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Kudos to bjhines....excellenmt call on the faulty caliper diagnosis!!! Tom

Wow! I now have a green box..........thank you kindly administrators!

Niiiiiiiice! I love the looks of your Z.

Come on guys, didn't you see the dweeb was trying to answer his cell phone?

Your not alone on this issue......I don't know how many times I've helped people out over the years on this forum with good information and I still have the "unknown quanity square" under my avatar! Makes no sence to me...but then again, it will not effect me in helping others out in the future. Maybe one of the administrators will allow me a green square???? Tom

Do own a FSM (factory service manual)?

Just curious...are rear tire changes a monthly event? Man, I'll bet it's a real hoot to drive!

Andrew, Just a thought.....since the exhaust flange you will be water-jetting are .375" thick, why not also provide appropriately thick stepped washers to accomodate an easy intake manifold install! Just an idea.

Just for clearification....stub axles are the short axle assemblies in your rear strut assemblies. I believe you are talking about your half shafts or drive axles.

Didn't Mallory address that issue some time ago? If you have any pics of the failure I would be interested in seeing it katman. You are correct however...there are other options besides a UniLite!

I have no experience with these units however, they do look like a simple design. The one drawback I see is that if you change between one camber setting to another you have to drill a new hole for the position securing screw. Maybe some of the track guys have seen this style camber adjuster and can comment.

First of all you need to decide how far out you intend to go with your wheels.......1/8", 3/16", 1/4"....ect., etc. Also, with stock mounting studs you will be limited...as you will want to maintain sufficient thread interface between the studs and wheel lug nuts. A good starting point is to park your Z on level ground with the front wheels straight ahead, then get out your tape measure and start checking the distance between the inner fender lip and the outside of your tires/wheels. Other things to consider.....suspension movement in bump as well as clearance when turning the front wheels. If you want to move the wheels out beyond where you can still use the stock mounting studs, you will probably need to go to an wheel adaptor, that are somewhere in the neighbgorhood of a minimum of 1" thick or wider and have mounting studs installed between the holes for the stock wheel studs. Hope this info helps you move forward a bit? Good luck! Tom

There is a company named AFCO that has all sorts of chassis goodies.....check out their website! Nice folks to deal with by the way.

And if the street riding gets you spooked too much....take to a dirt bike! This way you can experience pain with the aid of cars.

Interesting why some folks think the UniLite is not so good....been running one since 2000 and have experienced zero issues! Mine works perfectly.

I'll bet there's going to be one pissed off dude when he get back from travel and discovers his R200 is gone!!!! And who do you think will be sleepng on the couch?

Man, I'm jealous...........the paint looks perfect!

I have to agree with RacerX.....usually the crossover point for subwoofers is under 400Hz and at those low frequencies the signal is omni directional. Also, a good solid and well damped enclosure with sufficient volume is a plus for better bass sound quality.

With good materials, some sensible engineering, and doing a correctly done installation.....using wheel spacers is not a safety issue. Some of these old wives-tails generally come from poorly done jobs!

This is what I did when installing wheel spacers. I actually replaced my stock wheel studs with 1/2" x 3" Morroso wheel studs, which required enlarging the stud mounting holes in the hubs to fit the new studs. I turned my own spacers from 6061-T3 aluminum and bored the stud through holes on a milling machine with an indexing table, to insure concentricity. I purchased the chunk of 6061 round stock from a metal surplus store for $80.00....a bit cheaper than from a metal supplier at around $200.00 for the same size chunk and same grade alum. The spacers slid over the new studs perfectly and without any play.....all was perfectly in alignment. The difference between the original 12mm studs and the new 1/2" studs was insignificant and my wheels slid right on without resizing the wheel stud holes. My widest spacer (F) is approximately 28.5mm. I have experienced zero issues with this method.

As John mentioned, the struts are a structural member and band-aids fixes are not such a good idea. If you want to sleeve the tube, put the sleeve on the outside of the tube. As I remember during the sectioning of my struts, I had to grind away a little bit of the weld bead that penetrated a tiny bit on the inside of the strut tube just so my Tokico inserts would fix in properly.

Come on....be really bold and put that tat on your forehead so everyone can enjoy it!!! Seriously, at 17 years of age you my want to reconsider having a tat. Sure it's currently a popular trend and many have gone under the needle, only to regret their decision later in life. That just my opinion however!

I don't believe anyone mentioned anything negative about the Z, just that it looked out of place with all the American iron.