stony

mine is a late 260..but what would i do with worn out stock shocks?

wow thanks for the info. Mine will be setup for the track. It is a mustang 8.8 with the ears but they wont be used. mine is going to be a ladder bar setup with coilover shocks. will have 33 spline axles, spool, billet caps, 4.56 gears, aluminum diff cover, wilwood brakes. the rearend is getting all welded up now and hopefully will be ready to start cutting on the car in a couple weeks. man i cant wait

Anyone know if they exist for a Z strut? Im looking at replacing my inserts for some inserts and springs more geared for drag racing.

Just curious if there are any other Zs out there with a ford 8.8 rearend? As some may know im in the progress of doing this now. The rearend housing is all welded up just waiting on some time to take the car to the shop to start cutting and welding on the car.

some people have been asking about these pics so i revived it

the GTiR is the GTR's lilttle brother or sister however you wanna look at it. the bad thing about those cars is if you get anything more then 350 whp and get good traction you will grenade the tranny. I saw it happen once and it wasnt pretty

roger that I'm not saying It's not rated at that... but that it is more equivelant to a 3.9 then a 1.3

http://travel.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine4.htm animation of a rotary. each side of the rotor sucks air compresses it and spits it out. yes it takes 3 rotations of the eccentric shaft to do it but it still does it. BTW sorry for the hijacking of this thread

Ok without reading all 15 plus pages of people arguing back and forth about what the displacement is (I have already heard it all). I understand the theory of why it’s a 1.3. I just feel the way it’s measured is bogus. Do this If you are only going to count the one side of the rotor take the spark away from the other two side and see how it runs. Don’t get me wrong I love rotaries but to say a 1.3-L motor can produce 6-800 HP is not right. You have to measure each side of the rotor to get a "true" displacement. A 1.3 does not move enough air to spool a turbine with a 1.05 exhaust housing. Aux I’m not trying to get in a pissing match. In my opinion you can not compare the piston engine with the rotary to get displacement it is a totally different design. This is just my honest opinion on the rotary. The are allot of people that agree and disagree.

Yes, a 13b has an intake, compression, and cumbustion action for each side of the rotor (3 sides, 2 rotors). Im not a pro.... this is just the basic undserstanding that i have of the rotary. when you displace a piston motor you measure each piston. I guess mazda got away with measuring one side of the rotor because there was only one.

Thats what its rated at but thats only 1 side of each rotor. if you add them all up its a 3.9 and thats more in line with the kind of power it makes...also fuel it consumes.

Sr20s can be built to 400HP relatively cheap and be reliable. for a bigger chunk of cash you can get 600-700. a 400 hp sr20 will kill a 400 L or v-8. The long block can be picked up by a relatively beefy guy...a rotary long block is only slightly lighter. there is a fd rx7 on this board that is running 10.7s with a sr20 swap. the fd is quite a bit heavier then the Z also. My 2 cents. Its not a downgrade.

here's the link http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=84 the zip files is 2 or 3 posts down

yes. they (klaus) put out an update that enable realtime reading with teh laptop hooked up.

speeder dop you have the realtime monitoring update? i have heard it's the poop.

Also to make a screen shot hit the print srceen button.... then open a word doc and hit the paste button. then save it like any other doc or pic.

why is that so up and down? i was expecting to see a line graph kinda like a dyno graph. Anyone download the realtime read upgrade yet?....anyway you can make an mpeg or something to link to. Im interested in how that looks even if its just at idle.

well the rb has the zr mounts going for it where you can use the stock driveshaft. If you use the 2jz you will have to make everything from scratch. If i were in the states and wanted big power i would go with the GN motor with an auto. 2nd would be a 2jz because its starting to catch on pretty good in the US. The only reason i did the rb was becasue i was in japan and plan on going back.

the rb25 will bolt in like the rb26 but the intake over the top will not clear the hood. you will need some sort of aftermarket or custom intake manifold. They are usually around 1000 bucks if you can find one used. Once you get the manifold you will need a throttle body. By the time you get what you need your damn close to the price of the rb26. In my humble opinion go rb26 or nothing at all. the power potential in the long run far outweighs any of the other engines. Unless of course you never plan on doing any upgrades. and want modest gains over the L motor

there is a hybridz video out there somewhere

My engine

Yea I’m maxed out at 400hp with the stock ceramic turbos @ 15 PSI the stockers can be modified to Super 60s. It's basically a 62 trim, T3 comp wheel and the clipped steel exh wheel. The Nismo GT LeMans Turbo's have the same wheel, but a larger A/R housing. The pair should support about 550hp @ 22psi with some 264 cams. The rb26 is so detuned that simple bolt ons make lots of horsepower without using aftermarket intakes big single turbos ect ect. You can take an rb26 bolt on a set of upgraded twins that use all the stock piping (quite large) plug in 680cc or larger injectors and install a larger intercooler and you have 500+RWHP. Throw a head gasket in it turn up the boost and 600+ is easy

the stock turbos can be modded to handle 500+ and a set of 2530 can handle 600 all retain stock plumbing.

heres what you need this kit is only 1000 bucks right now but 2 days left http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g12320227

post the URL's please ;>