stony

not the one you were looking for but here is a nice one on japan yahoo auctions 680.00

how much do you drive it per week?

Ok let me put it this way..... stock for stock the sr20 is a bolt in swap. even the ka non turbo cars have all the mounts and holes needed to install the stock intercooler the sr20 240s had. There would be no fuel mods the car is allready fuel injected. Wiring is very straight forward. This would take time the first time but once you did it a couple times it would be a snap.Not sure what you mean buy water.... radiator is also bolt in. with 2 or 3 guys it could be done for sure. I dont think they are getting rich or nothing but for a bone stock swap i bet they are making 1k on the deal atleast. do 2 or 3 a month on top of the normal business, thats a pretty good suplemental income.

Kinda off topic but i was reading your sig..... did you do all the body work on your car????? If so why wouldnt you paint it yourself???? you have all the hard part done.

If the shop had a connection on motors in japan and was shipping back via container they would be making pretty good cash for 6 hours of work. not sure how much of a quality job it would be in 6 hours though. I do think it could be done if you know exactly what your doing. Think about. If your have a front clip... disco wires pull it out the bottom and install the new clip from the bottom splice some wires and bam your done. Some one that has done it a couple times and knows what they are doing could do it. A buddy of mine here in alaska owns a shop. he did the swap on a s14. he pulled the motor out the top and installed the new motor and had it running the following day. about 16 hours of labor. that was his first time doing the swap. If the s13/s14 never haad a sr20 then it would be different.

I would suggest really thinking out what you want to do with the car. Then make a plan and try your best to stick with. You see this speed thing is addicting. 8 years ago i bought my z and planned on just giving it a new paint job engine rebuild and exhaust. well My car currently is far from that!!!! Lots cheaper to just go all out in the beginning Oh yea use the search button. Sorry had to

About 50% of the shows I have seen there is always car wont start drama.... wonder if that’s staged. I will tell you that there is a crapload of sandbagging. I'm pretty sure they edit out the scenes that would identify it.

Pm with with some prices!!!!! for each individual part you have.

Just a heads up on any of the front pipes fir the rb26. They wont bolt in a Z you will have to cut both pipes off and reweld so it fits. It is alot easier then making it from scratch though. Thats what i did with mine. I bought mine when i was in japan. I will ask a fews guys that i know to see if they can find one.

Ok I watched tonight new episode on speed and who did I see????? Nate Prichard running a regal and some guy and an S-10.... but guess who was in his crew!!!!!!! Barney from the infamous 1quickZ episode. Is the field getting that small that they have to keep bringing back guys from past event and guys that work on the show??? If my count is right Nate has been on 2 times once with a bike and once with the regal. Just curious ... What up with that????

http://www.dirtymonkey.org/files/nissan%20skyline%20r33%20service%20manual.pdf

There are 2 pieces there. the piece that is on the head side is the stock rb26 intake. the other bigger peice is a custom intake plenum. it is basically a modified stock plenum.

Yep not sure its so super secret anymore but yea thats all that i did. I just did what was post here in this thread. pasted froma zeroyon.com thread "The Cooling mod was kind of difficult. I completely destroyed 3 intake Manifolds trying to figure out which sizes to use and whether or not to abandon my idea of not welding the AN fittings in and simply tapping the manifold. I ended up tapping the manifold successfully. The Parts List was as follows: 6X1/4 NPT Hex Plugs 3X 1/4 NPT - AN-8Earls male fittings Teflon Tape Remove the upper part of the intake manifold (5 allen Keys) and you will see this in between each set of throttles. Next, drill out the water passage (small one that is kind of off center in the middle). I used an 8mm bit and a press. You will need to go to about 14mm for the tap to work, but do that afterwards. Once you are ready to drill the holes for your tap mark the bit at 18mm depth and do not go any deeper or you will end up joining the water passage and center bolt hole. Drill and Tap them. Next are the Air Holes, drill these to about 15-18mm depth and then tap the holes for your hex head plugs. There should be 2 airholes leading into the intake runners for each set of throttles (they are the bigger holes to the left and right of the water hole). Once you have tapped them clean it all up and put your fittings in. After this is done you need to construct a tank with 3 AN-8 fittings going in a vertical and a pressure Cap. You will also need a large return line to go to your radiator. The picture below is one that I saw on a Techno car about 2 or 3 years ago. I just learned what this was and how to do it in recent months and decided to try it out (Look to the left of the surge tank and you will see a breather tank (for lack of a better word) that has an extra radiator hose coming out, this is what I am referring to. This modification helps coolant to get cooled faster as well as elminate cavitation. There are better ways to say all of this but it is getting late." If you would like to see the pics in the how to here's the link http://www.zeroyon.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7516&hl=coolant

With the exception of hose and final cleaning and assembly the coolant mod is pretty much done. I also have some more chrome grinding to do.... that ♥♥♥♥ sucks!!!!!! Never chrome aluminum!!!!!!

The formula is ring teeth divided by pinion teeth. 39/11= 3.54

The rear 1/4 will not fit they are way different.

Since we are all talking about big turbos!!!!!! let me wipe mine out :>

I bought a set of these struts!!!!! When the spacer is removed its the same length as the stock fronts. All it is is a front insert with spacers so it will fit the rear. .... Atleast the ones i received. The spacer is a slip fit and pulls right off.

HMMMMMM.... not sure what you just said BUT>>>>> Those are modified stock struts. you cant just go buy those and put them in. You have to get a coilover kit, camber plates, shorter strut inserts. Then you have to install the weld in camber plates, modify the struts to accept the coilover kit, then section( cut and make shorter) the strut housings and install the inserts. then you are ready to install.

Oh yea back to my original question. anyone have any doors that are made allready that maybe need some repair work they want to get rid of???? also looking for fenders and a hatch. I know they are available at retailers... im more looking for cheapo used stuff that people want to get rid of.

Ok for me gelcoat not necessary. just something with a finish that requires little prep for paint. thick enough so it dosnt tin can, and has metal reinforcements embeded in the FRP for mounting the hinges and other stuff that would crack the fiberglass if it wasnt reinforced. I would also be interested in a hatch. The hatch just needs to be able to be pined on. No lexan installed. BUT before we get too worked up about another person that can make doors out of frp what price range are we talking about????? Very Interested at this point!!!!!

Kinda looks the same http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1439

Those doors are so expensive because they need virtually no prep work. If i remember correctly they are gell coated and basically just need scuffed and painted. all mounting points have reinforced stuff built in. very hi quaility. but at 1200 ea... im not interested in being that lite in the pockets. I will do something myself.

I like the idea of door skins. I want to keep my original doors intact. I could get a spare set of doors and deskin and cut out all the internal stuff not needed, just keep minimal bracing stuff to keep the door rigid. It wont be as lite as a set of frp doors but they sure as hell would be lighter then the stock doors.

reduce weight.....if you have never lifted a Z door its heavy as ♥♥♥♥!!!!