stony

After a 4 year ass rape from the chassis builder i decided to pull my old car out and buy a new one here is the first start up after dropping my new fully built rb motor after i hg swap then a full rebuild from a spun bearing ( don't let you engine sit for 4 years ) here is a dyno vid. Don't get too discouraged it's a time consuming process and aggravating at best sometimes. but when you finish you will be glad you did.

There is an adjustment screw on the linkage.

With this you don't need an adapter right? and any converter can be used that could be used with any other t-400?? Damn this is bad timing for me i do need a good tranny for the red car once i finish it but that's not going to be for a while.

Mine is a straight up drag car so i don't need anything. My IAC is gone and welded over both heat care block lines are capped and all other lines and vacuum crap under the intake is gone. then i drilled and tapped my ports for various thing i need for vacuum and ran my coolant lines to the swirl pot then to the radiator. It is really allot easier to work on. If you want to figure out all the stock crap download the FSM online and look at the diagrams. That will be the only way to figure out if you got it right.

Well hooked up the transbrake and got about 2 PSI but the map in that area needs to be adjusted because as soon as it starts to build boost it goes way rich and just bogs out. I mean oh ♥♥♥♥ get out of the garage my eyes are on fire rich!!!! SO hopefully with some more tuning we can get some boost going without even using the 2 step. Once we get to turning the 2 step on ... Well all i can say IT"S ON BIATCH ITS ON!!!!!!

All right now we are talking. The new converter is installed and well there is a noticeable difference. Before i could, with ease, foot brake the car and it would not even budge. NOW no matter how hard i try i cant keep the car from moving. and this is with the intercooler piping not installed!!!! NOW to hook up the trans brake again and and intercooler piping and try again. Hope we get some boost

Lets send this to chip foose and have my unfinished red Z OVERHAULED!!!!!!!!

We all know what an rb25 looks like how bout some more of the car !!!!!

If you click on this link it will take you to this guys album where there are alot more photos http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn87/SkylineGT_01/Omega%20Drags%20-%20Nago

Nevermind here ya go

Works fine for me. Anyone else having problems??? You may have to go to http://www.zeroyon.com and register then try the link you will not be able to see the thread without registering..... and it is worth registering.

Video to. I'm not trying to push anyone to join but becasue of past Base police infultration it is mandatory to register before you can see the forums. There is allot of cool z , skyline ect ect video and pictures. enjoy http://www.zeroyon.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23898&pid=439077&st=0entry439077

All the rb blocks have the same oil pan pattern. I have heard of guys using the rb20 Z31 pan on a rb30 block.

Mike, I believe a couple have tried but i cant find the threads. Might want to post that question to the quys on http://www.zeroyon.com its a site in okinawa and there are lots of guys there that would know that info. And if anyone wants to know zeroyon translated is 0-400m (or 1320)

Ever consider selling it with the auto? and no motor?

Or you could say screw that mess and get SDSEFI and eliminate all the bad actors that come with getting used ignition parts.

I didnt think "tight budget" and "rb swap" was legal to say. You could get arrested if you say that too often:lmao:

Wouldnt happen to be that your in aus. now would it?????

Here's a better view!!!!!

any updates?

I had a friend ask me a question about my map that reminded me about something. That map was built in japan using hi oct pump gas. Some say their gas is in the 95-98 oct range. so if the timeing looks a little aggressive well that is why

When are we going to see some video of this bad boy?

for those that may come across this later the first column is rpm second column of numbers is base timing at that rpm the third column is man pressure and 4th column is the amount of timing that is pulled or retarded at that specific pressure.

if that is too hard to read PM me your email and i will send the excel doc that has all the columns lined up and is allot easy to decipher