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HybridZ

2126

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Everything posted by 2126

  1. tube80z, very interesting post , by Mark Ortiz......pretty deep too! Good stuff however! As most senerios go, the more you know about a subject the more there is to know!
  2. Regarding the grille area....how about a cleaned up (no holes) chrome stock bumper and a 432 grille screen? Car looks great anyway!
  3. Rudy, I can't say about the front setup...but I believe the rear calipers from a Maxima, a 240SX, and a 280ZXT are the same units.
  4. John, let's get serious.....did you really think you were going to get mileage out of a set of intermediates......NOT!!!
  5. Mike, purchasing the BX is a sure sign you are spending too much time in the sun....and way too practicle for a HYBRIDZ member to own. Was it just a senior moment???
  6. 2126

    pics of car

    Read the entire thread....then you'll know!
  7. From all that I've read on static roll center....from approximately 3" above ground to at or slightly below ground. I've also read that the later is not preferable on early Z's. On my Z, with 1.5" shortened struts, coilovers, and with slightly less than 4" ground clearance at the front crossmember, I'm getting ready to relocate my LCA pivot point. The hopes are to minimize my bump steer....also, when I physically graphed where my static roll center will be with the LCA mod incorperated, I should be at around 3" above ground as opposed to the at ground position with the original LCA pivot locations. But for some basic useful information.....with your Z sitting normally, look at the position of your LCA's.....if they have a slight downward angle (lower point, nearest the wheel) or parrallel to the ground, you will likely be OK. You do not want an upward angle. In this instance you will not be getting the intended camber curve during bump (suspension compression). I'm no expert, but this is what I've learned from my research...hope it helps you to some degree.
  8. First of all, you do not indicate what car you have that you want to put the Z32 booster/MC on!!! Secondly, is your current set-up working fine or has it gone south? Regarding the master cylinder, you will want to stay with the same sized bore as your current set-up, otherwise you will be asking for problems....a basic hydraulic issue! Basically, you have not provided enough info!
  9. I've got to agree that the American iron (OHV engines) are outstanding. Shoot, even Toyota built an OHV engine so they could compete in NASCAR. What I'm waiting to see is, if Toyota stuff their OHV engine into one of their production cars! Wouldn't that be interesting?
  10. I don't think so! Just standard caps! Why do you ask?
  11. The bolt patterns are the same for both the Z and ZX, with a 4 bolt pattern.
  12. An issue I encountered, and this goes for just about all aftermarket seats, is the amount of clearance you will have between your head and the headliner after your install. I'm 5' 10" tall and long in the torso...so for me to get enough head room (more would be better for a helmet), I went with a suspension type seat as opposed to the pricier units that have a complete seat shell and did not use sliders. I bolted directly to the stock seat crossmembers. Just some food for thought, for those planning on new seats. Of course, if you are a bit shorter than I am, you may not have the same head room issue. I just didn't want to feel like I was sitting in a Kenworth....instead, I prefered the low sports car seating position.
  13. I've heard that urethane bushings, anti-roll bars, good shocks, and sticky tires will help out!!!!!!!!!!!!?????????????
  14. If you are in fact replacing your exh/int studs...do yourself a favor and purchase stainless steel studs and use never-sieze when instlling them. If you do this you will likely never again have an issue with the studs. Actually, I recommend contacting ARP bolts. They have the best hardware available...in my opinion anyway.
  15. Jamie T, To add to John's post.....a McPhereson strut is used in a steering application (front suspension) and a Champman strut is used in a non-steering application (rear suspension).
  16. You might try contacting "TOO INTENSE RESTORATIONS"
  17. Regarding your stuck driveshft yoke......now this is just a thought, but when splined couplings have been in service for a long time they will wear to some degree, within their range of movement (slight in and out movement). Beyond their range of movement you still have splines that have not been subjected to the wear. At the ends of the worn spline a bur developes, which may be the resistance you are encountering. So, the slide hammer may just be the ticket. Once the yoke does come off, you can dress up (remove) these burs if you intend to use the assembly again. Just a possibility to consider.
  18. You may want to be more specific about what you need! Do you need the entire assembly or just the pull one sees from inside the car? Anyway, try the salvage yards, Motorsport Auto (MSA), Nissan parts dept.,........do a little searching on the net and you should discover there are many sources for these older Zs.
  19. Mat, Regarding your idea of a bridge type unit to span the area in question, how about fabricating a personal device that you would put on like a shoulder holster, under your clothes and or driving suit, that would prevent any type harness from pinching off the artery or effecting said area. Just some food for thought!
  20. Terry, when I was researching what seats would fit in the Z the easiest, based mostly on seat width, I finally went with the SPARCO SPRINT seats. They are non adjustable entry level certified racing seats and are REALLY COMFORTABLE. Corbeau and MOMO both have a similar seat. I can drive around on a Sunday outting for hours without any discomfort. Check then out! And, they are all in the $200.00 to $250.00 each price range.
  21. IT'S STILL YOUR TYPICAL DUMB COMMERCIAL...just like the rest of them. Sorry, I just hate commercials
  22. Just curious! If the trip is only 80 miles each way (160 miles round trip) and you used 8 gallons to make the round trip...that equates to 20 MPG!!?
  23. Ok, I have to agree it's pobably useless! But, right up front they tell you its for diesel fuel! I don't think any of us are using a diesel engines anyway. I think the hole advertisment is intended to play on peoples emotions.......Its done every day in advertising.
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