does not get you this. Very efficient coolers often use turbulators on the water or oil side (oil cooler) to get the best heat transfer out of them. These are often like little offset fins inside the tubes to mix up the flow. Trying to slow the flow seems to be just a bandaide to a low cost, inefficient design or a way to get a 'one size fit's all' approach that is not too restrictive and is good enough for most applications. Sorry for the long post here ... Cameron

I dont know what the problem is here but yes copper is a much better conductor than aluminum (almost twice) and you will get better performance out of copper for a similar size radiator. Copper is heavy and expensive which is why aluminum is used more for racing. Cameron

It funny ... well depressing actually ... how fast things degenerate. I should have written 'a big honkin V8' and a 'high strung turbo 2 liter' ... of course then it would have degenerated into 4 vs 8 cylinders ... but in the end I really dont care 'cause the engine is now back in the car for the final time. I keep looking for what I forgot before I put everything back in but so far I haven't found it. I figure it'll be good for 12's in the 1/4 and should be good for FTD at the local autox unless I've really screwed up the balance or the BM shows up. With the L6 I was usually ~1/2 sec off FTD from a really fast guy in a Z06 (actually beat him once) but with the 125 or so extra ponies and a much stiffer chassis I figure I should be able to shave off the last 1/2 second. PS: "all he has is big turbo, big FMIC, exhaust, turbo, stand alone engine management and stock internal except for the cam". That adds up to probably $5-10k depending on quality of parts??? If that is 'all' then 'all' I'm doing to the L6 is an LS1 upgrade for the same $$. Cameron

EVO: 286hp @ 3263 lb or 0.0876 hp/lb GTO: 350-400hp @ 3725 lb or 0.0939-0.107 hp/lb That's only a 7%-12% increase in hp/lb but the seat of the pant feel is absolutely night and day difference so my point was the observation of 'there's no replacement for displacement'. Sure anything can be built to beat anything and my point was not to degenerate into 'my completely not stock blah blah can beat the snot out of a stock blah blah.'. It's the big grin factor ... and the Z's a good 1,000+ lb lighter so I can only imagine. Anyway for now it's just got a K&N on the MAF and a dual 2.5" exhaust but otherwise it's stock. I figure I'll take a year to get used to it then probably go with a cam swap. Also starting with the 3.9 LSD from the L6 days so we'll see how that goes as well. Cameron

Last weekend I took the SVT Focus daily driver (yes it's a Ford and yes it's a POS but I'm not brand loyal or anything) to the last autocross of the season. Had to get at least one fix this year since the LS1/240Z swap is not complete. Anyway I was instructing a couple new guys and it really hit home what I'll have when it's driving next spring (yes 2008 and that's my final answer!). Anyway, one was a newer GTO and every time he hit the pedal my head hit the seat. Nice feeling. The other car was an EVO and when I said punch it he would but you could barely tell that anything was happening. I know the EVO doesn't quite have the power of the GTO but the 5.7 liters of head snapping torque vs the high strung turbo four banger was night and day. More so than the raw HP numbers would indicate. Makes me glad of the LS swap choice and now I'm even more anxious to get it done. I picked up the engine mounts, crossmember, etc from the powerdercoater today so hopefully this weekend the engine will be back in for the last time! Now it's mostly putting it back together and tying up some loose ends but the light at the end of the tunnel is starting to appear. Cameron

... so that's what the directions are for ... guess I forgot a step in there ...

Zero Rust does not seize the lid to the can but I found out the hard way that once the can is open it will start to harden in the can and make a mess later when you try to stir it up. Zero Rust seems to be easily scratch able so I'm questioning the durability to rock chips and such on the floors & fenderwells but I guess we'll see. Cameron