DaleMX

I went with a billet regulator from LS1Speed and placed it on the fuel rail. All the fitting for it were 3/8 pipe and I believe the regulator had 3an or 4an and I had to get Earls mega expensive stuff to adapt it all. Did a little google search and came up with the following. http://www.metco-inc.com/fuel/fuelreg.shtml http://www.lmperformance.com/2568/2.html http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/fuel_components.htm http://www.fastpts.com/cgi-bin/hazel-cgi/hazel.cgi?action=serve&item=aeroinjreg.html

Actually the LS6 block had areas opened up in it to improve high rpm breathing thus actually making the block weaker (but you'll never tell the difference). The LS1 block is stronger and prefered. In 2001 the heads were a little different and flow better. All in all there is really not a whole lot of difference in the performance potential between the years. Just get out your wallet and you can make a strong powerfull setup with any of them. The weak point is in the rod bolts. Upgrade to ARP's, get a set of AFR 205's (heads) and the matching cam, go for a Fast 90mm intake and throtle body and spin to 7000 and make over 450 RWHP. I think that Tony from AFR got about 475 RWHP with his setup.

Alot of the LS1 guys have switched to HPTuners. http://www.hptuners.com/ It doesn't lock to the VIN either, just the year of the car. I had LS1 edit and it's damn expensive to use. Everytime you want to add a car you gotta pay. No more for me, if I get another LS1 I'll go HP.

The LT1 and the LS1 have a different pattern. The LS1 is equal spaced like a Ford or a BBC.

FWIW, kill doesn't count unless it's got a time slip.

Grumpys life size replica of the Taj Mahal! Can I come to your house and play? I bet you can wait! I would be numbering the blocks and sanding them them smooth!

Here's a pic of a JTR radiator and a Taurus fan. http://www.circuitflex.com/JTRTaurus.jpg

When I got mine from Modern Motorsports Ross recomended 175 for the front and 225 for the rear and Ilumina's. Car is for street use on good condition roads and the 225 in the rear is to help with squat.

"Could a bore gauge help to reveal this condition prior to final assembly?" Not without the torque plates in place.

Bartman, Longtube headers will have a greater low RPM torque increase as compared to blockhuggers. I think the LT1's like 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 max tubes with 3" collectors. Adjusting the length of the collector will also change the curve. Stepped headers ( 1 3/4 start to 1 7/8 end) dumping to a 3" collector have been very succesfull on the LS1 stuff. Visit "Headers by Ed" web sit for some good header info. Personally on my LS1 I have chosen to to with 2 1/2" duals thru an X pipe going to Sweet thunder mufflers and dumping before the axle. I am going to try to get as much pipe into the tunnel as possible for ground clearance. The Sweet thunders are only 3" total in diamater (kinda loud though!).

Very nice, I bought a tank from a 2002 SS and plan on putting it in next year or maybe sooner if true duals out the back become a priority. I'll follow your lead on this.

You did a nice job on the LED's and the shrink wrap is a super idea too! When I get mine apart next year I'll follow your example for the high beam and brake. The gauges really do fit perfect into the bezels!

Good idea, when I have it out to do the dashcap and steering wheel I'll paint the LED's. Yea that is an ugly dash and wheel!

I didn't think it was either, but the back by the oil pressure sender is a little higher than the LS1. I have both. I did the original sender install with the LS1 in place then put the LS6 on and realized it was a tad higher by the sender and had to shim it to make it seal up. I thought the only difference was that the floor of the plentum was dropped but the back is slightly different too. If my memory serves me correct it worked out to about .1 higher.

Yes that is the Datsun sending unit. I mounted it up top where the stock LS1 unit is with an adaptor. I had to space the sender with a nylon spacer to get it tight without interference on the LS6 intake. The LS1 intake fit with no problems, but the LS6 was a little tighter.

It's easy, Just cut off the boss with a hacksaw blade. One more link. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98191

I have tried Mac's, Pacesetters, LS6's, and the custom 1 3/4" block huggers. The only fit is the block huggers. I believe that long tube or mid length headers could be made, but nothing that is out there now will fit, except the customs. I bought 10' of the flexible 1 3/4" exhaust pipe to see if I could sort out a design. Maybe when the car runs I'll get the urge. Edit: Here's a link from when I was trying to fit the Mac's. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97147

Yea, for whatever reason camera shots just dont look right. The gauges are laid back a hair from stock position but the numbers and overall format is bigger. They are very easy to read from the drivers seat.

Here's what I have done for my T56. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96953

Here's a pic. The wires are fugged up at the connector, some broken. http://www.circuitflex.com/Computer2.jpg

I just extended the reset shaft with 1/8" dia aluminum tubing. I attached the aluminum with some heatshrink tubing. The trick is to drill the hole in the plastic bezel in the right place. I did that by putting the gauge into the bezel (with the aluminum tube attached) about 1/4 of the way in then marking the spot to drill. Drilled a 5/32 hole and the rest is history.

I've got a dammaged one if your intrested. I think all the connectors are ok, but the wires got pulled a little when the junk yard monkeys took it out.

Thanks guys, it really wasn't hard at all. I just removed the stock autometer bezels and pulled out the guts. Then the plastic housing that the gauge is mounted in fit pefectly into the stock bezel. I taped the outside of the housing with electrical tape to make sure it didn't move. I used green led's for the turn signals, but left the brake and highbeam indicators out. There was room in the tach for the highbeam and I will put that in if it ends up bothering me. Here's a link with some different pics. I have more details and pics that I can post later. I got the gauges from Jegs. They are expensive and you really think twice about prying off the housing with a screwdriver! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97874

Yes Speartech lenghtened the harness. If it was about 6" longer it would have fit under the passenger seat. I thought I would have had the engine in by now but I want to take care of all the little details while the engine is out. But I can hear it running in my mind's ear and see myself driving it everyday. Soon.

I finally finished putting my Pro Comps into the stock bezels. Here's a pic. http://www.circuitflex.com/ProCompsIn.jpg Check it out, 1 mile on the od!