Well it looked like the dry sump would over double the entry fee on the swap. V-12's look great, and for now 300hp sounded easy out of one and should be enough.
What ever route I go, planning first is rather important to make it to the end.
Is there a cheaper solution to the oil sump/pump problems with this swap? All I could find was the dry sump option. Although nice, it's kinda out of my price range I think. It would be in an S130 if that makes much difference. Still kinda dreaming, for now..
If you don't deal with snow, I'ld skip the awd - gas hit. My legacy runs 20-22 in the city in the winter, and I'll never see 30 ever. You need alot more HP to need the awd in dry conditions, it's not worth it for a DD IMHO.
WizardBlack, it's to cold here for me to measure, would you mind posting how much of the EJ engines hang in front of the axles? Just for curiosity, how far out front would it hang in a Z....
I don't know your local laws, here in Mn, to repair it the MUST replace the airbags. But that is a state law. Normally around 75% damage is totaled I thought.
I don't remember exactly, but I seem to recall Norm built his with stock pistons that he "shaved" down. If it's not here, I know i's in the zcar archives.
I see, well the sube is prob'ly a little small. My '97 legacy has 6ft from tailgate to the back of the front seats. Maybe the baja's could fit longer? I really don't remember, the Impreza, Forester are a foot shorter.
From this
http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/product.asp?ProdID=1162
that one sounds too small and prob'ly running pretty hard. I see one of their upgrade kits for the Lightnings uses a 3.4L.
I'm trying to boy-cott both until they get rid of the DRM "stuff" and agree to a single format. Sadly I see this going the way of the dvd-+rw. Dual format being the standard.
I'm waiting.
Heh, 1080p, I out grew that w/ my 15" monitor
I think tyson is on the money. I have yet to see the internet use up even a "b" wifi for speed. But the pre-"N" will give you alot better range and signal strength. Maximum PC had a review on some of the "routers".
Good point, there is a temperature switch in the engine bay if i remember, that turns the system off. That's was to help the engine come up to temp first, before the heater can turn on.
Huh, maybe I should check up on this more
True. I was vague in my post. But I hope most people got the point that shock loads from a clutch drop is different than a slow build up. Say driving up an increasing grade road? better