stony

I think that's what everyone has been talking about. you need to, or have someone look at all the cells in the tuning range. you should see nice smooth increases or decreases. For example if under no boost acceleration you see an increase of say 2-3 % then one cell or series of cells suddenly jumps or drops drastically that's what your problem is. I had a similar problem with SDS. Since it was originally setup in okinawa (HOT) once i got to Alaska it would hardly start and run until i looked at the engine temp settings. there was an area that was way off in the lower temp area. once i fixed it it started and ran perfect. This will apply across the board in any engine variable like timing, boost, ect ect. lets set you are starting to make boost at 3500 BUT in the part of the map that adds or takes away fuel in that boost area is way off well again. here's another example. you start making boost at 3500... when you reach that certain boost timing is pulled or advanced 20 degrees well get my drift. If you dropped the car at a competent tuner, that is familiar with the system you put in the car, they should be able to pinpoint the issue pretty quick. Good luck

Well got some update pics of the black car. should be done in a week or two. once its out its on the chopping block.

OK just an update. i don't need the overhead panel, tail lite panel. Thanks

I need all the plastic pieces for the rear of my 260. not looking for anything in perfect condition because i will be cutting it up to fit it around wheel tubs in a back-halved car. basically i need everything from the seat back. would also like to get my hands on a center console.

Sure....

Well the motor was around 700 at the wheels in the black car. Not to sure I'm liking the air flow sensor thing. I guess I could use the twin sensor intake. Anyways I guess I could just wire up the vpro and see how it runs up at this altitude. I pretty sure it's going to need adjustment.

If its not staged... I think it is... that kid needs some serious help

How much do you want for it. If i understand it basically you remove a piece in the stock ecu board then solder in a chip that you can plug into and tune/monitor all the same stuff as an aftermarket ECU?? the stock

I can tell you that a 4:88 will put you in the top of 5 th gear. It will also throw enough torque at the rearend it will shear z 31 stubs like they are solder. If you are go down the how do I go fast in the1/4 mile road i would have to say go with the ttt rearend with a gtr diff and built rb 25 tranny. The only other way to get down the 1/4 mile is a backhalf.

Sounds like if I had an ecu and the air flow meters nistune would be the way to go

If you have all theconnectors for the stock harness iwould suggest just running an after market ecu and build the harness for that I can't imagine how much a stock harness is going to cost.. I bet at least half of any of the top ten ecu's

Well since I'm not a shopowner and don't have acess to or the expeience with rbs as rob I will stick with my nine second rb z and like unless of course there is someone out there willing to spot some change for there name on the side of the car.

this is what those reallly good guys went thru to get where they are now

These videos reminded me of this one

When i was a kid i could ride a wheelie for how ever long i wanted, do a bunnyhop over a curb, and do several stunts off a jump to include a one leg tabletop.....

Yea. I wish

Nope just forgot i can go to the tool bar and subscribe to this thread. i have an iphone and just wanted to keep track of this thread. at the time i didn't have time to read the hole thing and didn't want to forget about it. And it worked i forgot about it and you just reminded me ;>

subscribed

you have a PM

Everything you said is true... you will go faster plain and simple... i did it so i will speak from experience. you are on the right track. what you have to also remember is with taller gears you are transmitting more torque thru the drivetrain. this means if you hook up good with good DR the potential for breaking rearend parts has greatly been increased. good luck

NAaa it wont be that big. its kinda deceiving with the angle and the 1/4 cut up. but we will see. the tire are a lot smaller then what it had. An inch is all it should need.

Thanks for all the comments. hope to have it running by next summer and ready for the track

Thanks abes moved to the link sticky

Here was the very first run ever down the track http://videos.streetfire.net/video/rb26-first-run-ever-down_8815.htm

How many times did you run???? 12.8 was my very first run and i managed to get it down into the 11.5x range by the end of teh day playing around with where i launched at rpm wise. if you can keep the rearend together you can get into the 10s pretty easy. I was at 390 rwhp and the best i got was a 11.138 with a 1.9 60 foot or something like that