stony

bad wide band sensor???

tried to PM you but your box is full. Sorry this is off topic but you know I saw on nico you were using the wolf system on a rb25. was it pretty easy to install??? plug and play or did you have to fabricate mounts for sensors ect ect. biggest thing im interested in is something that can use the rb crank angle sensor for timing.

There should be an area in the computer that you set your firing order that's what I think we are talking about. If you know it's right then not sure what to tell you

I don't care either way. If i were to do it again say if the rb exploded and wasn't savable, i would go turbo v-8. I have said from all the way back in the late 80s. If the US ever gets a hold of turbo tech and applies it to the v-8 it's over. A turbo on a small displacement motor makes up the displacement of a bigger engine but add a turbo to the big engine then where do you go???

Nope basically everything is a butt weld. its gonna be messy but nothing a sanding disc cant handle. I was thinking about the bonding thing with the red car. basically make a flanged area for the replacement panel to lay in. we will see.

Well, got the quarter fitted and the wheel well stretched. Now just need to start tacking everything together. Any advice before i start welding???? Also is a non gas mig ok for putting this together. I know it will be messy just concerned on whether or not it will work.

I agree those numbers don't sound right

Just going thru some stuff and wanted to see if anyone has any updates.

Can you send it to AEM and have them set everything to zero??? tell them what it is doing and have them look thru everything. other then that not sure what to tell you. But it for sure sounds like a rev limiter. your boost gauge was acting kinda funny to. looks like it started to build boost then lost it. if the pedal wasn't lifted that might be an issue to. you shouldn't be bouncing around like that.

No I broke halfshafts then stub shaft then upgraded to z31 cv axles with chromoly bars. Didn't use an adpter made custom length axles and adapted the strut housing to carry the correct bearings. IMHO the only way to maintain an IRS in a z with 400+ hp you need to completely replace the stock rear suspension.

I disagree with you. watch the video in my sig. my engine would qualify for what you mentioned. overlay a 700whp v-8 with mine and there is a huge difference. But if the smaller motor setup is done correctly it will be in it peak HP and Torque range all the way down the track. Now if you talking 15 MPH roll a NA motor will always get the jump on me but i will real them in pretty quick once the turbo spools ;>

mine was for a Klondike bar :>

definitely sounds like a rev limiter of some sort. if you have checked everything i would suggest contacting AEM and ask some questions

In case i didn't say it the Nitrous is only used while the trans brake is engaged. once i release the brake the solenoid turns off and I'm 100% boost (30PSI)

I had a 4:88/w an rb25 5 speed at one time. made for great launches and put me in the top of 5th gear thru the traps, but this was with a stock engine with 400rwhp. if i made more power and didn't break anything i would have had to re-gear or use bigger tires. Also remember with higher gearing your putting more torque thru the rear end. i actually broke a stub shaft before i even staged just checking traction. popped the clutch at around 2500 rpm and POW....

if you maintain the stock stub shafts they WILL break. hope you have disc brakes that will be the only thing that keeps the wheel under the car when it brakes. I went as far as adapting Z31 cv axles into my struts. all i did was move the weak point out closer to the wheels. the only solution is going with the entire z32 or r32 gtr axle. the only way you can do that that i know of is the TTT rearend kit.

Breaking the way it did was kinda freak. Kinda confirms to me that the original u-joints are much stronger then anything on the aftermarket today. Breaking halfshafts in a hi power (350+RWHP) is not uncommon especially in clutch cars.

TTT rear-end in line here. If that doesn't work then well you see the route i went. Just for your info. if you get it down the track you should be mid 10s. i was at 392 rwhp and i was able to get a best 11.138 at 121 mph before i started having half shaft issues. Sorry for bringing back from the dead

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=152120

Can you take a video of it running and doing what you are describing.

You say you looked at timing and fuel but have you looked at those values in the boost pressure area. you could be starting to boost and if the boost cut is set at o or +1 wamo.... just something i learned a long time ago ;>

I'M running an automatic and i could not get my single to spool till i was about 330 feet down the track. I added a 75 shot that was only activated on the transbrake. i plan on adding a boost sensor that will keep the shot going till i reach a certain PSI. unfortunately most classes limit power adders to only one. eventually i will have to decide if i want to fix the stall on my converter or just keep running nitrous. Here is the last run i did without nitrous and here is the last run with nitrous.

My new wheels have arrived. the offset will let me use stock wheel openings Fuel cell is done.... waiting on door bar swing out parts to come in currently back order. Once they come in and are installed the chassis part of the car is done !!!!

What size are your wheels??? i especially need to know what the offset or backspacing is

It has to be the rear half of the 2 part drive shaft from a r33 gts-t with the rb25 the same car also has teh 5 speed tranny. it also HAS to be Z31 rb20 eng mounts. and everything bolts in. just the tranny mount had to be fabricated. I would not attempt this unless you have a friend in japan that can verify parts you are getting. BTW when i posted this back in 2002 that was the only option unless you made everything yourself. there are now a few other options that would be less risky and probably be cheaper when you factor in shipping