stony

So are you wondering if it will hold the additional power??? I would think it should. considering you putting it in a car considerably lighter then what the car the engine came out of. my stock pressure plate and sr20 disc held for 2 years. If i could have gotten my hands on another sr disc i would have used it.

If your going to run the motor stock it will be fine in a Z. I ran a stock pressure plate and a sr20 disc for the longest time. It held fine till i turned the boost up and even then it help good till it just wore too thing to maintain clamping pressure

MY friend you are in for a big surprise. If you have never built an rb motor (that's kinda what it sounds like) you are in for a big surprise. If you find a PRO, that can build a quality built rb motor you are going to pay out the ass.

Well you have a couple options.... sounds like the engine needs to be tuned. you can either find someone that can do a ROM tune or just go with a standalone... this way anyone can tune it. I highly recommend getting it tuned on a dyno unless you really know what your doing on the street. Consider it a investment in your motor. You wont regret it. but you will regret not doing it if you blow up the motor

AHHH ♥♥♥♥ it i have come this far and spent x amount of money why skimp now right!!!! Thanks again Andy

To tell you the truth, from what i have seen of the stock harnesses in these cars most of them need replaced anyways. I would go with a painless harness or something similar... especially if the car is already tore down. It will alleviate problems when it come time to try and start the car. when i tore mine down for the back halve i was really surprised at how many times the harness had been hacked into over the years.

Well if It's a stock motor with all stock parts except a intercooler and the ecu is chipped it may have not been chipped for your engine setup. Backfires under acceleration or deceleration or both? Did the motor sit for a long time before getting it going? I i had a similar issue with mine ... i had let it sit over the winter with out starting and fuels system was open. The fuel that was sitting in the top of the injectors evaporated and gummed up the screens causing all kinds of issues.

looks like the auto swap is done!!!!

If your motor sat for a while it may be shot. I just had to order one from Matt. Mine worked the last time it ran but a couple years of sitting and it didnt work anymore.

Hmmmm... I'm thinking you have an ignition or fueling issue. Turbo's don't really "stumble" Turbo's either work or they don't and there is usually a pretty obvious reason when they don't work

Wow!!!

13-18 inches from the exhaust port is what i have always heard. Most everyone i have ever seen installed is in the turbo housing right next to where it bolts to the exhaust housing

My main worry about that blue Z is where the turbo is at. I don't like how it sits at what looks like the lowest point on the car. The car SITS WAY TOO high for my liking but it does look good. I think the only real application would be in a drag car like the stang. That Z has got to be a plumbing nightmare with both exhaust and intake tubing running under the car. And yea how the hell does the oil feed back to the motor. I'm pretty sure you don't want oil pooled up in the center housing.

I remember last year there were some forum talking about the STS rear mounting turbo systems and how they would never work. I am not converting and not trying to convince anyone these are better but atleast one car has a Huge twin setup running in the trunk and wellll it looks like it works to me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jz74Fhy7s8

You meant crank right?

What PSI were you running there Andy??

Oh yea it's the MLS 1.2 mm HG

no jokes about reusing a condom please.....

I pretty much know the answer to this question but has anyone ever reused a cometic HG. I mean like in my situation where the only action it has seen is 6 dyno runs? Is it worth the chance that it will still work once the motor put back together ??

Now that I have mine all tore down I will get some pics of. It. I did mine in about 30 minutes with a torch and hacksaw :>

Mine in it's previous setup was at 51 front 49 rear. with the suspension i had i believe that could have been tuned out very easily. and that was with the rb20 z31 mounts.

That would be awesome thanks. I didn't ask, i just saw it mentioned in this thread while i was SEARCHING around for info

SO anyword on what the different bearing sizes are and what the part numbers are??? I'm about 2 days out from ordering my bearing for my NEW r33 crank :>

when this swap is being done, can you use the stock driveshaft, or do i need to measure, and get one made special? Stock driveshaft???? as in the l28 driveshshaft??? If you use all the parts listed in the "so you wanna do an rb swap" stickie everything bolts in./ How is the accelerator linkage redone? is it a cable linkage, or does it still use the bar linkage on the 26dett?, The pedal has to be modified to accept a cable. very easy to do look at a cable then look at the pedal and make it happen. eveyone does it different. AZC has a very well documented how to on how to convert to a cable read up at http://www.arizonazcar.com and one last thing, are you able to leave the clutch pedal like it is, or do you have to modify it in order to work. Clutch pedal dosnt require anything, you may want to rebuild the slave and master cylinder or replace with new parts to ensure its up to the task. I am trying to get some good searchinig done on these questions so please don't say use the saearch...... The search button really is my friend on a lot of things, and issues so far, so less and less of my simple questions that i wanted to ask have not been in new posts because of the search. There i didnt say search.... MANNN im getting soft in my old age

This one is done.... If you have some actual technical info on how this swap can or can't happen start another thread.