stony

Well for someone that has little mech ability and or tools it will be very overwhelming. For someone that has a deep car background with lots of experience it will be easy. It's not as straightforward as a l-28 turbo swap. but it is not the hardest thing in the world either. Whats your background/experience with cars?

rb25dett???? No such monster unless it’s a custom build... if you mean rb26dett vs. rb25det... well that HAS been discussed many times and if you want my opinion.... if you’re in the states build a turbo v-8. The technology in these engine is catching up to the import turbo motors and for the same amount of money you would spend to do a rb26 swap and get say 550 rwhp you could probably do a turbo v-8 and get much more torque and HP for the same amount of money. AND if you break something you are a overnight shipment away from getting parts. But if your stuck on the rb swap... then rb26 will net your more HP in the end then an rb25.

Hey Mull i havent seen any video or pic updates of your car how's the project coming?

I have been there many times!!!! And now I'm staring at a block on an engine stand after a spun bearing. At this point I have too much money into all this crap to just give up. I have to finish it so if I decide to get out I can get some money out of it :> Keep your chin up it will come around. Like mentioned above concentrate on one thing at a time. But before you do that make a list of things to do then start knocking them out. That’s what I had to do with my car to even stay focused.

No scent just a sticker???

No machinist. just lots of measuring and swapping bearings to get the oil clearance where we want it. The calculator should help me get it right. Just to be clear to those numbers were just punched in to make sure the formulas were working correctly

some pics Nice Box... Nice packaging full spec sheet with assembly lube and some stickers...the pine tree thing is kinds gay but hey...

Couple more updates. The Brian crower rods are here. The r33 crank and all associated seal and gaskets to get the motor back together are in the mail from japan (thanks CHEFTRD AKA Matt your a lifesaver well rb saver ) After thinking about it for a while I have come to the conclusion the reason i didn't see and increase in HP when i went from 22psi to 24psi was because my alternator was bad... it wasn't putting out anything... zip, zilch nothing to the charging system so I was only running on battery power ( bad battery at that) Once we got up in the rpm the voltage steadily dropped from 12.5 down to 11.3!!! at one point it coughed and we thought it was the plugs... The new alternator is on the way with the crank and should solve that problem and we may see a significant jump in power next time just due to the fact we will have a stronger spark with the fully operational charging system....

Oh ok the old bookmark i had dosnt work anymore... you might want to send a mass PM to the members to let them know that old bookmarks dont work anymore

Just my 2 cents.... if your just beginning in the game of modification i would recommend going with some sort of standalone. If you find someone that can tune the stock ecu its not going to be cheap and it you make any changes ... well back to that specific tuner. where with a standalone, wide band and data logger you can basically turn your car into a rolling dyno.

Has been down for a couple days anyone know the scoop???? Andy????

crank is 45 lbs :>

Here is a little story i was told /shown way back in the day> Guy had a block sitting on the ground with a knock sensor hooked up so it was working. he had a big sledge hammer sitting next to the block. He said how hard do you think i need to hit this to get the knock meter to register. I figured maybe a small hammer and about the force you would use to hammer a nail.... WRONG didn't ever register. Then he picked up the sledge hammer and tapped it still nothing. He got to a point of almost swinging it like he was trying to ring the bell at the fair before it registered up to the damage range on the gage. Then he explained how when you get knock/detonation it's like hitting the top of the piston with the same amount of force every time it fires. Knock/detonation sucks!!!!

IF they actually used the stock crank... to get that kind of HP they had to be turning it to and ungodly high RPM. So when they say stock....I'm sure it is a highly modified / balanced "stock" crank

Mine dynoed at 600 at the wheels thru a powerglide so that is close to 750 at the crank. to make 1200 takes alot of money and im not sure why a person that has the money to make that kind of HP would not use a aftermarket crank for that application.....

Looks like you have a decent build.... BUT if you cant get into the computer and see what its tuned for or retune it chances are you will blow it again. The only way to 100% be sure your tune is right is to be able to look at it on a dyno BEFORE you start hammering it on the road. I would recommend going with larger injectors also. You can tune bigger injectors to run decent at idle but you cant tune smaller injectors to put out more fuel then they can. My 2 cents

Wow hadnt been keeping up with this one.... it's done take this argument to FA

I really dont need it but i was looking at it so if in the futre i needed something. It was the part i asked you about, the head to block dowels.

Well nissan here in alaska must be dipshits because they say that part number is not even a nissan part number

Care to explain how you ordered the dowl pins??? the part number you gave me is what generated that question. This... XXXXX-05U00 = RB26 parts - both late R32 and R33 parts XXXXX-42L00 = RB25 parts Dosnt seem to apply in this situation. More specifically what i was getting at is the canadian nissan parts counter different then the US since now the skyline is being imported legally???? The part number that was on the bag should have been able to be used but was not. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133658&highlight=part+number

Hey just out of curiosity is there some sort of secret language to using the part numbers you have been listing. I had part numbers for the head alignment dowels and something else that when I showed the apart number to a Nissan tech he looked at me like I was crazy

Lets hear it, reopened the thread.

Well turbo is redone... nice and smoooootttthhh again :> Now all i have to do is the motor

From eagles website... as far as i could tell eagle dosnt make billet rods. Nissan “ESP†H-Beam Connecting Rods “ESP†connecting rods are forged from 4340 steel and utilize 3/8†ARP2000 bolts with alignment sleeves for a perfect fit. Packaged in weight-matched sets (+/- 1g). Sizing is done on the state of the art Sunnen Krossgrinding™system. “ESP†connecting rods are the perfect choice for engines up to 900 HP(4 cylinder) or 1500HP (6 Cylinder).

And im not going with eagle because i got a really good price on the crower rods....that is all.